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Where were you grounding for the first test? And what are your readings at the battery during the same times?
Your voltage readings are all over the place, which I would think means there is a wiring issue more than a component issue. But I'm not good on electrical theory stuff like the others are, so wait for cooler minds to prevail.
But 11.3 initially is maybe ok for the resistor wire (it has to heat up sometimes before it settles down to it's low voltage reading) but it's too low for the battery if that's what you're reading. If the engine turns over quickly with the starter though, the battery and cables seem to be good.
The 8.1 at START seems off too, since it should go UP during start. That's why I asked about what your battery is reading while the starter is cranking.
When I did the first test I just put my probes directly into the slots I put the red wire Into the Blue slot and I put the black wire into the black slot.
on my second test the one with the higher numbers I put the red one Into the Blue slot and I put the black one on the chassis.
Well bummer. But at least that's not part of a no-spark problem.
Either the cables are getting old, the battery is going dead (in spite of a 12v reading), the starter relay is going bad (very common) or the starter itself is getting old.
Many new parts get old before their time nowadays, due to poor quality.
The only other thing that I can think of that might be related to the two things together, would be if the ignition advance was suddenly so far advanced that the starter was having a hard time turning the engine over. But that's usually noticeable when cold, because you'll at least hear the starter try to crank the engine before you hear the clicking.
By the way, is it just a single click at the relay? Or are you getting the multiple fast machine-gun clicks?
Here's another weird one and I'm wondering if the ignition switch has something to do with it I just noticed now that even if you turn it off and pull the key out the low fuel economy light stays on ....don't mind the alternator gauge is never moves from where it is.
When I ground to the chassis I get
11.3 at run
8.1 at start
Coil
1.7 primary on the 200.
nothing secondary on 200
8.7 secondary if I use the 20k scale
Ok lets be clear here. You are having a No start issue NOT a NO crank issue. Correct ?
As for your tests The blue should be tested to chassis ground or Bat Negative. NOT the ground in the plug.
But you seem to have a ground issue in the harness. The Black is the ground for the module and it grounds in the Dist. So do a continuity test between the Dist housing and the plug. You may need to fix that ground Lose that ground and the module may quit working.
Looks like you are getting the correct voltage on the blue wire though.
And since you are getting other issues that would be related to an ignition switch issue, I would suggest you fix that first. Likely the switch is toast. Not an uncommon. thing. You will need to pull the tumbler from the switch when you replace it. They are not expensive so I would go that route. They are available from multiple sources
Ok lets be clear here. You are having a No start issue NOT a NO crank issue. Correct ?
As for your tests The blue should be tested to chassis ground or Bat Negative. NOT the ground in the plug.
But you seem to have a ground issue in the harness. The Black is the ground for the module and it grounds in the Dist. So do a continuity test between the Dist housing and the plug. You may need to fix that ground Lose that ground and the module may quit working.
Looks like you are getting the correct voltage on the blue wire though.
And since you are getting other issues that would be related to an ignition switch issue, I would suggest you fix that first. Likely the switch is toast. Not an uncommon. thing. You will need to pull the tumbler from the switch when you replace it. They are not expensive so I would go that route. They are available from multiple sources
okay at first I was getting a no-start issue then during all this disconnecting wiring and everything I got a no crank issue but I rechecked all my connections and that it seemed is going away.
So it cranks fine now.
as for the continuity I checked between the black plug slot and dist housing and I do not get 0..
