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This is your 85 6.9, right? That is some lousy mileage. You have an auto or gear box, and 4x4 or one wheel drive?
With my 86 F250 6.9 4-spd 3:55 Diff. one wheel drive and 297K mile, I can easily click along at 20mpg.....empty.
Of course loaded, head wind or dragging my Car trailer along the mileage takes a dump.
This is your 85 6.9, right? That is some lousy mileage. You have an auto or gear box, and 4x4 or one wheel drive?
With my 86 F250 6.9 4-spd 3:55 Diff. one wheel drive and 297K mile, I can easily click along at 20mpg.....empty.
Of course loaded, head wind or dragging my Car trailer along the mileage takes a dump.
Charlie
Yep, it's a 85' 6.9 with the C6 trans, 4X4 and I believe 4.10 rear end because on the order sheet it states it has an "optional gear ratio" but the sticker on the door is too worn to read. It's a regular cab long bed and a new addition of a cap. This mileage is completely unloaded. I actually believe it's an F-250HD because the GVWR is 8500lbs but it doesn't have the 10.25" rear end.
That slipamatic trans and the low gear rear will for sure take some of the wind out of your sails.
Iam not sure, but there may be a tag on your Differential that might have some info on the ratio.
I wasn`t aware 4x4`s got that bad of mileage. Just about every one with a Pick Up here in northern
Nevada has a jacked up 4x4 with big tires sitting about as tall as a Peterbilt truck. Wonder what
their mileage is?
Only had to chain up one time this winter in my one wheel drive. Drove from Carson City to Sacramento
over Hwy50 through Lake Tahoe, and back. Came back in the afternoon and the roads were mostly
dry. Go figure.
So I did the whole return line system across the injectors when I replaced them originally, and I got a good reputable kit. I'll go check to make sure all my lines are tight and get a cover for the schrader valve. Seeing my fuel filter drained down that far tells me there is some kind of siphoning action going on downstream because I can't think of any explanation. Although now that I put all of this together it would explain the ridiculously hard starting action I have no matter what the temperature it is outside. Am I right to first go buy a cap for the valve, make sure all return lines are tight and secure, then drop the tank and check/change the sending unit, and while the sending unit is off clear the lines using compressed air? The most expensive part to that whole process is going to be a new sending unit, but if it fixes my hard starting and stalling issue I would consider it money well spent. Also one more thought, my fuel economy has been hanging around the 11 mpg area, granted it is still in the 40's outside but if there is a blockage somewhere could this be the cause of such low numbers. Everyone else I see on here is getting 14 to 15 and I am baffled as to why I can't get over the 12 mark.
The F26E will double Your fuel capacity in the rear tank..food for thought in case Yer tanks are rusted when Ya drop em. Wanna go cheap there's some stuff to slosh around the inside to clean the tank. The TREX senders are good quality overall. Comes with a free ink pen! I tell everyone who sees it that its my $75 pen lolz. These senders even made my gas gauge work again (technically gas gauge was werkin all along but senders unit that sends signal to gas gauge wasn't werkin until TREX come along..hongray!!!)
Last edited by Onemoreblessedtexan; Apr 24, 2020 at 06:09 AM.
Reason: Misquote
Interesting, yeah I mostly cruise at 55-60 on state highways except for going through town which is a 3 mile stretch at 25 with one stoplight. I would love to do a turbo but I'm afraid I am going to create more problems than it's worth at this point.... oh well I guess we will see what the fuel filter fixes. I also plan on comparing the cold weather to summer weather for economy. Funny thing though now that I come to think of it, I traveled up to Butler, WI on the interstate for a 30ish mile drive and speeds hung around 60-65, maybe 70 and I got nearly 15 mpg...... I have 33's too I think, maybe 35's I can't remember
they should Stop any Bleed Back, like if the Duck bills are bad and you don't want to pull the tanks.
BTW always put a Brass Valve stem cap with the rubber seal on the schrader valve when it is not in use.
What size would the fuel line be that goes from the return system to the filter head? The one from the front injector to the head? I found a nice aluminum one for $12
What size would the fuel line be that goes from the return system to the filter head? The one from the front injector to the head? I found a nice aluminum one for $12
But Yes Charlie you right someone removed the finger from the straw... it only takes a Pinhole.... like a Balloon 1 ***** all gone
Thing is if the Duck Bill is missing then surface tension is easily broken for the lines laying against the frame and will cause Siphon action to happen especially if air is getting in.
Image posted so we know what is being talked about.
When folks put high pressure on the return line .... the valve is easily blown off (or Blown apart) to cause other issues in the tank [/QUOTE]
This sounds like there is a return line to the tank(s). Is there a diagram of this? Where does it connect to the system at the engine side?
But Yes Charlie you right someone removed the finger from the straw... it only takes a Pinhole.... like a Balloon 1 ***** all gone
Thing is if the Duck Bill is missing then surface tension is easily broken for the lines laying against the frame and will cause Siphon action to happen especially if air is getting in.
Image posted so we know what is being talked about.
When folks put high pressure on the return line .... the valve is easily blown off (or Blown apart) to cause other issues in the tank
This sounds like there is a return line to the tank(s). Is there a diagram of this? Where does it connect to the system at the engine side?[/QUOTE]
There is a little clamp that holds that Duck Bill onto the return tube. So it won`t come off easily.
I replaced both senders on my 86 last summer, and the Duck Bills were on and looked ok.
probably original factory. Haven`t read of anyone having them come off like the Shower Heads
crumbling.
You are in Ca. and using Straws? The PC Police are coming for you>
There is a little clamp that holds that Duck Bill onto the return tube. So it won`t come off easily.
I replaced both senders on my 86 last summer, and the Duck Bills were on and looked ok.
probably original factory. Haven`t read of anyone having them come off like the Shower Heads
crumbling.
You are in Ca. and using Straws? The PC Police are coming for you>
You in the san Lorenzo valley area?
Charlie
Yeah they are clamped and as said don't come off easy.... I was just trying to stress the point of not using High powered compressed Air as an older duck bill could be damaged pretty easy
I love the Straw Comment LMAO ... The CA Straw Police