Need a little help. I mentioned this on my Panel build but thought I better try to get the most visibility possible. For those that installed Toyota boxes on you trucks; is the groove in the input shaft marking the center line of the box? It seems with no blind spline on the sector there’s a lot of room for error.

 

I don't recall. When I installed mine in my 49 I ended up with the steering wheel slightly off. I came back after a test drive and moved the pitman arm one notch. Now the wheel was off slightly the other way. came back home, removed the pitman arm and drove it again. Now it was still slightly off the other way. Came back home pull it off, moved it one notch...(anyone see where this is going?)

Yep, back and forth and couldn't get the steering wheel centered. So, that means I had to move the steering column 1 notch on the input shaft. Not so easy as moving the pitman arm. I still don't have it 100% centered, but its close enough for now.

I think I marked the box, ran the box to one side, marked it again, moved it all the way to the other and then tried to split the difference to get centered.

Bobby

 

Thanks Bobby.I guess I was hoping to avoid your scenario. Maybe it’s inevitable.

 

Right?!?!?

In my case Murphy's Law held true....since it was harder to pull the column and move that 1 spline it was inevitable that, that is what I ended up having to do...LOL

 

I just rebuilt the steering box on my Toyota. The output shaft does have a line that is "roughly" center and lines up with the pitman arm. You really need to turn it lock to lock and mark it to be sure. It can be off a spline or two.

 

Thanks Scott!
How did the steering gear rebuild go? Where’d you get your parts? The reason I ask is My input seal looks to be weeping.

What fluid are you using in your power steering? Seems to be some controversy over power steering fluid vs Dextron II.

 

I recently replaced my input seal. I played heck trying to find it. I searched around for a part number and ordered a seal. Naturally it was wrong. But since I had the old seal in my hand I was able to go to a local seal shop and they matched up the numbers. I think it coast $2.

I didn't rebuild the box. I just took the top off the input side and replaced the seal. The top of the box is a 2 piece set up. I wasn't able to get the piece with the seal out by itself (the part with the 2 holes for the spanner) and the whole top came off. When I put it all back together I had too much preload and the box was stiff. If you are going to just try and replace the seal, mark the outer piece so you get it back in the same spot.
I couldn't get the inner seal carrier out because it looks like someone (factory maybe?) had peened the threads.

I'll look and see if I have the part # for the seal. I might have posted it in a thread, I can't remember

 

Bobby's looks like mine, the early IFS box. Yes the input seal can be replaced without removing the box. Yes the seal housing also sets the bearing end play. There is a spec but, I just set it for zero play. I bought an Edelmann 8846 seal kit online. Rock Auto had the best price. Dexron is what they take. PS fluid makes them leak. Confusion is because Toyota put "Power Steering" right on the filler cap. It just means it's the power steering "compartment". When you actually read the cap it says to use Dexron. So does the manual.

You can buy just the input seal. I have to look in my old posts on Marlin Crawler forum. I posted all the numbers and the seal dimensions. There is some wrong information out there so I'll see if I can dig it up.

I rebuilt the box only because I was drilling and tapping it to add power assist cylinder to my truck. Plus it had 460K miles on it. The first time I did one kicked my butt. Getting the piston in without cutting the seal is challenging. Getting all the ***** in was a bear. I finally got that figured out. None of the YouTube tricks seemed to help. If you end up going through the box, PM me and I'll tell you how. Even with all the miles on my box all it really needed was input seals and pitman shaft seal.

The number on the OEM seal is NOK AP8096E. The Toyota number is 90311-19002 The input shaft seal fits both early and late 4X4 IFS boxes. Rock Auto shows the input seal as National or Timken 223400. The dimensions look right.

NOTE: The kit number is for an early IFS box in a 4X4. Mine is a 1988. The later box is different. The input seal I used fit early and late IFS 4X4 boxes.

 

Great info guys! I think I might be the problem with the input seal leaking as not even thinking when I installed it on my truck I bought brand new power steering fluid for it. When I had my old shop, Many Moons Ago, I use to frequently drain power steering units of ATF and refill them with power steering fluid. Remedied many a squealing power steering doing that. But Toyota has other thoughts on that I find.

Scott, I’m going to try to just change the seal. At least for now.

 

My 1988 original box with mega miles looked great when I took it apart. Other than the seal you are going to replace starting to weep. Sounds like it's all your's needs.