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Old Jul 5, 2020 | 09:42 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by matthewq4b
Post us some pic's of the connectors so we are not guessing as to what you actually need.
No one makes a true green module they are standard DSII Bule modules that have been rewired.

OK i will get a whole set of pics tomorrow
 
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Old Jul 6, 2020 | 12:22 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by F1001975
OK i will get a whole set of pics tomorrow
Excellent, then we can make sure you get the right stuff instead of playing parts roulette.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2020 | 09:10 PM
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Pics




Connections from ICU with a black grommet
 
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Old Jul 6, 2020 | 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by F1001975
Pics




Connections from ICU with a black grommet

Yup not correct. That orientation on the power plug is the Green Module. The Black module has the location tabs clocked 90° from yours on the 3 pin plug.
Also the wiring colours on the 3 pin plug are not correct for the Black module. The Black module uses the following colour wires in the 3 pin plug Blue (Coil Power Run) Black (System Ground) Green (Coil Negative)

That is a Green module. The 3 pin plug on the Green module are Blue (Coil Power Run) Red (Bat Power Run) White (Bat Power Start)

No replacement Green or Black module will be a true Green or Black module they are rewired DS II (blue) modules.

Your truck uses the Green Module.

Now the question is how do you truck get a Green module with Black strain relief. Now, some of this is conjecture as your factory module predates my time with Ford, but all the Factory replacements when I was there were all colour coded properly.
I suspect that in 75 when SSI's wiring configuration was reconfigured to put all the power leads in the same plug Ford never bothered to change the colour of the strain relief and just continued to use black.
I suspect that colour coding was first done when DS II was introduced in 76 as it would make identification much easier. In 3 years they used 3 different modules and it would be a pain for the average parts guy or tech if you had to check the part numbers in the book to tell them apart. Colour coding the strain reliefs makes it a quick glance to identify them.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2020 | 09:45 PM
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How's about a close-up pic of the strain-relief? Maybe the black is really a discolored green? Or not, but it would still be good to see next time you're under the hood with your camera.

Paul
 
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Old Jul 8, 2020 | 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 1TonBasecamp
How's about a close-up pic of the strain-relief? Maybe the black is really a discolored green? Or not, but it would still be good to see next time you're under the hood with your camera.

Paul

Ok, I will do that.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2020 | 09:56 PM
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I think I needa new voltage regulator.
I'm getting 16.5 volts at the battery.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2020 | 02:02 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by F1001975
I think I needa new voltage regulator.
I'm getting 16.5 volts at the battery.

Ya time for a new regulator lol. Don't mess around with aftermarket ones, Just get a Motorcraft PT# GR540B
 
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Old Jul 9, 2020 | 04:42 PM
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And if for some reason that does not fix the issue, verify voltages at the wires and their condition. A low voltage reading on the Yellow sensing wire might be telling the alternator that it's not charging the battery.
I think that's the only wire that matters in a situation like this, since the Orange field wire not having a good connection would probably give the opposite problem.

You should see full battery voltage on the Yellow wire where it connects to the regulator. Anything less is not good. I'm sure there is some leeway, but really with that wire being spliced to the Black wire from the starter relay and the battery being right there, you should not see a voltage drop.

It's way more likely to be the regulator than the wire. But I thought I'd throw that out there just in case.

Paul
 
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Old Jul 9, 2020 | 05:53 PM
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Strain relief color

numbers


 
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Old Jul 9, 2020 | 09:15 PM
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Thanks. Looks like a black strain relief to me too. But along the lines of what Matthew was saying, along with the fact that yours has the green orientation, the "D5AE" pretty much tells the tale as to what it was expected to fit. A '75 dated vehicle.
Looks in pretty good shape if it's an older unit. If it's original then it's in great shape!

Thanks for the additional pics. Now I'll have to go back and look for my pics of an NOS green module to see if I was smart enough to get a shot of the connectors.
But probably not...

Paul
 
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Old Jul 10, 2020 | 07:36 AM
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https://www.fordmuscleforums.com/thr...xperts.512624/

Z
 
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Old Jul 10, 2020 | 08:13 AM
  #58  
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The green modules I have seen only had the red an white wire an no blue an also saw this setup
s




, I think yours may be an early black before the cross over to green , but unsure as yours D5AE-12A199-A2A and it is a 7 wire. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...390-truck.html
 
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Old Jul 10, 2020 | 11:03 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by 1TonBasecamp
Thanks. Looks like a black strain relief to me too. But along the lines of what Matthew was saying, along with the fact that yours has the green orientation, the "D5AE" pretty much tells the tale as to what it was expected to fit. A '75 dated vehicle.
Looks in pretty good shape if it's an older unit. If it's original then it's in great shape!

Thanks for the additional pics. Now I'll have to go back and look for my pics of an NOS green module to see if I was smart enough to get a shot of the connectors.
But probably not...

Paul
You can not trust the engineering numbers on ignition modules as they were changed multiple times almost every year until the mid 80's as internal components were changed and improvements made. Even the current Motorcraft unit carries a 2001 date part number, a decade later than their last auto use, even after they quit being used they were being updated and the engineering number changed.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2020 | 08:26 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by matthewq4b
Ya time for a new regulator lol. Don't mess around with aftermarket ones, Just get a Motorcraft PT# GR540B
Ok, I got that regulator and installed it tonight.

here is what happens.

at warm idle.
voltage at battery, 14.25 all accessories off....
with the lights on, they flicker ever so slightly, so i took some readings.

lights and heater blower on, 13.5 steady NO FLICKER AT ALL.
lights on, blower off 14.80-15.20 Flickers
blower on, lights off 14.80-15.20 Flickers

Volt meter on dash bounces.



 
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