I haven't run cables to the battery yet, but I'm looking for feedback about this location. It was convenient to use the existing bolts and out of the way. I don't plan to do any off roading but I was just curious if there were any other potential issues that may come up that would make this a bad idea. It would primarily be used for emergency jumping if I ever get around to removing the lock cylinder and the battery dies.
Thanks!

 

What's the intended purpose? For me, I'd want them in an area that's a little more protected which I guess could sort of defeat the purpose of accessible terminals...

 

If you drive in any snow, that will be a block of ice, in the grill is wear most towing companies put them, time to do sum fabbin and also an excuse to get out of the house.

 

I saw a good spot in the grille but just having recently wrestled with that thing taking it off for the headlight upgrade, I'm not excited about going back in there yet. Good to know though. Might reconsider.

 

I recommend grill too. It's not bad to remove, Ive got it down to a few minutes. Zap out the plastic pins and off goes the shield, zip out those bolts, reach down with a large slotted screwdriver and it pops right off! I like the idea of remote terminals versus remote quick connect jumper cables. More useful in the scenario you described of dead battery and no lock cylinder, plus just makes jumping other vehicles faster access wise. Win-win.

 

Every time I take the grille out, I either break or lose a tab or 2 so, rest assured, it gets easier!

 

Heres an idea i used on my unimog to move winch front to back, I got a male and female big battery quick connectors, they may have been 8 or 10 gauge, wire to battery then the female connector tucks in grill or bumper, male connector on one end of jumper cable the other end leave the clamps on. the connectors were about an 1” tall by 2” long, easy to tuck in somewhere. I think snowplow use something similar. very heavy duty.

 

googled.

 

In my experience with external terminals, especially if you live in the North where salt is used in Winter your going to have a corrosion problem with this even when somewhat protected installations. Corrosion seems to happen at a faster rate in these conditions when current (electric) is involved and in connections. If you have the luxury of living in Southern or Western Regions this won't be as much of a problem. Where I worked we had the quick connects like the ones pictured above and they were tried both on the front and the rear of different vehicles and treated with dielectric grease, fluid film, bearing grease, WD-40 and cable lube. there wasn't much difference in any position or application of the results. Corrosion ! This might be something to consider when picking a location and fixtures.

 

I would use those Anderson connectors on a ~24" cable that is secured under the hood. Even better is if the cable was on a heavy duty relay that you could activate with an Upfitter switch.

 

just get this

 

^^^^^^^^there ya go. me———-duhhhhhh. lol🤔

 

The cable in the upper right corner of the picture posted above is what I'm talking about. That's exactly what I would do.

 

That’s what I’ve always used (upper right) for connecting winches...this set-up was discussed on how to jump-off truck if battery is dead when using jimmy jammers and removing key lock cylinder. Forgot link in previous post...

 

Members have posted good solutions but if your goal is, as stated, to use it for emergency jumping when you are unable to get into your truck to pop the hood, your location should be fine. I would not use your location if I intended to use the remote connections every time I wanted to use jumper cables. Consider too that if the remote connection will be used only when the battery is too dead to activate the door locks, the remote connection does not need to be sized to jump the truck. It only needs to be large enough to power the door locks. Once you have access to the truck's interior, you can pop the hood and connect jumper cables directly to the battery.