First Truck, Help please!
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 331
Likes: 9
not at all. I would have run that before rebuilding the carb. Well, I did in my truck which sat for about 15 years. Ended up not needing to rebuild it or replace it at all. Just seafoam and runs like new (w plugs, wires, cap, rotor etc) just follow the instructions. I got the one that mixes with fuel in gas tank.
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Freshman User
Joined: May 2020
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I'm gonna scream. I left the truck to sit for a week while I wasn't around, and now it won't start. It gets just a teeeeeeeny bit, just enough to make you think it's gonna start, then it just stops. I don't even know what to say. I'm gonna get a new carb or have a friend of my dads rebuild my old one. I'm sick of it. I had it sitting there and idling last week. This week, nothing. ARRRRRRRGH
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 7,182
Likes: 1,174
Does the starter engage normally and spin the crankshaft at the normal cranking speed? If not, please charge the battery and then retest.
Please ignore the fact that your truck seemed to run okay last week. As long as your starting cranking speed is normal, your next task is to troubleshoot the present no-start condition right in front of you. Is this a fuel or ignition problem?
This would be a perfect example to try a burst of starting fluid for troubleshooting. A two second burst of starting fluid will help isolate the problem.
If the engine fires right up on starting fluid, then you know the ignition system is good. If it stalls again as soon as the starting fluid is consumed, then you know you've got a fuel delivery problem. If the engine doesn't fire at all, then you know one of two things: Either you're not getting a proper spark (weak or nonexistent), or the plugs are flooded with fuel and can't fire. In that case, pull and inspect them for wetness to be sure before condemning the ignition system.
One warning I must include: starting fluid is great for troubleshooting, but if you don't get any attempt to fire, do NOT keep using more. A single 2 or 3 second burst will tell you everything you need to know. Don't keep spraying and trying, as you could get a serious backfire or worse. Giving away my age here, but it's like Bryl-Cream: A little dab will do ya...
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Freshman User
Joined: May 2020
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Please define "won't start".
Does the starter engage normally and spin the crankshaft at the normal cranking speed? If not, please charge the battery and then retest.
Please ignore the fact that your truck seemed to run okay last week. As long as your starting cranking speed is normal, your next task is to troubleshoot the present no-start condition right in front of you. Is this a fuel or ignition problem?
This would be a perfect example to try a burst of starting fluid for troubleshooting. A two second burst of starting fluid will help isolate the problem.
If the engine fires right up on starting fluid, then you know the ignition system is good. If it stalls again as soon as the starting fluid is consumed, then you know you've got a fuel delivery problem. If the engine doesn't fire at all, then you know one of two things: Either you're not getting a proper spark (weak or nonexistent), or the plugs are flooded with fuel and can't fire. In that case, pull and inspect them for wetness to be sure before condemning the ignition system.
One warning I must include: starting fluid is great for troubleshooting, but if you don't get any attempt to fire, do NOT keep using more. A single 2 or 3 second burst will tell you everything you need to know. Don't keep spraying and trying, as you could get a serious backfire or worse. Giving away my age here, but it's like Bryl-Cream: A little dab will do ya...
Does the starter engage normally and spin the crankshaft at the normal cranking speed? If not, please charge the battery and then retest.
Please ignore the fact that your truck seemed to run okay last week. As long as your starting cranking speed is normal, your next task is to troubleshoot the present no-start condition right in front of you. Is this a fuel or ignition problem?
This would be a perfect example to try a burst of starting fluid for troubleshooting. A two second burst of starting fluid will help isolate the problem.
If the engine fires right up on starting fluid, then you know the ignition system is good. If it stalls again as soon as the starting fluid is consumed, then you know you've got a fuel delivery problem. If the engine doesn't fire at all, then you know one of two things: Either you're not getting a proper spark (weak or nonexistent), or the plugs are flooded with fuel and can't fire. In that case, pull and inspect them for wetness to be sure before condemning the ignition system.
One warning I must include: starting fluid is great for troubleshooting, but if you don't get any attempt to fire, do NOT keep using more. A single 2 or 3 second burst will tell you everything you need to know. Don't keep spraying and trying, as you could get a serious backfire or worse. Giving away my age here, but it's like Bryl-Cream: A little dab will do ya...
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Freshman User
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Hey guys, I know its been a while, Ive been real busy. I have some updates and questions. I had the original carb rebuilt by a friend of my dads, and while that was out, I pulled the clutch and brake pedals out of the truck to replace bushings. Figured since I had some time, might as well. I had to pull the steering column as well to get everything out. Now here's where Im confused. I pulled the clutch and brake assembly out, changed the bushings, and put everything back in, then put the steering column back in. Plugged in the two connectors I pulled apart, and plugged the ignition switch back in. And the truck wont crank over. Wont even try. Battery is fully charged and if you jump the solenoid it cranks fine. When I turn the key on everything works, headlights, radio, etc. But when I try to start it, nothing. Any ideas?
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
Hey guys, I know its been a while, Ive been real busy. I have some updates and questions. I had the original carb rebuilt by a friend of my dads, and while that was out, I pulled the clutch and brake pedals out of the truck to replace bushings. Figured since I had some time, might as well. I had to pull the steering column as well to get everything out. Now here's where Im confused. I pulled the clutch and brake assembly out, changed the bushings, and put everything back in, then put the steering column back in. Plugged in the two connectors I pulled apart, and plugged the ignition switch back in. And the truck wont crank over. Wont even try. Battery is fully charged and if you jump the solenoid it cranks fine. When I turn the key on everything works, headlights, radio, etc. But when I try to start it, nothing. Any ideas?
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Freshman User
Joined: May 2020
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It's a 1986 F150, with the 300 I6, NP435 4 speed, 2 wheel drive. Not sure if any of that at all matters in this scenario, but might as well be specific
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Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2013
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Please define "jump the solenoid".
Do you mean connecting a heavy wire between the two big posts on the starter relay? That tests the starter, battery, and heavy cables. It does not test the starter relay nor the command signal through the ignition switch.
Or do you mean you connected a small wire to supply battery power to the small S terminal on the starter relay? That test everything above plus the starter relay, but still not the command signal.
To test the command signal, hook up a test light or voltmeter to the small wire at the S terminal. Turn the key to start and you should see battery voltage here. With your manual transmission, hold the clutch pedal down to satisfy the clutch safety switch. If still no joy, wiring diagrams are here:
Start & Ignition - Gary's Garagemahal (the Bullnose bible)
Do you mean connecting a heavy wire between the two big posts on the starter relay? That tests the starter, battery, and heavy cables. It does not test the starter relay nor the command signal through the ignition switch.
Or do you mean you connected a small wire to supply battery power to the small S terminal on the starter relay? That test everything above plus the starter relay, but still not the command signal.
To test the command signal, hook up a test light or voltmeter to the small wire at the S terminal. Turn the key to start and you should see battery voltage here. With your manual transmission, hold the clutch pedal down to satisfy the clutch safety switch. If still no joy, wiring diagrams are here:
Start & Ignition - Gary's Garagemahal (the Bullnose bible)
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