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I switched to my front tank and about 10 miles later it spit and sputtered and tried to die before I quickly switched back to my rear tank. I should've known something was off. If I punched it, it would take forever to just build 10 pounds of boost. After I switched to my rear tank, I regained all of my power and it ran fine. The fuel gauge on the front tank reads past full too. What's going on here?
Sound like the switching valve on the frame rail has quit on you. It may be the fuse, but if it is the fuse the gauge would be pegged, on either tank. The good news is that you can get the valve a lot cheaper now. https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Port-Fuel...oAAOSwJtJb77yX
They were about 10 times that amount a couple of years ago.
Sound like the switching valve on the frame rail has quit on you. It may be the fuse, but if it is the fuse the gauge would be pegged, on either tank. The good news is that you can get the valve a lot cheaper now. https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Port-Fuel...oAAOSwJtJb77yX
They were about 10 times that amount a couple of years ago.
Is that a Ford valve? I've heard that the aftermarket ones are garbage.
Is that a Ford valve? I've heard that the aftermarket ones are garbage.
The last ford one I seen was around 300$
I pulled one from a truck being parted out. Although I have read if they sit for awhile without being used they can go bad. Not sure how true that is though.
Sound like the switching valve on the frame rail has quit on you. It may be the fuse, but if it is the fuse the gauge would be pegged, on either tank. The good news is that you can get the valve a lot cheaper now. https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Port-Fuel...oAAOSwJtJb77yX
They were about 10 times that amount a couple of years ago.
I got under my truck and had a buddy hit the switch on the dash back and forth. The valve clicked every time. I also took a test light to the valve harness and only two wires had power, and it was the two wires closest to the front of the truck. The power to these wires were very faint though.
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