When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Exhaust will be one part that will help these smog engines out. gutting the smog equipment and going with aftermarket would help even more so. heads and cam upgrade will be a big help as well seeing as these smog heads are the bottle neck. But have to ask yourself how far do you want to go.
Im working on a 306 build to replace my smog 302 and with my current planned configuration I will be right at $9,500 or so for the engine and exhaust system.
What would be the top 5 worthy upgrades for a 302 to help it out performance wise on a 4x4 platform?
Having spent a pile of money building a mild 302 for my 1984, I can tell you what I'd do: Buy a 351 Windsor...lol. J/K....sort of, but not really.
I love my little 302, and it sounds delicious, but I spent way too much money on it.
If I was going to do it again, I'd probably...
Remove all smog equipment (if possible in your area)
Install 4bbl intake and carburetor (Holley or Edelbrock 600CFM with electric choke and vacuum secondaries)
New timing chain and gears
New custom curved distributor.
Shorty headers and free(er) flowing exhaust. (I say shorty headers because long tubes are more difficult to fit).
New higher performance heads and cam and stuff like that are nice, but once you're in that far you're damn near into an engine build...which is fine if that is what you want to do. I did, and ended up rebuilding an engine that didn't need to be rebuilt...lol. It's all good if that's what you want, and it fits with the needs/uses of the truck.
Definitely trying to stay pretty conservative, price wise. Just trying to see whats a good cost effective way of squeezing a little more HP out of this motor.
Anything with a conventional mechanical distributor + vacuum advance can be tuned for very noticeably better performance and welcome economy & range. Trucks generally had very "lazy" slow advance curves using stiff springs.
Somebody once pointed out lots of people will bolt on all kinds of spendy $$ perfomance manifolds & carburetors though neglect the distributor advances curve. Cost? Next to nothing, except your time and effort. Look into DIY distributor curving.
Need a timing light, some tape for the balancer and familiarize yourself with Ford distributor mechanisms. Kind of a pita to do but you'll thank yourself every time you drive it.
By SMOG equipment, I assume you mean Catalytic converter? I"m not very comfortable messing with anything timing wise. It's been a long time since I have even messed with any of that.
Exhaust will be one part that will help these smog engines out. gutting the smog equipment and going with aftermarket would help even more so. heads and cam upgrade will be a big help as well seeing as these smog heads are the bottle neck. But have to ask yourself how far do you want to go.
Im working on a 306 build to replace my smog 302 and with my current planned configuration I will be right at $9,500 or so for the engine and exhaust system.
Originally Posted by Rembrant
Having spent a pile of money building a mild 302 for my 1984, I can tell you what I'd do: Buy a 351 Windsor...lol. J/K....sort of, but not really.
I love my little 302, and it sounds delicious, but I spent way too much money on it.
If I was going to do it again, I'd probably...
Remove all smog equipment (if possible in your area)
Install 4bbl intake and carburetor (Holley or Edelbrock 600CFM with electric choke and vacuum secondaries)
New timing chain and gears
New custom curved distributor.
Shorty headers and free(er) flowing exhaust. (I say shorty headers because long tubes are more difficult to fit).
New higher performance heads and cam and stuff like that are nice, but once you're in that far you're damn near into an engine build...which is fine if that is what you want to do. I did, and ended up rebuilding an engine that didn't need to be rebuilt...lol. It's all good if that's what you want, and it fits with the needs/uses of the truck.
First was the 351 then got thinking of that rabbit hole LOL
You did not say how many miles are on the motor and what the truck may need like the EXH. system or a carb, etc. as some of this can be done in steps.
Need a carb well do the intake & carb. Exh. system is falling off or not there do the shorty headers on back.
Timing chain has a lot of play and needs to be replaced, maybe a cam at the same time but ......... if the motor has miles then a cam may not be a good thing.
You would most likely need new push rods, shorter or longer ones to make match the cam to ge4t the valve train back where it needs to be.
You also did not say what rear gear is in the truck and with the larger tires may feel like a dog.
A lower set of gears would fix that but would also spin the motor faster when in top gear.
This is where a 5sp over drive would work good with the lower gears and make it feel like you have more power.
I got to say I like my 300 six with the granny T18 I know there is not a lot I can do to may a hot rod out if it and I am fine with that.
Dave ----
The motor has 91k original miles on it. Axle code is H6 which I assume is 3.50 gears? I'm running 32x11.50's. I don't want it to be a hotrod, just would like to know if I could help it out a bit more. The truck was maintained very well. The Carb was rebuilt in 2019 along with all new brakes all around, and ignition components as well and an electric fuel pump was added.
By SMOG equipment, I assume you mean Catalytic converter? I"m not very comfortable messing with anything timing wise. It's been a long time since I have even messed with any of that.
If you don't want to do it yourself the next best thing in fact I would say the best thing is to send your distributor out to someone with a sun machine that can recurve the distributor for you. That's what I am doing to eliminate all guess work. Guy I am going to use charges under $150 to slap it on his sun machine and recurve it. But you have to be able to give him the specs of not just your engine but your truck as well.
First was the 351 then got thinking of that rabbit hole LOL
You did not say how many miles are on the motor and what the truck may need like the EXH. system or a carb, etc. as some of this can be done in steps.
Need a carb well do the intake & carb. Exh. system is falling off or not there do the shorty headers on back.
Timing chain has a lot of play and needs to be replaced, maybe a cam at the same time but ......... if the motor has miles then a cam may not be a good thing.
You would most likely need new push rods, shorter or longer ones to make match the cam to ge4t the valve train back where it needs to be.
You also did not say what rear gear is in the truck and with the larger tires may feel like a dog.
A lower set of gears would fix that but would also spin the motor faster when in top gear.
This is where a 5sp over drive would work good with the lower gears and make it feel like you have more power.
I got to say I like my 300 six with the granny T18 I know there is not a lot I can do to may a hot rod out if it and I am fine with that.
Dave ----
Yep I am too far in myself to back out now lol. I didn't want to do a 351W as I have dealer AC and the bracketry wouldn't fit without serious modification. Now here I am pushing $8,000 for the build as it stands now not including the extra $1,800 for the holley EFI I decided to go with instead for better driveability.
Part of me wished I went a bit more mellow but I didn't want to do this job twice so I over built some areas that would allow for more reliability. It is now hard though to start off with a tow build and then end up with on paper a 1/4 mile strip engine by making changes here and there to your initial plan.
Honestly if you don't want to get too far into it but want a little more power I would look at exhaust and timing. my smog 302 came to life when I bumped the timing from 8* to 12* initial. But you might not be able to, what you would have to do is keep bumping timing up till the engine drags on restart when hot then you back it down a couple degrees. I got mine up to 14* initial but would barely crank when hot so backed mine down to 12*.
The 306 how ever I am going to see what the guy recurving my distributor recommends for base timing.
Do you want a big increase in throttle response and acceleration guaranteed? Put the stock tires back on it. Huge difference. I bought my truck with 35 inch tires on it, I could not wait for them to wear out. They finally dry rotted. I just put 265-75-16 tires on it and it has twice the get up and go and pulling power that it did before. Those big tires killed it. And I have a diesel with 4.10 gears. That little 302 is not a high torque truck engine, it needs to rev to get any power. Those over size tires you have are killing it.
Do you want a big increase in throttle response and acceleration guaranteed? Put the stock tires back on it. Huge difference. I bought my truck with 35 inch tires on it, I could not wait for them to wear out. They finally dry rotted. I just put 265-75-16 tires on it and it has twice the get up and go and pulling power that it did before. Those big tires killed it. And I have a diesel with 4.10 gears. That little 302 is not a high torque truck engine, it needs to rev to get any power. Those over size tires you have are killing it.
Depending on his axle ratio he could up the ratio to off set the tires. Its what I am doing to offset my 31x10.50-15 tires on my 82. A 3.00:1 with my tires would be just under the stock 2.75:1 axle ratio and the 3.25:1 I am planning on running would put me at 2.90:1 axle ratio. Not sure what ratio he has but it is a way to offset the power loss if he truly wants to keep the tire size.