Multiple codes, running poorly. 05 f350
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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FICM VPower is the Vehicle voltage. FICM LPower is the FICM logic voltage. Both are helpful to watch.
In your post above (WOT conditions), your ICP pressure is WAY low (especially since your IPR valve duty cycle is maxed out). Also very low at the non-WOT conditions. You most likely have a leak in the high pressure oil system (STC fitting, dummy plugs, standpipes are most likely suspects), a failing HPOP (not extremely likely), or a failing IPR valve. An air test is in order IMO.
Also, that is some fairly high boost. What tuner/tunes are you running? If you aren't running tunes, your turbo unison-ring/vanes are almost certainly stuck.
In your post above (WOT conditions), your ICP pressure is WAY low (especially since your IPR valve duty cycle is maxed out). Also very low at the non-WOT conditions. You most likely have a leak in the high pressure oil system (STC fitting, dummy plugs, standpipes are most likely suspects), a failing HPOP (not extremely likely), or a failing IPR valve. An air test is in order IMO.
Also, that is some fairly high boost. What tuner/tunes are you running? If you aren't running tunes, your turbo unison-ring/vanes are almost certainly stuck.
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2018
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FICM VPower is the Vehicle voltage. FICM LPower is the FICM logic voltage. Both are helpful to watch.
In your post above (WOT conditions), your ICP pressure is WAY low (especially since your IPR valve duty cycle is maxed out). Also very low at the non-WOT conditions. You most likely have a leak in the high pressure oil system (STC fitting, dummy plugs, standpipes are most likely suspects), a failing HPOP (not extremely likely), or a failing IPR valve. An air test is in order IMO.
Also, that is some fairly high boost. What tuner/tunes are you running? If you aren't running tunes, your turbo unison-ring/vanes are almost certainly stuck.
In your post above (WOT conditions), your ICP pressure is WAY low (especially since your IPR valve duty cycle is maxed out). Also very low at the non-WOT conditions. You most likely have a leak in the high pressure oil system (STC fitting, dummy plugs, standpipes are most likely suspects), a failing HPOP (not extremely likely), or a failing IPR valve. An air test is in order IMO.
Also, that is some fairly high boost. What tuner/tunes are you running? If you aren't running tunes, your turbo unison-ring/vanes are almost certainly stuck.
I am not running a tune what so ever, the truck to my knowledge has never had a programmer on it. I will brush up on the Air test procedures and try and get that done this weekend.
I kinda figures that might be the case with my turbo.
on a cold start up I do have and injector that seems to stick, or have some sort of issue. Once warmed up it is no longer an issue. I'm assuming its injector number 3 due to the code I recieved P0269. Would now be a good time to also change that injector?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,931
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Yeah, you need to remove and rebuild that turbo. That kind of boost can eventually stress head bolts. While doing that, remove the valve covers and do an air test of the high pressure oil system.
If you don't know whether or not the HPOP discharge (STC) fitting has ever been changed, you might want to check on that also.
As far as just replacing injector #3, that is a tough call. I would take into account how old the other injectors are. The passenger side is a little harder IMO, so with it all opened up, it would be a good time to just put in all new ones on that side. That is my plan if I get an injector issue arise - but then I know that my injectors are all original at 220k miles.
If you don't know whether or not the HPOP discharge (STC) fitting has ever been changed, you might want to check on that also.
As far as just replacing injector #3, that is a tough call. I would take into account how old the other injectors are. The passenger side is a little harder IMO, so with it all opened up, it would be a good time to just put in all new ones on that side. That is my plan if I get an injector issue arise - but then I know that my injectors are all original at 220k miles.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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I think they (the vanes) are stuck closed making high boost (and high back pressure) and the controls are trying to drop the boost down. Increasing the VGT duty cycle should increase boost with a working VGT system the way I understand it. Low VGT duty cycle will open the vanes.
15% command reduces the exhaust gas spiral and reduces the boost - again, as I understand it.
15% command reduces the exhaust gas spiral and reduces the boost - again, as I understand it.
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Junior User
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Alright so, I will probably tear into the truck tomorrow, I'm going to be removing the turbo to inspect/clean it. While I'm in there I will do an air test, besides making a decision on the injectors, is there any wear items I should consider replacing while I have the turbo out of the way?
For example, I know my truck needs a thermostat so I'm going to be changing that, I'm debating on doing an oil cooler flush while I'm there being the turbo will be out of the way and easy access.
Anything else back there that would be easy to check or replace while that is out of the way? Other than the stuff mentioned in the earlier replys?
I have been back and forth on an exhaust or no . I want one. But I mostly use the truck for pulling my camper so I'm worried it will get a little annoying for the wife on long trips....
For example, I know my truck needs a thermostat so I'm going to be changing that, I'm debating on doing an oil cooler flush while I'm there being the turbo will be out of the way and easy access.
Anything else back there that would be easy to check or replace while that is out of the way? Other than the stuff mentioned in the earlier replys?
I have been back and forth on an exhaust or no . I want one. But I mostly use the truck for pulling my camper so I'm worried it will get a little annoying for the wife on long trips....
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,931
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You might as well pull the EBP sensor and verify it is clean and the tube is clear.
Any way to know if you have the updated dummy plugs and standpipes before you tear into it? Same question for the HPOP discharge fitting?
Any way to know if you have the updated dummy plugs and standpipes before you tear into it? Same question for the HPOP discharge fitting?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2004
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FICM VPower is the Vehicle voltage. FICM LPower is the FICM logic voltage. Both are helpful to watch.
In your post above (WOT conditions), your ICP pressure is WAY low (especially since your IPR valve duty cycle is maxed out). Also very low at the non-WOT conditions. You most likely have a leak in the high pressure oil system (STC fitting, dummy plugs, standpipes are most likely suspects), a failing HPOP (not extremely likely), or a failing IPR valve. An air test is in order IMO.
Also, that is some fairly high boost. What tuner/tunes are you running? If you aren't running tunes, your turbo unison-ring/vanes are almost certainly stuck.
In your post above (WOT conditions), your ICP pressure is WAY low (especially since your IPR valve duty cycle is maxed out). Also very low at the non-WOT conditions. You most likely have a leak in the high pressure oil system (STC fitting, dummy plugs, standpipes are most likely suspects), a failing HPOP (not extremely likely), or a failing IPR valve. An air test is in order IMO.
Also, that is some fairly high boost. What tuner/tunes are you running? If you aren't running tunes, your turbo unison-ring/vanes are almost certainly stuck.
he's only getting 20psi boost or so? I guess since he is going into the engine (sort of) the turbo rebuilt could be good to do now anyway?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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Good point. WOT was 22 psi boost (not crazy high by itself, IF he were actually getting the WOT power), but he wasn't getting near full power with the significantly reduced ICP pressure. His EBP was 37 psig or (51 psia). The NON-WOT boost was still fairly high 18 psi with only 20 psi EBP (34 psia). Close to same boost at half the gauge EBP. That is what is making me think the vanes are stuck.
The Ford typical values show that the boost is too high at the "less than WOT" conditions.
The P0299 and P0478 also tend to point to the turbo issues (and the "barking"). OH, and the VGT % duty cycle shouldn't ever be at 15% (unless tuned).
The Ford typical values show that the boost is too high at the "less than WOT" conditions.
The P0299 and P0478 also tend to point to the turbo issues (and the "barking"). OH, and the VGT % duty cycle shouldn't ever be at 15% (unless tuned).
Fleet Owner
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After thinking a bit, the EBP is "supposed" to be in psia units according to the PC/ED manual. As such it should read the same as barometric pressure at KOEO.
His KOEO EBP reading is 0 instead of 14.2 psia. I know the Edge does some funny things w/ the EBP value and I had thought that one of the odd things was that it reported the value in gauge pressure (and if so, the "0" reading would be good at KOEO). What if his CTS2 is actually reading the EBP in psia as it should and it is reporting it as zero? Doesn't make sense to me to do that, especially since he sees actual EBP values when the engine is running - but I was just doing a "what if" moment.
His KOEO EBP reading is 0 instead of 14.2 psia. I know the Edge does some funny things w/ the EBP value and I had thought that one of the odd things was that it reported the value in gauge pressure (and if so, the "0" reading would be good at KOEO). What if his CTS2 is actually reading the EBP in psia as it should and it is reporting it as zero? Doesn't make sense to me to do that, especially since he sees actual EBP values when the engine is running - but I was just doing a "what if" moment.
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Junior User
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Alright so here is the deal. My buddy has a scan tool and on monday we are gonna do the Air test and use the scanner to close the IPR. So after we find which side or if it's both sides that I am getting a leak from I will move forward from there.. if the leak is coming from both sides I'm assuming that ould mean a STC leak? Anyhow I believe that if I have to tear it down to the valve covers I'm going to just replace both dummy plugs and standpipe with the updated ones and probably do the STC fitting while I'm there.... basically I wont have any updates for you guys untill monday.
I cant thank you guys enough for all the help I will keep everyone posted on how the air test goes. Then hopefully all you smart fellas can tell me the best way to move forward.
I cant thank you guys enough for all the help I will keep everyone posted on how the air test goes. Then hopefully all you smart fellas can tell me the best way to move forward.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2018
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From: Jacksonville Florida
It's not about smart fellows, it's about help that these guys are willing to give. Everyone is smart in there own way. Trust me I dummer than a stump.
Ya know what? I asked for help.
Walla!! I know more about a 6.0 than I did 3 years ago. And I still pay attention to what's on this site.
But when it comes to 6.0s. Ya can't go wrong here.
Ya know what? I asked for help.
Walla!! I know more about a 6.0 than I did 3 years ago. And I still pay attention to what's on this site.
But when it comes to 6.0s. Ya can't go wrong here.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 195
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intermittent power loss, that might shift blame from being some broken hard parts. As mark pointed out about the EBP, it seems your EBP is running a 14-15 psi negative bias. That would make me think either the EBP sensor or wiring. If you could post some EBP voltages it might help illuminate the issue. Although I am not totally up on EBP logic ( mine is a inferred EBP), I am pretty sure that much error will mess up your mess up your boost settings. That might be causing the VGT % dc calling for making more back pressure even though there is sufficeoinr back pressure ab. ( the closed-open vane scenario mark mentioned). also 15% dc is not a number you should ever see while driving. The commanded VGT might be trying for more EBP because sensor is not finding the expected pressure.. Stuck vanes? you could do a VGT relearn and listen to the exhaust at the rear while it is doing the idling re-learn, if vanes are moving the exhaust will cycle from deep throaty to regular sound. Still if you have the energy the DIY "rebuild" is easy and fairly cheap, just more time. The relearn is not a definitive test but at least will verify that the vanes can more.