90 f250 supercab 7.3L c6(in process) 4x4

howdy,
so the gasket for c6 to extension housing to transfer case was misordered and not in until tomorrow. Ho well...was able to deliver some fresh weeds that had overtaken our gravel walkway to a friend with chickens that love fresh greens!-). So the 20$ in fuel wasn’t a waste at all. Also was able to see old and new friends...

old


Old and new!-)





So ready to investigate the no light situation on the rig...
when fixing the key ignition actuator problem we pulled a red wire stuffed into a the fuse box with the fuse still in it. No pic.
tracing the wire up to the light switch area we pulled it and the wire (fat and seems to be the power) where the finger is on the
black area (outdoor liquid electrical tape) is where the wire was wrapped around. That’s not a gonna work a...is the thought.



There is no power to this connection (the fat wire)
any guidance is appreciated.
thank you

 

Update...
blinker, flashers, brake lights all work.
Headlight switch works when installed in a different truck.




The fat wire pointed out earlier
seems to be this orange/black wire at back of fuse box.
and there is continuity from headlight switch connector and pictured wire in fuse box.
there is also continuity with 3 other wires surrounding this wire at fuse box

 

Headlight switch is fed by fuseable links. These are generally located not far from the battery, they're a black bump in the wire, measure for power on each side.

 

Right on. Thank you sir.




alooks like someone’s been here before.....
any idea which one or how to tell?
whats the best way to check? Just poke through the insulation with test light grounded to battery or...?
thank you

 

No real way to tell without a wiring diagram.

Yes you can use a testlight, but a multimeter is better incase it's not carrying a full 12 volts across.

Most likely what happened was a wire burned up in that plug and they bypassed the stock wire for a little ways.
On a bullnose 80-86, there really isn't enough room to splice In a new plug without pulling the dash, so I ran a new feed wire for mine on the parking lights side, it's been going like that ever since. (roughly four years ago)

 

I see a black/orange stripe wire at the fuse link area
(kinda weird ford will use the same color code all the way!-))
it goes into the fuse link and one black (thats what color it is now anyway) wire comes out and into more
tape under the relay thing on fender.

Pulling tape...

thank you

 

After the fuse link it turns to something with green and into a 3 way splice or link into
a big lug black/orange stripe wire connect to relay or switch on fender well. positive side.

 

The 4 big lug wire feeds going to switch relay on fender well positive side..

1 (the biggest white or yellow) is glow plug and blinkers minimum
1 (the smallest white or yellow) is flashers/brakes
1 (black/orange stripe) is unknown but has 12v into the 3 wires at other side of fuse link.
1 (black/green stripe?) goes to fuse link and then 1 fat black and 1 smaller yellow over behind alternator.

 

Iirc they call those an "alternator shunt" something about sharing charging supply. At least that's what dodge used to call it.

Was the fuseable link bad?

 

hard to tell from pictures I know but I'm trying to make friends with two lynx. Figured after seeing Your old and new pics You'd dig it

 

No. Not on the 3 wires for the big lug black/orange stripe at switch/relay on fender wall.
there is 12v on the opposite side of the fuse link from the positive switch/relay on fender wall.
its the only wire that does nothing when we hook it up and turn stuff on....so feel like its the fuse link at
dash. Into it right now. Stopped for swig o coffee and cigarette...thinking of food...but had a big piece of
chocolate cake with peanut butter and half and half over it. Microwave 30 sec. pretty good...

any how

we have the fuse box down and not sure how power gets to it... the

 

Ombt: nice cat. They dig food. It’s the only way i have had critters come close enough to shoot pics of them standing still.

 

We pulled tape to locate fusible link at dash.
its located right at the height of e-brake bracket.
The black/orange stripe wire from headlight switch connector meets a black/orange stripe wire from fuse box ata
hard rubber fusible link (not the taped up kind).
a single black/orange stripe wire (same thick gauge as other 2) continues to wire harness connector (round) at
kick or foot area.

There is no (not any) 12v at this connector. Continuity test good back to both switch and fuse box.
the black/orange stripe wire at starter relay is at 12v and 12v on other side of fusible link from starter relay is 12v.

Wire at firewall round connector is black/orange stripe and not any volts.

somewhere in the wire harness at radiator support or drivers fender well is a live 12v wire that hasn’t caused a
problem up to now.

Not feeling the scab wire route at this point and leaving the live wire or scab and cut the wire.

Question 1
So we’ll pull a new wire from just beyond the fusible link from starter relay adding another fusible link for
the connection or just a butt joint?
Note: there are two wires just beyond this fLink. Black/orange stripe and what looks like white going to unknown.

QUESTION 2
are the connectors available that insert into the round connector on firewall side to complete the most ideal.
option 2....do another fusible link or butt joint on drivers fender well.

any input is appreciated.
thank you
best regards.