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I was going ask how the valves look. One of my 300 heads is thrashed, valve stem on a couple looks mushroomed rockers also show lots of wear.
It does look like your having fun.
If you have rocker and valve wear id suspekt the valves and seats have also seen better days. A full head refresh might be a good thing.
But looking at what I see that motor really needs to be pulled, taken apart for a good cleaning and look over.
I would not put any new parts in a motor that dirty as you are just throwing money down the drain.
The old rockers show wear because of it so how long do you think new parts will last?
You may find the bearing are showing copper but the crank measures fine then throw a set of bearing and rings (after measuring) in it, after a good cleaning, rebuild the head and you have a new motor.
Just my .02
Dave ----
@pmuller Almost went with Schneider 256-2H but now thinking of Howards 205/215 @050. Looked similar to the old Crane 901.
The 300 head has a good flowing exhaust port compared to the intake port so it doesn't need a cam with an exhaust duration that is 10 degrees more than the intake like in the Howards Cam or 12 degrees like in the Crane Cams.
That just adds an unnecessary 5 to 6 degrees of overlap that affects fuel mileage and idle quality.
Stay with the single pattern cams.
The ones with a 112 degree LSA work well for fuel mileage and idle quality.
In 1978 the rocker studs became non-adjustable by going to a smaller 5/16" treaded top section where you ran the nut down till it stopped on the 3/8" stud body.
THANKYOU for that sentence! I installed new rockers, lifters, pushrods, pivots and replaced the nuts on cylinder #6 of my 1979 several months ago. I read to tighten the play out and then go 3/4 to a full turn more to preload the lifter. I only made it 1/3 maybe 1/2 a turn and it was already tightened down to the shoulder on the rocker stud. Wasn't real sure exactly what I did wrong... but from what you're saying... I actually got it correct. I've been wanting to hear this for months now!
Motor mounts were split, transmission mount shot. Pretty much had to pull the trigger and stop the procrastination. Truck still running. Engine still rattling. Never stopped. But.... if your going to change the engine mounts, might as well pull the engine out and replace that leaking oil pan gasket... might as well check the bearings while the engine is out (my truck had the gold bearing option).... three pistons had broken rings... might as well send it to the machine shop.... might as well...
Almost ready to put it back in truck. Zero deck, quick fuel carb, Offy, EFI exhaust, cleaned up head......
Before Zero deck Assembled. Lots of assembly lube. Steel gear.
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