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I've been wiring the truck the past couple of weeks. Had a few 1 step forward & 2 steps backwards, but overall not to many issues.
I was dreading this task, but once I started, I actually enjoyed it. I used a Painless wiring kit that I bought from Summit for $249.
I started to annoy my wife because every time I got something to work, I'd drag her out to the garage to show her.
Still have the rear lights & fuel sending unit to do & then install the wire braiding over the wires.
Also still waiting for the Vintage Air to show up.
Oh and my brake lights don't work...I think it might be the switch, the hazards & turn signals do work though. Wired in the original style start button.... Still have to permantly mount the 2 gauges there. Those were one of the 1 step forward & more like 4 steps backward !
Still have to put the wire braiding on and then attach it to the firewall & inner fender. Put a connector in. In case i need to remove the cluster. I probably will have to when i install the AC. Need to disconnect the column to turn the steering wheel so the third spoke is at the bottom. Right now its blocking the view of the cluster.
I've been wiring the truck the past couple of weeks. Had a few 1 step forward & 2 steps backwards, but overall not to many issues.
I was dreading this task, but once I started, I actually enjoyed it. I used a Painless wiring kit that I bought from Summit for $249.
I started to annoy my wife because every time I got something to work, I'd drag her out to the garage to show her.
Still have the rear lights & fuel sending unit to do & then install the wire braiding over the wires.
Also still waiting for the Vintage Air to show up.
Oh and my brake lights don't work...I think it might be the switch, the hazards & turn signals do work though. Wired in the original style start button.... Still have to permantly mount the 2 gauges there. Those were one of the 1 step forward & more like 4 steps backward !
Still have to put the wire braiding on and then attach it to the firewall & inner fender. Put a connector in. In case i need to remove the cluster. I probably will have to when i install the AC. Need to disconnect the column to turn the steering wheel so the third spoke is at the bottom. Right now its blocking the view of the cluster.
I've been wiring the truck the past couple of weeks. Had a few 1 step forward & 2 steps backwards, but overall not to many issues.
I was dreading this task, but once I started, I actually enjoyed it. I used a Painless wiring kit that I bought from Summit for $249.
I started to annoy my wife because every time I got something to work, I'd drag her out to the garage to show her.
Still have the rear lights & fuel sending unit to do & then install the wire braiding over the wires.
Also still waiting for the Vintage Air to show up.
Oh and my brake lights don't work...I think it might be the switch, the hazards & turn signals do work though.
Wired in the original sty Put a connector in. In case i need to remove the cluster. I probably will have to when i install the AC. Need to disconnect the column to turn the steering wheel so the third spoke is at the bottom. Right now its blocking the view of the cluster.
Your steering column looks fine where it is, signal lever is in the correct spot, your adjustments need to be done by pulling the wheel..or adjusted at the tie rod ends
Looks great! I made my own dash and harness for a 1984 Volvo I raced a few years back and used these weatherpack connectors to keep the wiring clean. Still, I found it to be "fun" and was amazed when the gauges wound up working!! And this from a guy who hates wiring.
These are great connectors to use if you don't get pre-built harnesses: Weatherpack
Little OT, but since they didn't make a pre-made setup for that car, I had to get creative:
Your steering column looks fine where it is, signal lever is in the correct spot, your adjustments need to be done by pulling the wheel..or adjusted at the tie rod ends
What I think needs to be done is to disconnect the steering shaft from the DD coupler & turn the shaft & wheel 180deg,and that should bring the 3rd spoke to the bottom.
Then fine tune the centering of the wheel with the tie rod adjustments.
I don't think I can just pull the wheel & rotate it because the plastic thingy the horn wire goes into prevents that.
This steering wheel has the hub built into it & there is a small slot where the horn wire pokes up through it. Like a factory GM wheel
