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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Removing bed, what else should be done?

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Old May 13, 2020 | 09:32 PM
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dziwei
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Removing bed, what else should be done?

'96 F250 5.8l RWD regular cab getting a no bondo, no rust bed swapped on. Is there any maintenance that is easier to do while I have the old one off? Shocks?
Also, I spied what looks like a 'keyhole' just above the rear spring mounts on both sides of the frame, about 2" main hole with a 3/4" notch cut at the top of it, they don't look factory, cuts are kinda jagged. anyone seen these? what for?

thanks
 
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Old May 14, 2020 | 06:27 AM
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If you're in the rust belt, it might be a good time to do rear spring hangers and shackles if your truck needs them. You get fairly good access to these by taking the box off.

Shocks are easily doable even when the bed is still on.

Fuel system parts are also easily accessed with the bed off, as well as the rear brake hose.

I'm not sure about the "keyhole". Can you get a picture of it?
 
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Old May 14, 2020 | 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by GNR22
If you're in the rust belt, it might be a good time to do rear spring hangers and shackles if your truck needs them. You get fairly good access to these by taking the box off.

Shocks are easily doable even when the bed is still on.

Fuel system parts are also easily accessed with the bed off, as well as the rear brake hose.

I'm not sure about the "keyhole". Can you get a picture of it?
Only other thing I would add would be look at your rear brake lines, and wiring harness. Other then that GNR22 pretty much nailed it.
 
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Old May 14, 2020 | 12:42 PM
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Not extensive rust, although the bed bolts are fighting to hold fast with the rust in the threads... along with the tops of the tanks, lines & connectors AND the brake lines I will check the exhaust/catalytic converter for rust as those are made of thinner metal than the rest under there, they have what looks like a bit deeper than surface rust at the seams.

Those 'keyhole' knockouts are tough to get a pic of, I don't usually have my phone/camera when I am under there either... the roughness of the cut is what threw me, the consistency of the two holes and position seems like production work/factory.

thanks
 
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Old May 14, 2020 | 06:12 PM
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i think the "keyhole" you are referring to is the transport tow chain holes used when delivering from factory to dealer.
 
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Old May 14, 2020 | 06:36 PM
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Funny you should bring this up.. I had removed the bed from my '95 F250, simply because it made it easier to change out my front gas tank, as well as new pumps/sending units in both tanks, and fuel filter. I bought the truck two years ago, and found out immediately that the front tank pump was not working. The tank wasn't leaking or anything, but I bought a new one just in case . Good thing I did because it was full of coffee-colored stale gas, tank had lots of rust and the pump pickup screen was MIA.

I had replaced the front tank on my previous '97 F250HD from underneath and it was downright impossible to get to the tank/fuel hose fittings on top of the tank to release. AND I ended up boogering up the connector, necessitating a new (and obsolete) fuel line. I was extremely lucky to find one NOS for my extended-cab shortbed.

Taking the bed off was the MUCH easier way to access the top of the tanks where the fittings are! I had prepared for months, soaking the bed mounting bolts/nuts with PB Blaster.

In all, removing and re-installing the bed (using a buddy's 2-post lift), changing out the front gas tank, replacing both fuel pumps/sending units, fuel filter, and installing a Class V frame hitch took the two of us about four hours.
 
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