It's not so much the return, but to revert back to my factory speed density set up would take lots of time and effort, potential complications as well.. I would hate to go through all that knowing there could be a simple solution or a mistake that can easily be fixed to make this functional. I think I'd like to do a bit more digging before ripping it all out just to be on the safe side.

 

you can test Mass Air, and TPS, to make sure they are working/talking to each other, like Conanski said.
Throttle Position Sensor Testing, Replacement and Adjustment - Ford Bronco Forum
Part 1 -How to Test the Ford Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor

 

The worst part is, even if their stuff worked like they say, it's still fundamentally flawed in a major way. Mass air ECU's use the MAF to calculate load. Load determines all sorts of things including timing, shift strategy, etc. Their "fooler" device that allows you to change the MAF output would allow you to adjust the air/fuel ratio (if it worked as intended) but at the same time, it throws off the load calculations used for those other things. So by "fixing" the air/fuel ratio, you're also throwing off the timing and other stuff that's just as important.

FYI, they say how to use their "Incredible Warranty" on their site: IST Incredible Warranty

Another thing, the shop they operate out of (according to the address on their site) has been for sale for 184 days according to this listing: https://www.realtor.com/realestatean...3_M67826-45529

Also, if you Google the address above, or the owner's name and city, this lawsuit is the first thing that pops up (and it matches the address on their website). It's not a good look: https://caselaw.findlaw.com/ga-court...s/1288323.html

 

A standard fuel pressure tester will give you the same results as a gauge on the rail. Only difference is, a standard tester (with a long enough hose) will allow you to view the fuel pressure while driving/under load which is MUCH more important than what it's doing at idle. So I wouldn't suggest a gauge on the rail.

We sell 3 bolt adjustable fuel pressure regulators for this application. With that said, I wouldn't suggest trying to fix the problems with an adjustable regulator. The issues with how this device is supposed to work regarding load calculations are much bigger problems than a regulator can fix. Also, to lower fuel pressure to fix the problem has two negative side effects: it lowers how much power your fuel system will support by making the injectors functionally smaller than stock (they flow less at lower pressure), and their spray pattern/atomization suffers as fuel pressure is decreased.

 

The reason I'd like the adjustable regulator is my next upgrade was to upgrade the fuel pump to match up with my larger injectors on my new engine. It is not currently installed yet but If the pressure is too much id like the ability to lower it

 

I still don't think I will be able to return it, even if I contact my credit card company the purchase was made mid last year. what are other options in terms of working with I have and tuning? All im concerned about is the ability to run my new motor when it is installed

 

Credit card claims are for instances of fraud when the company will not accept a return and they didn't give you what you paid for, or it's damaged/not functioning as claimed. The card couldn't care less if you successfully return the product or not. They just try to determine if the company defrauded you or not and if they did, they give you the money and go after the company (or write it off). The timeframe in question could matter (each card is different) but if you can prove when you received the product (and it was way after you purchased it) then that will work in your favor.

An adjustable regulator will help you set pressure if the stock regulator can't bypass enough fuel when a larger pump is installed. So if that's your goal, we've got what you need.

If you can identify what ECU you have (even if you need to open the case) then we can look at the pinout for that application and pretty easily figure out what to do (if anything) to make your harness work with our ECU. If we can't figure out what ECU you've got, you'd have to do some tests with a multimeter to determine where some of the wires are routed (or just trace wire colors where possible) to determine the pinout for a handful of wires. Once we know your pinout it becomes a normal install with one of our ECU's.

 

After all this trouble I've been having, I'd like nothing more than to take it all out and put a holley sniper or something in. so much simpler

 

That's an option. Or you could support the company that's been trying to help you along the way. There is nothing the Sniper can do that our ECU can't do.

 

After reading this thread, when I start to beef up the 5.8 in my 90' F150, I'll be buying a kit from Stinger Performance! Just gotta finish my Dana 44 SAS

 

How bout a bit of bread upon the waters?

Work something out by PM with the guy. Most of us here put up with essentially endless commercials & unrealistic budget enthusiasts TV for a sliver of useful information...

Much less for application specific OBS info. You could waste a lot more cash for a lot less return.

Be nice to see a installation project here on the board that nobody's done yet. Granted, fixing a buggered other brand install ain't ideal

He gets his money back, he can square up.

Just sayin'.

 

have you pulled the ECM to see what it is, check thread link below, start at post #20 by 350DET that has IST installed
IST Products mass air kit - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

 

After looking at the installation instructions I see there is quite a bit of potential for mistakes with the wiring mods that are necessary. The bottom line is this system should just work on a stock motor without any tweaking whatsoever so the fact that it doesn't suggest something isn't hooked up quite right.

Has the vacuum line between the intake and MAP sensor been removed? This becomes a BARO sensor when the mustang PCM is used so it still needs to be electrically connected but it should be vented to atmosphere not connected to engine vacuum.

 

this seems to be the general Modus Operandi of most add-on equipment makers; they have something that works on a Mustang (sort of) so they try to expand that field by offering it to all Ford (or whatever) products, untested for the most part. These sellers usually have their behinds handed to them via internet reviews on a daily basis.

Stinger seems to be the odd man out, as they do have good support for a product, that if installed properly, will work. I plan to have Parkland Performance Auto Machine do my heads/manifold and get a cam from them when I build my 7.5 in my '97 F250HD. In some casual talks with them, the PimpXshift came up. They said, "No Problem!" Apparently the PimpX is held in high regard. That clinched the deal, so I'm going to put the big 255lph pumps in my truck, then the PimpXshift this summer sometime. Get the system up and running before I add the pumped engine. Hopefully find a donor engine that can be built while I drive my truck.

I would suggest to the OP, get in touch with Stinger, find out what you need to redo all the Jim-quackery IST asked you to do and install one of their systems.

Sorry if that was a long post, I have no use for aftermarket sellers that can't make their shi . . . stuff work, then blow you off. As a suggestion, call them on a different phone. They probably have your number blocked. Let them know, help me or you'll dispute the card charge.

 

I was simply pointing out that there is only one company trying to help him (along with the rest of the individuals in this thread) and it's not the one he gave $1250 (IST) and it's not the one he says he's thinking about giving another $1250 (Holley), but it is the one who supports this forum and these old trucks. It had nothing to do with him owing us anything for my limited time in this thread.