Check brake system and advance autotrack lights blink occasionally. Wondering about chafing in wiring around abs sensor. Read something about that. Battery draws down overnight. Wondering where to look. Thanks in advance.

 

I just checked my 14 and it's drawing around 250, 239 mils shouldn't draw a good battery down in a week let alone over night. with out any other info to go on I'd start with the battery. you might have something intermittent that will add to it, that will be fun to find. I would start with battery to determine condition and charging system to be sure it's fully charged when you park it for the night. Jim

 

A quarter amp is completely normal until all of the modules go to sleep. Unless you waited the required 40 minute after touching ANYTHING, you're probably misinterpreting the results.

 

New battery. Waitedfor module to shut down. Pulled all the fuses one by one in fuse box. Pulled power from alternator. I might be wrong on the miliamps. My buddy is a mechanic and he said there is significant draw.
just called him it was 2.39 amps.

 

2.39 A is a way different ball game that 239 mA, like by a factor of 10X..... Was that measured with an in-line ammeter (after the 40 minute timeout) or was that "measured" using the "voltage across a fuse" ( a HIGHLY inaccurate method)?

And what, exactly, happened when you did that?

 

Amps after 40 minute shutdown. Not one fuse or relay changed the draw. We were wondering if it is a possible short in the fuse block.

 

Maybe.

Could also be a damaged or misinterpreted meter/reading.

 

Multiple meters. First one blew the ten and fuse

 

You likely mean "blew the 10 AMP internal fuse" of the multimeter.
Recommend to your mechanic to purchase an AMP clamp to attach to the multimeter.

1) Compete a total scan of the vehicle and post the faults, delete the faults again, cycle the key and read all the controllers again.
2) Post the difference of the two scans, something may stand out.
3) Attach the AMP clamp to the negative cable and read the amperage draw.
4) Make sure the doors are latched (leave them or one open) and the hood is latched.
5) Read the meter and remember that 30 to 50 milliamps is acceptable.
6) Look for or search for any added equipment that is not Ford designed (disconnect each device one at a time and look for the amperage drop)
7) With the AMP clamp, you can narrow down each circuit without disconnecting anything and measuring the parasitic draw.
8) If the suspect circuit if found, read the AMP clamp for the magic number and scan the vehicle again. The scan provides the disconnected controller and offers a hint.
9) With an Oscilloscope and NO scan tools attached and point 4 observed, pins 6 and 14 are CAN high speed, pins 3 and 11 are CAN medium speed.
10) There should be NO activity on either network if the truck is in sleep mode.
11) Activity means there is one or more controllers that are awake.

This is the correct way to measure a parasitic draw and have a 100% success rate. So will you with a Professional Technician.

 

My 2012 had the same problem. Ended up being the rear window defrost, Not saying that's your problem, but it's worth checking out