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Old May 25, 2020 | 07:52 PM
  #31  
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matthewq4b
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Originally Posted by F1001975
okay at first I was getting a no-start issue then during all this disconnecting wiring and everything I got a no crank issue but I rechecked all my connections and that it seemed is going away.
So it cranks fine now.

as for the continuity you want me to do a test between the distributor housing and the plug what plug exactly are you talking about?

The three-prong plug that was already posted. see below. And circled on the Schematic see below that. The black wire is the ground between the module and the ground. If this is ground is open the module may fail to function.

If you do NOT have continuity between the Plug and the Dist housing. Pull the dist cap and test directly to the wire's mounitng terminal See 3rd below pic . If still no continuity repair the circuit.

if you have continuity between the Dist housing and the plug Check for continuity between the dist housing and chassis or bat ground. If no continuity Remove dist clean mounting surfaces and reinstall and retest. If you have continuity first test may have been faulty/done incorrectly.







 
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Old May 25, 2020 | 08:06 PM
  #32  
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From: SWPA
Originally Posted by matthewq4b
The three-prong plug that was already posted. see below. And circled on the Schematic see below that. The black wire is the ground between the module and the ground. If this is ground is open the module may fail to function.

If you do NOT have continuity between the Plug and the Dist housing. Pull the dist cap and test directly to the wire's mounitng terminal See 3rd below pic . If still no continuity repair the circuit.

if you have continuity between the Dist housing and the plug Check for continuity between the dist housing and chassis or bat ground. If no continuity Remove dist clean mounting surfaces and reinstall and retest. If you have continuity first test may have been faulty/done incorrectly.




thanks for helping me.

as for the continuity I checked between the black plug slot and dist housing and I do not get 0.

I didnt do the other tests yet. I'll have to do that after work tomorrow.

Thanks again.
 
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Old May 25, 2020 | 10:36 PM
  #33  
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matthewq4b
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From: St Albert, Alberta
Originally Posted by F1001975
thanks for helping me.

as for the continuity I checked between the black plug slot and dist housing and I do not get 0.

I didnt do the other tests yet. I'll have to do that after work tomorrow.

Thanks again.

Well did not think you would get zero but it should be close. You can also test the black between the female plug at the module and the female plug at the dist. Both circled below. This will rule out the ground being an issue in the harness.



 
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Old May 26, 2020 | 06:23 PM
  #34  
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From: SWPA
Originally Posted by matthewq4b
Well did not think you would get zero but it should be close. You can also test the black between the female plug at the module and the female plug at the dist. Both circled below. This will rule out the ground being an issue in the harness.



the continuity reading for all of the tests is 006
 
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Old May 26, 2020 | 06:26 PM
  #35  
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From: SWPA
Originally Posted by matthewq4b
Well did not think you would get zero but it should be close. You can also test the black between the female plug at the module and the female plug at the dist. Both circled below. This will rule out the ground being an issue in the harness.




the continuity reading for the between female black and the dist female black is 0.
between the dist and battery ground is 0

All the other tests is 006
 
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Old May 26, 2020 | 07:13 PM
  #36  
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From: SWPA
Well I learned a lot in this thread and I want to thank all you guys for helping me ......most important thing I learned is to pull all the wire loom off and check all the connections before you assume something else is broken.

I found a crimp wire connection between the three prong plug that goes to the ignition and the distributor the spice was pulled apart.

as for fuel when I got it the first thing I did was put 15 gallons of pure unleaded without any ethanol in it because I have access to that for the same price as normal unleaded at the pump so I'm lucky in that regard.

I'll keep you guys posted
 
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Old May 26, 2020 | 08:42 PM
  #37  
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Nice fix! Something so easy to fix can be so hard to find...
 
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Old May 26, 2020 | 08:49 PM
  #38  
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From: SWPA
I'm still planning on changing the ignition switch,
I'd like to try to find another ignition module and coil before this one goes bad because according to everything I read those are pretty common failure items.

does anyone know the part number for the ignition module that I need and the coil that I need?
 
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Old May 26, 2020 | 10:52 PM
  #39  
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matthewq4b
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From: St Albert, Alberta
Originally Posted by F1001975
Well I learned a lot in this thread and I want to thank all you guys for helping me ......most important thing I learned is to pull all the wire loom off and check all the connections before you assume something else is broken.

I found a crimp wire connection between the three prong plug that goes to the ignition and the distributor the spice was pulled apart.

as for fuel when I got it the first thing I did was put 15 gallons of pure unleaded without any ethanol in it because I have access to that for the same price as normal unleaded at the pump so I'm lucky in that regard.

I'll keep you guys posted

Yup electrical can drive you bat*****. But if you follow logical methodical diagnostic it is actually quite simple. it would have been a simple process of elimination ringing the wires out to verify they are all good.
Now get rid of the crimp and solder and heat shrink the splice and it will be a permanent fix that will never ever fail again...

Glad you found the fault.

As for the module

Plug and play.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=2231&jsn=2231
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...20060&jsn=2232

Coil
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...tion+coil,7060 Pick your poison.


 
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Old May 27, 2020 | 01:27 PM
  #40  
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And keep your old module if it's still good.
 
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Old May 27, 2020 | 07:53 PM
  #41  
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From: SWPA
Originally Posted by matthewq4b
Yup electrical can drive you bat*****. But if you follow logical methodical diagnostic it is actually quite simple. it would have been a simple process of elimination ringing the wires out to verify they are all good.
Now get rid of the crimp and solder and heat shrink the splice and it will be a permanent fix that will never ever fail again...

Glad you found the fault.

As for the module

Plug and play.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=2231&jsn=2231
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...20060&jsn=2232

Coil
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...tion+coil,7060 Pick your poison.

Thank you so much for the links. which of those products would you choose. Price is no big deal.
 
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Old May 27, 2020 | 08:56 PM
  #42  
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From: St Albert, Alberta
Originally Posted by F1001975
Thank you so much for the links. which of those products would you choose. Price is no big deal.
WVE over Standard for modules WVE (Wells) is/was an OEM of these units.

Coil pick your poison. Personally I'd opt for the Standard.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2020 | 05:33 PM
  #43  
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From: SWPA
For any of you that are following along in the thread...
I ended up getting a new coil, starter relay and a few non-related to this problem items and installed them.

I did buy a ignition module. I bought the one with the black grommet, like the one in the truck.
According to this, Ignition modules, 74 (black grommet) and 75 (green grommet) are year specific and will not interchange.
Ignition modules: 1974 is 1974 ONLY / 1975 is 1975 ONLY.


My truck is supposed to be a 1975 according to the title and door plate. So anyway, I get the black one.( 74 style) I tried to install it this weekend and the connectors wont work. The clips are 90degrees off.

My question is this... I looked at the green grommet ones and those connectors look like they will fit. I wish I would have noticed the difference before, but I didn't. will the green grommet ones work even though mine is black ?
 
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Old Jul 5, 2020 | 07:35 PM
  #44  
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lasermike
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From: Des Moines, Washington
So my truck is titled as a 1974, it was built in 1974 and has the 1975 ignition. I’ve mis bought the ‘74 module twice now. Very annoying.

I don’t think a PO changed it for the ‘75 module, all of the wiring looks factory.

Michael
 
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Old Jul 5, 2020 | 08:03 PM
  #45  
matthewq4b's Avatar
matthewq4b
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From: St Albert, Alberta
Originally Posted by F1001975
For any of you that are following along in the thread...
I ended up getting a new coil, starter relay and a few non-related to this problem items and installed them.

I did buy a ignition module. I bought the one with the black grommet, like the one in the truck.
According to this, Ignition modules, 74 (black grommet) and 75 (green grommet) are year specific and will not interchange.
Ignition modules: 1974 is 1974 ONLY / 1975 is 1975 ONLY.


My truck is supposed to be a 1975 according to the title and door plate. So anyway, I get the black one.( 74 style) I tried to install it this weekend and the connectors wont work. The clips are 90degrees off.

My question is this... I looked at the green grommet ones and those connectors look like they will fit. I wish I would have noticed the difference before, but I didn't. will the green grommet ones work even though mine is black ?

Post us some pic's of the connectors so we are not guessing as to what you actually need.
No one makes a true green module they are standard DSII Bule modules that have been rewired.
 
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