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Old May 5, 2020 | 07:21 PM
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Unseize Technique

I’m working on trying to free up a 302 that has sat 10ish years. After reading online, I opted for the PB Blaster/Marvel Mystery Combo in each cylinder.

Immediately after oiling each cylinder I took a breaker bar to the crank bolt and got about an 1/8 of a turn applying minimal force. My question is should I go out each day and work the crank back and forth with the small amount of movement I’ve got, or wait a week before touching it again?
 
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Old May 6, 2020 | 10:10 AM
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Since the motor has already turned some there's no reason to wait at all. Spray the lube in the cylinders again and keep rocking the crankshaft back and forth until it frees up.
 
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Old May 6, 2020 | 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by alloro
Since the motor has already turned some there's no reason to wait at all. Spray the lube in the cylinders again and keep rocking the crankshaft back and forth until it frees up.

went out this morning and no apparent change in movement. Do I really need more oil or just wait to let the oil that is in the cylinder work? There is 3-4oz of Marvel in each cylinder plus PB blaster.
 
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Old May 6, 2020 | 11:11 AM
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The movement spreads the oil so no, letting it sit isn't helping. Is this motor installed or sitting on the ground?
 
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Old May 6, 2020 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by alloro
The movement spreads the oil so no, letting it sit isn't helping. Is this motor installed or sitting on the ground?
it’s installed.
 
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Old May 6, 2020 | 05:34 PM
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I vote to wait, Marvel's and PB are both solvents with penetrating oil. The wintergreen oil in MMO isn't just there to smell good, it's one of the best penetrants there is. It's a synthetic, but it works. Is it still locked??

If it was stuck for 10 years what's another week or two? Be patient. Just keep spraying and rocking it. I remember using Liquid Wrench on some carb studs that wouldn't budge and after a few days of soaking and shocking them with a hammer they were basically finger tight. Kroil and Moovit are supposed to be good too.
 
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Old May 6, 2020 | 06:14 PM
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What is the physics of having only a small amount of movement? Piston at the bottom of the stroke has a rust line so it’s dipping just below before hitting it again?


no one mentioned oiling the valve train in all the reading I’ve done, just pull spark plugs and fill with MMO?

no chance I have the cam binding some how?
 
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Old May 6, 2020 | 06:17 PM
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I suspect the passenger side rear cylinder is the rusty one as the spark plug had some rust on it.

the second from the front on the driver side is at the top of the stroke as all the oil cane pouring out when pumped in.

not sure if that puts that rear cylinder at the bottom of the stroke in a 302w.
 
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Old May 6, 2020 | 07:48 PM
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I had two 390's that sat for years and filled all cylinders with ATF, let em sit for an hour the put a breaker bar on the damper bolt. Both turned 2 full revolutions with no sticking after the first movement. 1/8 turn is half a stroke in the cylinder, so if it moved that far, I'd keep going. Rotate it two full revolutions, that's a full firing order on the dsitributor
 
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Old May 7, 2020 | 01:18 PM
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I would loosen all the accessory's belts and try again to turn it. Who knows, the alternator or something might be froze up.
 
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Old May 7, 2020 | 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by mark a.
I would loosen all the accessory's belts and try again to turn it. Who knows, the alternator or something might be froze up.
Good point. Transmission could also be a sticking point too.
 
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Old May 14, 2020 | 04:13 PM
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I've got it to turn about 1/3 now, but it locks up tight on both sides. Trying to put a little extra and the balancer nut starts to loosen. Going to stay after it but may try to flip the transmission into neutral for fun.


One thing I did notice, due to cylinder stroke and spark plug angle the two middle pistons on the passenger side had already let the MMO seep down into the oil pan while the cylinder in the rear still was full.
 
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Old May 15, 2020 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by 69F100R
the two middle pistons on the passenger side had already let the MMO seep down into the oil pan while the cylinder in the rear still was full.
I wouldn't worry about that leak-by just yet, no rings seal perfectly. Once you get the engine to run and it heats up and the oil spreads, that leak-by might not be there anymore.
 
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Old May 21, 2020 | 12:33 PM
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I use SeaFoam spray, Moovit, and Mercury Marine Power Tune for eating rust.
For soaking, some have poured ATF in the cylinders, and if engine was out, put the whole thing in a 40gallon drum submerged in ATF.
 
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Old May 25, 2020 | 08:50 PM
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Any luck? I have a seized 302 that I was about to start down this process. Thinking about using 50/50 ATF/Acetone brew.
 
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