Anyone Has EEC-IV Testing Procedure?
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I checked the fuel pressure last week and I want to say it 32 psi at idle and 38 psi at wot but ill double check it tonight.
I also checked for vacuum leaks using smoke and carb cleaner and I didn't see or hear any. The compression was from 145 psi on 5 cylinders and 150 psi on the rest
I "cleaned" the injectors by using a tire stem value and placed it over the top and sprayed carb cleaner through the injector. Then activating the injector using a 9v battery and did that a few times then used the air compressor and placed around 50 psi on the injector while it was in a bucket of water to check if they were leaking. I know this is not the correct way hahaha.
I also did a leak down test on the fuel rail and they only lost a pound or two after an hour.
The fuel pump does prime for a second, it does give me code 10, and I can make it give me code on the KOER if don't turn the steering wheel or press the OD switch
The KOEF will cycle threw all the solenoids
The old pcm capacitors looked fine but i do have a new pcm in the truck.
All the sensors are getting 5v. And i test all the senors at the pcm and seem to check out
It still runs rough with or without the spout
However the last few weeks it seems like it is running worse at idle (surges a lot more now) when i first start it 40-50 F. Then once it warms up it gets a little better and not much.
It seems to run the best (still rich) when it around 0-10 F.
Here the link to where I got the waveform EEC IV Inner Workings
I also checked for vacuum leaks using smoke and carb cleaner and I didn't see or hear any. The compression was from 145 psi on 5 cylinders and 150 psi on the rest
I "cleaned" the injectors by using a tire stem value and placed it over the top and sprayed carb cleaner through the injector. Then activating the injector using a 9v battery and did that a few times then used the air compressor and placed around 50 psi on the injector while it was in a bucket of water to check if they were leaking. I know this is not the correct way hahaha.
I also did a leak down test on the fuel rail and they only lost a pound or two after an hour.
The fuel pump does prime for a second, it does give me code 10, and I can make it give me code on the KOER if don't turn the steering wheel or press the OD switch
The KOEF will cycle threw all the solenoids
The old pcm capacitors looked fine but i do have a new pcm in the truck.
All the sensors are getting 5v. And i test all the senors at the pcm and seem to check out
It still runs rough with or without the spout
However the last few weeks it seems like it is running worse at idle (surges a lot more now) when i first start it 40-50 F. Then once it warms up it gets a little better and not much.
It seems to run the best (still rich) when it around 0-10 F.
Here the link to where I got the waveform EEC IV Inner Workings
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Update I just checked the fuel pressure again and it was 34 psi at idle and 32 at wot. So there's a problem there, I checked the vacuum and it was 16-17 inHg at idle and at wot 18-19 inHg. Isn't that backwards shouldn't the vacuum decrease as the rpm increases.
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From: Easton,Ks
Leave the vacuum line off and plug it that is going to the fuel pressure regulator and see what you have as you goose it to WOT.
OR
Ground pin #6 of the self test connector (plug) or short it to pin #2 and turn the key to the run position with the engine not running.
You should have about 40psi in both cases.
Yes the vacuum should go to near zero when you goose it to WOT and bounce back to near 29 inches as the throttle snaps back closed.
OR
Ground pin #6 of the self test connector (plug) or short it to pin #2 and turn the key to the run position with the engine not running.
You should have about 40psi in both cases.
Yes the vacuum should go to near zero when you goose it to WOT and bounce back to near 29 inches as the throttle snaps back closed.
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Yah, when I take the vacuum line off and plug it then rev it to wot, it gets about 39 psi of fuel pressure.
Then when I snap the throttle it goes down to 0 then jumps to 21-22 inHg then goes back to 13 inHg and finally increases back to 16-17 inHg. If that makes sense
Then when I snap the throttle it goes down to 0 then jumps to 21-22 inHg then goes back to 13 inHg and finally increases back to 16-17 inHg. If that makes sense
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hl649
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Aug 2, 2003 04:45 AM
