2000 EXCURSION ELECTRICAL ISSUE.
I TURN THE VEHICLE OFF AND REMOVE THE KEY. WHEN I OPEN THE DOOR THE WARNING GONG GOES OFF INSIDE THE CAB AS WELL AS MY STEREO LIGHTS FLASH OFF AND ON. THE FRONT AND REAR BLOWERS RUN EVEN WITH THE KEY OFF AND REMOVED. ALL ITEMS THAT SHOULD BE POWERED DOWN ARE STILL ACTIVE. I CAN ROLL DOWN THE POWER WINDOWS, TURN ON LIGHTS, STEREO, ETC…. ALL WITH THE KEY OUT OF THE VEHICLE. THOUGHTS? BAD IGNITION? HOW DO I TEST THIS?
I CAN PULL THE BLOWER RELAY UNDER THE HOOD AND IT SAVES MY BATTERIES, AS LONG AS I MAKE SURE EVERYTHING ELSE IS TURNED OFF. ANY HELP YOU GUYS HAVE WOULD BE NICE. THE LAST TIME THIS HAPEND IT LASTED FOR A DAY OR TWO AND THEN RANDOMLY STOPPED. NO LOSS OF POWER. STARTS RIGHT UP.
2000 FORD EXCURSION - 7.3 POWER STROKE, 4X4, 235,000 MILES. 5" EXHAUST, STAGE 1 COLD AIR INTAKE, BULLY DOG, HELLWIG REAR ANTI-SWAY BAR, 5000 LBS AIR BAGS, FORD F350 SUPER DUTY REAR SPRINGS, FORD F450 FRONT SPINGS WITH DUAL FRONT SHOCK SYSTEM(BEST MOD YET), DUAL FRONT STEERING STABILIZERS, 9 PLACE SEATING CONFIGURATION, 150 GPH FASS PUMP, 1/2" FUEL PICKUP IN TANK WITH 1/2" LINES ALL THE WAY TO THE FRONT, ALLISON TORQUE CONVERTER, HD TRANS REBUILD, MILE MARKER FRONT 4X4 HUBS, ETC…...
Sounds like the ignition switch is not fully rotating back to the OFF position when the key is placed in that position or the switch has failed internally.
Things to check:
Can you turn the key all the way to ACCY and only accessory items work? If you then turn the key back to OFF, do things turn off normally or not?
There is a linkage that connects the lock cylinder (what you turn with the key) with the actual switch itself. It sounds like there might be excessive play in that arrangement so that the switch is not fully returned to the OFF position in synchronization with the lock cylinder. If there is no evidence of excessive play in the external linkage, then it sounds like the switch is bad internally.
Which, if any, have power (none should)?
If all have power, it's a linkage problem. If only one or two have power, it's either a faulty switch or there's a cross-feed somewhere downstream. To further isolate, disconnect the ignition switch and repeat above checks. If all are now dead, it's the switch. If one or more are still hot, there's a cross-circuit that's going to be much harder to find.







