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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Speedometer Cable

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Old May 23, 2020 | 01:15 PM
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Speedometer Cable

Does the Speedometer cable disconnect from this end? How? I removed the two screws.

 
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Old May 23, 2020 | 02:02 PM
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that cream colored plastic piece twists and pulls straight off. It stays connected to the cable end. In fact, I have an extra speedometer, so here is a photo of what it looks like without the cable attached:
 
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Old May 23, 2020 | 02:20 PM
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Thanks! And a shot of the cable.

 
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Old May 23, 2020 | 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by diggerrigger
Does the Speedometer cable disconnect from this end?
You have to push the white collar to the side. Here's a quick video showing the trick. This is a on car, but the principle is the same:



 

Last edited by kr98664; Jun 4, 2024 at 07:41 AM. Reason: Updated video link
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Old May 23, 2020 | 02:29 PM
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Np. Just curious, what are you doing that lead to pulling the cluster out?
 
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Old May 23, 2020 | 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by dagwood57107
Np. Just curious, what are you doing that lead to pulling the cluster out?
Several things. I'm painting the dash. Changing from blue to gray. Thought two light bulbs were burnt out but that was not the case. The bulbs, including those which were still lit but dim, and their sockets just needed to be cleaned up. Testing across the bulbs by probing the printed circuit showed all had significant resistance .5 to 1 ohm. After the cleanup, all jumped quickly to zero. I cleaned up the main plug and socket too. I expect to have more light when reinstalled. Since it's out, I'll probably get the $ paint for the guage needles which are faded.

Also. A shot of the action when disengaging the catch on the cable.


 
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Old May 24, 2020 | 12:28 AM
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Nice! When I had mine out, I ordered some cheap LED's for the cluster, and left the "green" domes in, the color changed to a teal afterwards, but all are much brighter and use fewer watts than the original incadesents. If you leave the domes out, white lights are pretty bright too. If you want to keep the color green, just order green led's. When you do all of them (including the cig lighter and temp control lights, the lights only dim about half way. I only did ones in the cluster and the remaining incadesents provided enough voltage resistance to allow full dimming. I think it was like $10 for about 25 of them. I bought a whole cluster on ebay for about $85 and swapped in a factory tachometer. I also spent $15 on rocketmans WEBSITE and upgraded my ammeter to a voltmeter. Normally its $45 to send him yours and he sends you a converted one back. I ended up sending him 2 and got 1 back which is why he cut me a deal. (sent him my original and the one from the purchased cluster). Wiring for the tach and voltmeter were super easy. Just suggestions for your project! (and yes, my truck only has 41,925 miles on it)
 
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Old May 24, 2020 | 06:42 AM
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I also did the LED's for the main gauge cluster but I went with green.
The color is really close to the factory color to match the HVAC, radio & lights / wiper factory color lights but not so bright I need to dim them.

The only thing I will say is I used Testors fluorescent model paint on the gauge needled, they look great in day light but are hard to see in the dark.
I was told its because the paint was not fluorescent type but only by name.

The other day the right turn indicator light stopped working so need to look into that but hate to pull the gauge bezel for fear of cracking it.
Dave ----
 
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Old May 24, 2020 | 02:02 PM
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yeah, one of my bulbs isnt working in the top left corner by the speedometer, was like that since I reinstalled it, didnt feel like going through the hassle of taking it all back out for one bulb when its bright enough to see
 
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Old Jun 3, 2024 | 02:02 PM
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Wrong thread
 
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