y 95 doesn’t prime every time I turn the key to acc. So I have found that if I select rear (which doesn’t work. I’ll get to that) when the key is on off position. Turn the key and switch to front maybe a half second after turning they key to acc it will half *** prime. Then I turn back to off and then back to acc it will prime then I crank it up. Anyways buckle your seat belt, because I’m about to start describing stuff and I’m a mess. So list of issues regarding this thread.
1. rear tank is full but cant use it. I can literally be driving switch over to rear and it just cold turkey dies. It kills the truck no matter what. I replaced both fuel pumps because I couldn’t use rear in the beginning and I had a crossflow issue. All was smooth after removing everything in my tool box and bed and removed bed with 4 men total. Long bed is heavy btw. Anyways worked fine couple months then again rear stopped working. Been running on front for a while.
2. front tank reads past f no matter how much gas I have. I rely on my truck to make money. I’m a HVAC subcontractor in Houston. I average 1,000 miles a week. It’s my personal truck used for work and personal needs. I have a heavy foot. I’m doing 80 average loaded down with condensers or not. I need to rebuild engine. Major blow by. I have the breather off the valve cover that supposed to go to the air box go to a old quart bottle that I empty when needed. I check my fluids More than I check my phone. I probably put oil in in every other day or so. Power steering fluid a lot. I mean **** I have dogged and continue to drive like that *******. And the 4.9 i6 blows my mind more than it blows oil. Bullet proof engine on my momma. Idk where I was going with all this but yeah. Oh yeah. Idle is all over. Sometimes is shakes bad so I turn ac off and it shakes normal I guess you could say. Sometimes I have to turn it on to fix the idle. It’s a moody ****. And I’ma dumb young ****. I have more issues but tried to only touch the fuel pumps. Sorry if you are still reading this to the end. I need some advice and lead way to **** idek what I even need it for

 

Given the symptoms in your novel I suspect the fuel tank selector switch may be bad. As you know your truck has a pile of issues. Start with testing and possibly replacing the fuel tank selector switch.

 

replaced switch, tank now works but bogs down and spit and sputters. When you turn the key and hear the pump prime. The rear tank prime is barley heard. More of a vibration the front tank prime is heard clear as day

 

It appears to me that you have a problem with your ground wires on the rear left frame rail. Your gas gauge is pegged for the same reason. Your ignition switch may also be going out, not the key switch but the switch lower on the steering column. The 300 is an awesome engine but I think you need to think about buying the same truck just one that is in better shape and use the old one as a parts donor.

 

Rent a fuel pressure tester to verify the pressure is good.


The rear pump may be bad. On the other hand a noisy pump could indicate a bad front pump. Verify pressure on both tanks.

 

The fuel pumps and fuel level senders are grounded at G100, located on the driver side of the radiator support.




Based on the OP's last response replacing the fuel tank selector switch resolved the wacky flip between tanks starting ritual.

 

I stand corrected. But I still think it's a ground issue.

 

I replaced the fuel tank selector switch, and now it starts on the rear tank for once and it’ll run a very hesitantly. Now I hooked up a fuel pressure Gauge I got 55 psi at the front tank and 20 psi at the rear tank

 

I’m good on the comment about buying a new one and using old one for parts. Look how gorgeous she is

 

55 PSI on the front tank is good. 20 PSI is way too low.

 

Is oil leaking on the right hand side of the engine facing the truck?

 

Yes ma’am, if you are a sir I stand corrected, my apologies. But it’s 2020. It also leaks oil due to Blow by, caused by the piston rings I’m assuming from all the research and all the other minor repairs. Changed Pcv fitting on the rear side of the valve cover. 4.9 straight 6. Also replaced the hose. The color of the blow by use to be light brown like chocolate milk. Now it is the color of the oil. It use to run through water/ antifreeze but not leak it anywhere. Suspected a blow head gasket but quit disappearing. I have a funky idle. Replaced iac. My timing was dumb asf. Pushed it till it lost all power and was glowing red at manifolds and exhaust. I have another thread about all that if you are interested. Was The pin holding the gear on the shaft of the distributor. Snapped and was running lean or rich idk. That was over 20,000-30,000 Miles ago ( rough estimate) I try to change my oil every 2,500-3,000 miles. I check my fluids all day everyday. I drive a average of 800-1,000 miles a week. I average 80 down the highway. I may dawg it but I take care of it. Waiting till all this moisture is out the air to do a rebuild

 

There is a push rod cover on the engine right side. It looks like a panel with four bolts I think. Only on the 4.9. It has a cork gasket and when it fails it will leak like a sieve. Not hard to replace the gasket but if you do the bolt torque is important. 18-27 INCH POUNDS ... Sandy uh Sir Sandy.

 

Part of your problem may be the tank selector valve. I've had to replace the one on my '94 diesel twice. The problem I had was it would pull from rear tank but the return fuel would go to the front tank thus overfilling it. Discovered the problem when diesel started draining out the front filler cap.

 

A 1995 gas engine F-series truck and Bronco does not have a tank selector valve.