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Ok I've looked on the site and searched a bit and had a couple ideas but I'm trying to do this on a small budget. I have a74 f100 ranger supercab 8' bed 2wd. The engine is a 390 I believe but in its older years has started to become less reliable and have constant carburetor issues. I want to put a newer more reliable engine, pref. fuel injection. I was looking into the f150 5.0. Mind you I'm not trying to break any land speed records or anything of the sort. All newer engines will have more hp and torque already most likely. I'm just trying to update the engine with a newer more reliable engine.. any one done any of this without redoing all the suspension etc etc. I know some small thing may change and that's ok but I'm not looking to make this a huge drawn out expensive/ extensive process. So what has been done that you know of or is similar to what I'm looking to do?
"Newer, more modern" DOES NOT equate to "more dependable"
When these trucks were new, they we're anytime, any weather, drive cross country and back stone cold dependable and reliable. Never once did we have to get an ECM reflashed, change a sensor, drive home in limp mode, and on the rare occurrence that they did break down, it did not require thousands of dollars of software upgrades, code readers and scan tools. It took two wrenches and a screwdriver and under 50 dollars in parts.
What you get with "newer, more modern!" drivetrains is marginally better MPG and cold starts, and slightly better upper cylinder wear.
Understand that the engine in your truck is over 40 years old. It's had 40 years to become unreliable. If you think a "newer, more modern!" drivetrain will run even at all 40 years from now, you are sadly mistaken.
Personally, from a veteran mechanics experienced standpoint, if you TRULY want dependable, reliable and ease of maintenance, rebuild your original drivetrain. Learn about carburetors and basic ignition theory. The old stuff can be built to make an easy, honest 400+ horsepower without once needing a laptop to tune it, and would roll 2 and 3 hundred thousand miles if you keep up with maintenance, and you'll never once need a scan tool, sensor, laptop or software upgrade to keep up with it.
"Newer, more modern" DOES NOT equate to "more dependable"
When these trucks were new, they we're anytime, any weather, drive cross country and back stone cold dependable and reliable. Never once did we have to get an ECM reflashed, change a sensor, drive home in limp mode, and on the rare occurrence that they did break down, it did not require thousands of dollars of software upgrades, code readers and scan tools. It took two wrenches and a screwdriver and under 50 dollars in parts.
What you get with "newer, more modern!" drivetrains is marginally better MPG and cold starts, and slightly better upper cylinder wear.
Understand that the engine in your truck is over 40 years old. It's had 40 years to become unreliable. If you think a "newer, more modern!" drivetrain will run even at all 40 years from now, you are sadly mistaken.
Personally, from a veteran mechanics experienced standpoint, if you TRULY want dependable, reliable and ease of maintenance, rebuild your original drivetrain. Learn about carburetors and basic ignition theory. The old stuff can be built to make an easy, honest 400+ horsepower without once needing a laptop to tune it, and would roll 2 and 3 hundred thousand miles if you keep up with maintenance, and you'll never once need a scan tool, sensor, laptop or software upgrade to keep up with it.
Consider it.
maybe I should add that I'm tired of having a carburetor to mess with.. i have replaced with new, rebuilt from ground up multiple times, even taken the carb to a old timer that knows them inside and out and had it rebuilt and gone through and the carb always starts to stick very soon after being redone, causing acceleration issues at start up and even stalling out on the road while driving issues. I know there is good and bad between newer and older systems and that the older systems have less items that can go wrong in general. I'm not worried about creating a high horse power truck. I want it to drive reliably without issues so I dont have to worry if my mom takes it to use. As far as I'm concerned the carb on it is not reliable at all reguardless what is done to it. And buying another new one to me is a waste of money for it to just act up again in a year or less. I would also like it to get more than 7 miles to the gallon. If changing to an efi system or newer engine then I'm not against it. I'm not totally against keeping the original 390 but its had it use at around 250k, and I am leaning towards a new engine all together.. just trying to see all options with that to decide which way I want to go
OK, I can understand that. Carburetors have always been more dependable than computer controlled garbage for me, and I've worked on and driven both for over 40 years. That's why my 78 Ford is my daily driver and the new Jeep sits in the driveway.
However, if I knew my mother or wife were driving my vehicle, like you said, I'd rather they have EFI. Women don't understand "pump the gas twice, pull out the choke, and let it idle for two minutes". Women understand "turn the key and go" which also precludes them from anything diesel as well.
And I can't deny MPG as well. My 78 F-250 gets 11-13 MPG. My new Jeep gets about 18 mpg. Gas is expensive.
As far as horsepower and torque is concerned? A new coyote 5.0 mustang only makes 460hp 420tq, whereas factory stock boss and SCJ Mustangs were making more than that 50 years ago without turbos, computers or EFI. Hell, a stock 390FE was making 401hp 420tq in the early 60s. Stock, dependable daily drivers.
A new four barrel carb with a warranty should last you far more than a year. A new carb is about 350 dollars. A F.A.S.T. or Holley EFI system is about 1300. A junkyard EFI 460 or 351W should cost about 500 dollars with everything, and will physically bolt in place, but you'll have to figure out how to wire everything ((EEC IV? something) to work. A 5.0 mustang or explorer 302 roller engine might work for you as well. Cheap, good on gas, plenty of power, fits in your truck.
A 302 would be a good choice for your truck, but it won't touch a properly running 390 for HP and TQ. Better fuel economy could be had though.
But there are easy engine swaps, and hard engine swaps. A 390 to 302 swap would be pretty straight forward, but there is still a lot of work involved.
You would need all new accessories, possibly a radiator, new transmission, engine and trans mounts, bunch of hoses and brackets and other misc stuff.
If you are wanting an EFI conversion then...that's a whole level of difficulty increase over the engine swap. 0
I don't know how hard it would be to swap in a speed density setup from the '80s but I would guess that you would need to wire in a new electronic fuel pump, and swap in a wire harness and computer and fuse box from an 80's pickup then splice adapt everything to work with your gauges. Shoot...I am getting exhausted just typing about it....
I think the advice that was given above was solid. Put your time an money into figuring out what is wrong with your existing set up. Carbs usually foul up because of dirty fuel, your tank might be full of sludge after all these years.
If you really want efi put one of the modern Holley efi kits on it. Still not a simple project, but a lot easier and cheaper than an engine sway efi conversion.
I have a built 390 in a 76 4x4 with 35" tires, 4:10 gears, and a C6...its tuned correctly and I can get 12 mph at highway speeds. In a 2wd with normal tires and the right transmission/gears, I would guess the mileage would be in the 15-18 mpg highway range, which would be close to what a 302 would get.
As far as horsepower and torque is concerned? A new coyote 5.0 mustang only makes 460hp 420tq, whereas factory stock boss and SCJ Mustangs were making more than that 50 years ago without turbos, computers or EFI. Hell, a stock 390FE was making 401hp 420tq in the early 60s. Stock, dependable daily drivers.
I have been trying for a long time, very unsuccessfully, to make this point to people. Every time I see an new "Coyote swap info needed!" thread pop up my brain goes into limp mode. I'm like "forget all the mess and cost of swapping a junkyard coyote in there...buy a built Ford Racing pushrod 302, make almost the same HP and save thousands of dollars and weeks of your time!" Everyone just tells me to go away...
Wow some strong opinions but opinions nonetheless. To answer your question "So what has been done that you know of or is similar to what I'm looking to do?"As your stock 390 makes a wopping anemic SAE Net 160HP for 1974 and probably much less by now, my vote is for a 1990's Explorer pushrod 5.0 which is good for 75 more net horsepower, EFI and undoubtedly better gas mileage, much lighter and more reliable especially for the family members you mentioned. Put in new bearings and gaskets, new exhaust and get an EFI pump for the tank. Hundreds have done it. Watch the many Youtube videos, it can be done pretty cheap. Get the ECU and engine harness with the engine, plug and play. Putting money into that 390 will get you more horsepower for sure but will also get you 7MPG.
Often, some (not all) of the members of this forum use this as a platform to rant so take it with a grain of salt. They are referred to as "CAVE" people. CITIZENS AGAINST VIRTUALLY EVERYTHING.
Also beware of “PWDRATPs” people who don’t read all the posts.
The OP asked for opinions and we both gave them. Also we both stated that a 302 would be a good swap for his truck, it just might be more difficult than he expects.
We are simply offering him some additional perspective...which is the OPs entire reason for starting a thread.
I'm assuming when you say 5.0 you're referring to a windsor motor, especially when you say you're on a small budget. If you want a "cheap" swap with some more mpg and a little more oomph I'd agree with Jetfixer on a mid 90's 5.0 windsor (or 5.8 windsor out of an F150 for that matter) with and EFI swap. Plus, if you ever decide to upgrade your 5.0/5.8, the windsor has very large aftermarket support.
If you want to keep your 390 and solve your fueling and reliability issue, gain a smidge of mpg, while going to EFI, I've had success with my Holley Sniper on my Bronco's 351M. It's probably not as cheap as swapping a junkyard 5.0, but it's pretty simple to install and if you do change engines later down the road you can use it on that one without removing the Sniper system from your truck. I'm actually going to be doing that on my Bronco when I swap out the 351M for a built 460 sometime later this year.
On to the history lesson.
Originally Posted by hail destroyer
As far as horsepower and torque is concerned? A new coyote 5.0 mustang only makes 460hp 420tq, whereas factory stock boss and SCJ Mustangs were making more than that 50 years ago without turbos, computers or EFI.
You're also comparing a new GT Mustang to the highest optioned first gen Mustang. You'd be better comparing a 351C first gen Mustang (300 bhp Wikipedia) to a new GT Mustang (460 bhp Wikipedia). Compare a first gen with a Boss 429 (375 bhp Wikipedia / Hemmings) to a new '20 Mustang Shelby GT500 (760 bhp Wikipedia) and it's really no comparison anymore even if the Boss was under rated. Bump the 429 to 500 bhp and it's still way behind the '20 GT500.
Originally Posted by VitaminC
I have been trying for a long time, very unsuccessfully, to make this point to people. Every time I see an new "Coyote swap info needed!" thread pop up my brain goes into limp mode. I'm like "forget all the mess and cost of swapping a junkyard coyote in there...buy a built Ford Racing pushrod 302, make almost the same HP and save thousands of dollars and weeks of your time!" Everyone just tells me to go away...
If you're comparing a Ford Racing 302 crate engine to an F150 Coyote (360 bhp Wikipedia) then I suppose they're around the same hp level. Crate engine is a long block (incomplete engine) for approximately $7500 and produces 340 bhp (Summitracing). Neither of those would be particularly inexpensive.
PWDRATPs, very amusing. At no time did the OP ask for opinions. Perhaps one should take their own advice and read the entire post? The word opinion does not even appear. He also didn't ask anyone for their perspective but it was given anyways. He asked "So what has been done that you know of or is similar to what I'm looking to do? Good stuff
PWDRATPs, very amusing. At no time did the OP ask for opinions. Perhaps one should take their own advice and read the entire post? The word opinion does not even appear. He also didn't ask anyone for their perspective but it was given anyways. He asked "So what has been done that you know of or is similar to what I'm looking to do? Good stuff
Stop acting like a baby, your making yourself look stupid.
Your 390 is a good engine. Put a Holley Sniper EFI throttle body injection on top of it.
If your engine is worn, rebuild it. You'll still be ahead of where you'd be with a swap imo. There are a lot of performance upgrades if you want to go that route.
If you decide to swap and you're near FL, let me have your 390.
a 2014+ chevy (bear with me) 5.3 can bolt in using your Ford FE motor mounts and a really basic square plate. I can make this plate for you. for $20 you can mount it in your truck and have one of the most affordable, fuel efficient and reliable engines out there. this is an LT motor, not LS. they pair with a 6l80e 6 speed autos. I went from 8 mpg to 16 mpg. It idles quite as could be at 500 rpm and revs like a big block with a little bit of a cam. You can go 6 months to a year without raising your hood.
I've heard all the arguments for reliability of the original motors and I use to be one of the people making those arguments. Let's just say don't knock it till you've tried it.
When you look into a coyote swap you'll realize its the opposite of practical.