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We have a 2017 Primetime Crusader 295 RST. I partially filled the potable tank before we left home. We’re camped in a park that has water & elec hook ups. The potable water tank is now overflowing through the potable water fill.
Any thoughts on where to start looking for the problem?
a lot of the newer rv's have a service center with the hose inlets and the valves for the tanks. Might also bee two valves that are labeled for you to turn them to certain positions based upon whether to feed from the city hook up or tank.
Suggest for now to unhook the fresh water and turn the water pump on and use the tank water until you figure the routing.
Alternatively (if that doesn't fix it) you may have this problem (as I once did - and common enough that many carry a spare); a failed Anderson KantLeak valve.
Rather than a long winded poor explanation here's an 8 min. video of the symptoms - but with a different solution:
I had a similar problem and diagnosed the valve in the 12v pump was allowing water through it backward when on city hookup and filling the potable water tank. Instead of repairing the valve in the pump, which I found out was prone to failure. I went to Home Depot and bought a PEX one way valve for a couple of dollars.
I installed the PEX one way valve 6" from the 12v pump on the line headed to the potable water tank. Works like a charm and was a cheap and reliable fix.
I know my pump only allows flow to go one way, but I think there is also a second valve in the system. Maybe that valve only works to cut off flow from the pump side to the "city water" side.
I know my pump only allows flow to go one way, but I think there is also a second valve in the system. Maybe that valve only works to cut off flow from the pump side to the "city water" side.
There is a one way valve internal to the pump that can/does fail. If/when it fails, the water plumbed in from the city connection which is now pressurizing the RV water lines will back feed the fresh potable water tank through the failed internal pump valve.
I have had several trailers and this was the first time I have experienced this failure.
So, yes your pump currently only allows flow one way, but that is due to the internal one way valve which can/does fail. This valve is serviceable, but the PEX or plumbing valves available are cheaper and more reliable. They perform the same function, just external to the pump.
Does that make sense or should I try to say it another way?
No, I'm not disagreeing with you. I think my system may already have a second valve, but not in the manner you're talking about. I think my valve prevents the water pump from pushing water (from the freshwater tank( back out the city water port. A third valve that makes the valve in the pump redundant (a backup valve) could be appropriate. Unfortunately, in my system, I don't have room. My water cabinet is inside one of the kitchen cabinets and it's a PITA to get stuff in or out, let alone work in there.
No, I'm not disagreeing with you. I think my system may already have a second valve, but not in the manner you're talking about. I think my valve prevents the water pump from pushing water (from the freshwater tank( back out the city water port. A third valve that makes the valve in the pump redundant (a backup valve) could be appropriate. Unfortunately, in my system, I don't have room. My water cabinet is inside one of the kitchen cabinets and it's a PITA to get stuff in or out, let alone work in there.
I misread your earlier post and agree with your latest post that there is another one way valve in the system to stop the 12v pump from pushing water out the city connection.
One way valve between tank and pump is most often built in to the pump. As was said above, you could just add a one way valve there instead of replacing the pump.
I'm a bit of a pessimist when it comes to maintenance. If the one way valve in the pump has failed, how much longer until something else in the pump fails?
Well, the one way valve in the pump is usually a cheap piece of plastic with an o-ring/rubber washer that dries out, becomes lined with sediment or debris and fails. Just like anything else on these rigs, it can last for years or months.
Mine failed and I opted to install a household type one way valve between the pump and the fresh potable water tank. It is a valve like below and is very reliable especially when compared to the POS valve in the 12v pump. The check valve/one way valve in the pump really has nothing to do with the motor or the ability for it to pump water into the RV from the fresh potable water tank. Replacing the pump because the one way valve failed is like buying a new 2020 6.7L because your current 2017 6.7L needs new tires.
Maintenance is key, just like everything else, but sometimes there are ways around failed parts to make them more reliable and efficient.
Maintenance and knowledge are both helpful. The prior owner(s) of my trailer didn't have the sediment filter inline before the pump. When I replaced the pump last year, the filter screen was added.
