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I bought my Forrest River Work & Play 25QB this winter and the dealer winterized it before it was delivered to me. This is the first one I've owned with plumbing. How do I get the winterizing fluid out of the lines?
Those 2 lines look like your low point drains with the sealing caps removed. That would mean that you water system might have been Winterized by just draining the system. Do you have those caps somewhere in the trailer? Your water heater should or could also be bypassed, be sure that it is lined back up correctly before turning it on as running the heating element when empty will burn it out.
Thanks again for the tips...busy today but might get chance tonight. Gonna be a real learning experience towing this for the first time. We're heading out to the Skull Rush 250 off road race in Caliente, NV the weekend after Memorial Day. I plan on only doing about 65 mph and camping by a reservoir about halfway there. I race a Class 11 bug with my cousins.
typically when they winterize they take the fresh water drain plug (if equipped) and whatever other caps and place them with the hot water heater. If you take the grate off they are usually there.
But suggested your unit may have the values just inside somewhere just above those lines.
Black water tanks are not winterized but they will contain left over rv antifreeze from the procedure. Toilets' the same.
Generally run the fresh water through the system at home. Then at the campground with the sewer hooked up you may want to run it longer so get a real good flush and good tasting water.
This fall, put your air compressor to good use and blow out the trailer water lines yourself. The only thing that gets the RV antifreeze in my trailer is the drain traps in the sinks and tub.
Many folks do not drink the water out of the faucets in their trailer. If that's the case with yours, then you don't need to work as hard to clear the antifreeze out of the lines. Just get it close enough. If you plan to drink from the faucet then you'll want to sanitize the fresh water tank and all the lines.
While you're de-winterizing, seal up the gap around those low point drain lines. Otherwise, mice can get into the trailer through that gap.
Thanks for the advice about sealing up that area. I hooked up water today and flushed out the antifreeze one faucet at a time. Then as a novice I turned on the electric hot water heater before I realized it wasn't full of water because of some valves that were turned off (like pointed out above). So I killed the electric heater part but the propane works fine, that's what I will be using it at the race anyway. It sure will feel deluxe when my wife cooks some cinnamon rolls in the oven and I get to take a shower after the race...that will be something totally new to me.
I turned on all the devices and made sure they were working...but found the awning wasn't working. I dug out the Solara automatic wind controller device and found it had power to it but it wouldn't turn on. The dealer won't warranty it because it has a broken plastic mounting tab that has nothing to do with how it works. At the advice of another member I called the company directly and they seem more than willing to replace the controller because they even admit they have been having problems with them. Nothing like a dealer sticking their nose up in the air after you spend some money.
RV propane ovens are notoriously off when it comes to accurate temperatures. I know your wife can make a great cinnamon roll - along with every other baked good! - so let her know about the oven.
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Help Wanted: Flushing out the winterizing fluid
