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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Valve lash adjustment.

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Old Apr 18, 2020 | 04:23 PM
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Valve lash adjustment.

Ok, this is what I got. 1980 F100, with 300 I6. Step son heard a light ticking noise and decided to tighten all the rocker arms down tight. Now, as I understand, all I have to do to fix it is to loosen all the rocker arms and then bring each cylinder to top dead center and then tighten both the intake and exhaust to the point where i can no longer move the rods up and down, but can still spin them slightly with my fingers. The lifters are already preloaded, so the half turn or full turn to tighten isn't needed, would this be correct? Thanks in advance!
 
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Old Apr 18, 2020 | 05:28 PM
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Why would the lifters be pre-loaded already?

If you have bolts holding the rocker arms down, there is no adjustment, tighten them down and leave it. If you have nuts, then do your procedure and then turn them 1/2-3/4 turn to preload the lifter.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2020 | 05:35 PM
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Maybe I am misunderstanding what preload means, I thought that preload meant that there is oil already in the lifters, is that not correct? If that is the case, then I would not need to do the 1/2 to full turn. Correct? Right now, if I bring #1 cylinder to TDC, i can only adjust the fre play out of the lifter, it will not allow me to tighten 1/2 or a full turn, most i can do is close to a quarter turn
 
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Old Apr 18, 2020 | 06:43 PM
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They are positive stop style in this era, you just wind the rocker retaining nut down till it stops Someone has been working on chev;s previously I see.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2020 | 06:53 PM
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Yeah, Chevy's! This 1980 F100 has 90,000 orginal miles on it, couldn't pass it up! Been sitting since 95. So, each cylinder to TDC, then wind down until it stops, right? I've done transmission work, but not engine, and a newbie to Ford engines. Thanks for your input!
 
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Old Apr 18, 2020 | 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 80Fordf100
Yeah, Chevy's! This 1980 F100 has 90,000 orginal miles on it, couldn't pass it up! Been sitting since 95. So, each cylinder to TDC, then wind down until it stops, right? I've done transmission work, but not engine, and a newbie to Ford engines. Thanks for your input!
Does not even need to be TDC but no mistakes will be made if you do it at TDC compression for each cylinder. Just wind em down till they stop. Nut torque spec is 17 - 23 Ft Lbs (I always split it to 20 FT Lbs).

There is a procedure to check to see if everything is in spec. (Repeat for each cylinder at TDC compression) using lifter bleed-down wrench bottom the lifter and check the clearance between the rocker arm and the valve stem tip. Allowable 0.100" - 0.200". Desired 0.125"-0.175" . Use longer or shorter service push rods to achieve proper clearance if out of spec.

 
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Old Apr 18, 2020 | 07:13 PM
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Wow, sounds easy enough! I'll wind them all down at TDC, then torque them to 20. Thank you very much!
 
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Old Apr 19, 2020 | 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by 80Fordf100
Maybe I am misunderstanding what preload means, I thought that preload meant that there is oil already in the lifters, is that not correct? If that is the case, then I would not need to do the 1/2 to full turn. Correct? Right now, if I bring #1 cylinder to TDC, i can only adjust the fre play out of the lifter, it will not allow me to tighten 1/2 or a full turn, most i can do is close to a quarter turn
This works the same as a Chevrolet though, but you have really no adjustment. Your 1/4 turn or less is a sign you are borderline loose. You could do the same thing you do on a Chev, follow the firing order, and check each cylinder. If you find one or two where you can't even get the lash out before the nut stops, that is a sign the head/valves need re-working. Welcome to Fords.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2020 | 08:20 AM
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Thank you for the heads up! Appreciate your input! I'll let you know how it goes.
 
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