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Hello my FTE Brothers and Sistas , I wanted to wait , until I had all the Info , to fill in all the blanks in this Novel, most of you know The Hog Hauler is dead, not completely dead but just front end Dead, She still has plenty of Muscle left in her power train , and her shoes are purdy fancy if ya ask me ,lol,
alright let’s get down to the nuts on faulty workmanship
For the second time the truck went in for a head job , ha , I know , should , have , gotten , it done , more often , Wrong , what I’d like to point out here is , when you go in for the Oil Cooler , The Manifold and Egr Cooler ( if installed) has to have New gaskets , according to Diesel Tech Ron , during Install you leave the Top bolt loose when Installing the Egr cooler , and after the back connection is tight , with the manifold bolts snug , its then you will complete ALL Bolt sequence torque along with cooler bolt ,
this work was done two years ago, my truck sits with blown heads caused by a loose EGR Cooler , the hot coolant hit the Cylinders and Scorched the H3ll out of them , so now my block is toast , you ask if ARP studs would have held , I think I’d be playing with the crank or even a broke piston arm or send the rods and Valves flying out of my hood , thank you ford , for installing head bolts to my Saga, The heads look good , all but the rust gunk from the block , maybe bore the cylinders a tad larger , do you guys think two years on workmanship should be covered , knowing two techs stated this cooler or head was leaking for a while ?
Not challenging you personally Scott. It's just my thought process of determining how failures occur, so I challenge everything, including my own thoughts.
I'm still having a hard time visualizing how this occurred. Possible, but probable? You'd have a loose connection with exhaust pressure to a varying degree, which would suck up the coolant. The O-ring would have to wear from the constant movement to the point where coolant would escape under pressure (see a leak ever?) and exceed the exhaust pressure. And I've never seen a time where the intake manifold didn't have some turbo pressure.
The intake/exhaust pressures can be very low, and coolant pressure in psi much higher, but that drops as soon as the coolant escapes the seal, and for volume to be high it would have to be quite a leak. Anyway, just trying to get my head around that causation.
I don't think studs would have helped, I'm of the mind that studs are a false god. Otherwise, the new god would not be O-ringed heads. I think the heads are more problematic.
But if those intake to EGR bolts were loose from the shops work, I'd take up any consideration that is was human error and warrantable. But I have a special attitude towards that viewpoint.
No Challenge Accepted , lol , Thank you for your input , the only leak was oil, that came from the front cover , No coolant ever hit the ground, under the test that was done , the truck was smoking blue/ black smoke then it went to the white , in that test , the engine hydro locked , they pulled # 2and 4 glo plug and the egr valve and found the intake wet, when I changed the EGR valve four days Pryor , it was dry, along with the normal sensor cleaning , AIT2, map, or I missed the consistency of damp to dry soot, the way my driveway is ,slops downward , having the nose down , I was going to call today on their Warranty of loose parts and see where they stand , not saying anything about the heads or scorched cylinders at that point, not sure when I’ll spring that info on them , but before the End of the call for sure, on the repair order I did pay for a EGR and Turbo kit along with a New OEM oil Cooler .
Scott I sent you a PM, but each layer of the onion peeled back is more info. Did the shop in question do all the work prior to failure? As in doing heads twice, 3 oil coolers, BP EGR cooler... Or had you already started going to the latest place? There's a lot going on here...
It might get you some "goodwill" if the one shop both you and I know did all the major work...
Scott
Jeez that sucks it's never a good time for catastrophic fail. But the way the world is now just complicates it no doubt
Sounds like inner Egr cooler fail in my mind and you likely checked function of your oil periodically so that points to material/construction/thermal cycle failure (a non typical fail)
Personally I'd consider a short block possibly long block since it hydro lock
Scott I sent you a PM, but each layer of the onion peeled back is more info. Did the shop in question do all the work prior to failure? As in doing heads twice, 3 oil coolers, BP EGR cooler... Or had you already started going to the latest place? There's a lot going on here...
It might get you some "goodwill" if the one shop both you and I know did all the major work...
Scott
The Onion has done been peeled , Now the cryin starts lol, not the same shop at first, had a Reputable Mechanic do the heads and coolers on the first go round , our place LC did the oil cooler and BP Egr cooler the second go round ,
Originally Posted by BLADE35
Jeez that sucks it's never a good time for catastrophic fail. But the way the world is now just complicates it no doubt
Sounds like inner Egr cooler fail in my mind and you likely checked function of your oil periodically so that points to material/construction/thermal cycle failure (a non typical fail)
Personally I'd consider a short block possibly long block since it hydro lock
yea , lost a lot of work with no truck, so a possibility Bpd could warranty ?, it’s been since 2014, you have my interest on the internal fail of the coolers , is there a way besides saw it into to see ?
I think that would have been a good test , thanks for posting that Jack, in our case if caught early enough , and not hydrolocked , I was taking the truck to the shop for the oil leak , front cover ,gloplugs and harnesses and maybe a Injector , had No idea the heads were about to fail untill I seen white smoke out my mirror , interesting vid I’ll need to rig something up on the cooler and test .
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