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Front End Rebuild

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Old May 10, 2020 | 06:29 PM
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gumboluvr's Avatar
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Front End Rebuild

Ok, It's been a long time since I've checked in with you guys. I got married and inherited my Father's truck so I neglected let Ole' Red for way too long. {Ole' Red is: 1994 F-250 XL 2WD 7.3L With about 280,000 miles IDI Factory turbo, 3" ATS turbo snail and down pipe, dual 4" stacks with rain flappers.} I'm ready to get her going again. I just put some new tires on her and the alignment shop told me both upper and lower ball joints on both sides need replacing.(Steering was sloppy for a long time) They didn't mention tie rod ends or anything else. My plan is to go through the entire front end. I have done this once before when I was 16 with my dad, so I know I can still do it. I haven't taken a look at anything yet, but assuming only "wear" parts need replacing
Questions:
1.) Where is the best place to find the parts?
2.) Should I replace coil springs? (After 280,00 miles she bounces a lot in the front end even with new shocks)
3.) It looks like the lower control arm can be bought with bushings, and ball joint as a unit. Can the upper??
4.) Where can I find a part number breakdown for my truck?
5.) I plan to do this work myself, but would hand it off to a good mechanic in the Gibsonton, FL area. I have not had good luck letting people work on this truck. I let an International Harvester dealer have her for 4 months and they couldn't find a collapsed lifter. Man I was mad..... So does anyone know a good mechanic around Gibtown??

Thanks for everything
 
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Old May 10, 2020 | 09:16 PM
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I bought all my parts for complete Front end Job on my 93 from Rock Auto

Stay away from the Blue Poly Bushings as they crack pretty quick.... I went all Moog parts and Now I have to replace the rear Blue Poly bushings as they are Crap the Red ones are just as bad.

Poly just don't seem to hold up like rubber and Teflon,

 
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Old May 10, 2020 | 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by lonewolf_
I bought all my parts for complete Front end Job on my 93 from Rock Auto

Stay away from the Blue Poly Bushings as they crack pretty quick.... I went all Moog parts and Now I have to replace the rear Blue Poly bushings as they are Crap the Red ones are just as bad.

Poly just don't seem to hold up like rubber and Teflon,
Rockauto has some pretty great deals, especially on front end parts

I also second that the poly whatever bushings are pure junk. I've worked on several trucks with the poly engine mounts and they all crumbled apart...good ol regular ancor brand mounts fixed all of em up and they haven't come back yet.

Recently I've been working on my front end, it's 125$ for all my leaf spring bushings and two new shackles, the poly kit was 50-75$, sure it's cheaper, but I really don't wanna do this job twice.

Also if your 2wd shouldn't you have king pins instead of ball joints? Or did they change that in 92?

Good luck and be sure to rent/buy a ball joint press if you'll need it. One of the best purchases I ever made. It's just a Chinese one but I've beat on it for years now.
 
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Old May 10, 2020 | 09:56 PM
  #4  
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my 93 is ball Joints 2wd

and yes I got several kits from Harbor Fright and the stuff all works good with a Hydraulic press too.
 
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Old May 10, 2020 | 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by lonewolf_
my 93 is ball Joints 2wd

and yes I got several kits from Harbor Fright and the stuff all works good with a Hydraulic press too.
Good to know, curious what year they changed..
 
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Old May 10, 2020 | 10:40 PM
  #6  
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not sure what year they changed....

BUT here are the Harbor Fright tools <<<<=== I use Fright instead of Freight ..it's just me LOL

https://www.harborfreight.com/ball-j...les-63279.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/master...-pc-63725.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/front-...-pc-63728.html

IF you have those you can handle most everything on our trucks ... you really need a Hydraulic Press too.

I didn't mention Bearing splitters and other things that are obvious.


The Pitman Arm on the steering box is a Bastid to get loose ... I stripped 2 HF pullers trying to get it loose also stripped Rental units ... I ended up using a Gas Axe and a BMFH on it after I removed the steering box.

the best way to get Pitman Arm off is with a Press but you will need to make your own Arbor Plates and a 20 ton press is a good starting point.


And I might add a good Air Chisel will help remove the old stuff, but will not help you install the new stuff
 
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Old May 10, 2020 | 11:10 PM
  #7  
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2.) Should I replace coil springs? (After 280,00 miles she bounces a lot in the front end even with new shocks)

Springs don't make bounce Shocks Make Bounce.


Let me be Clear here .... Springs Bounce with no Dampers.... Shocks are the Dampers .... so if the FE is bouncing then the shocks are junk... don't matter if they new or not.
 
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Old May 10, 2020 | 11:21 PM
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4.) Where can I find a part number breakdown for my truck? Ask Number Dummy he is the respected authority
 
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