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If I can't get glow plug #7 out of the hole, how can I purge fluid from cylinder 7 if I need to change injectors? I have a MightyVac somewhere in the garage as well as an oil extractor that requires shop air (not sure I have enough air hose to reach the street where the truck is parked).
In re-reading the thread FordTruckNoob also makes reference to a glow plug removal tool which looks promising but scary. Has anyone here used that tool? If so, does it work some/most/almost all of the time?
Finally, before I spend a bunch of money on a tuner, injectors, a turbo rebuild/upgrade, up-pipes, etc I think I'd like to revisit a compression test. My last effort failed because my gauge didn't hold pressure (we think due to the lack of check valve). With my experience, I hope this effort will work this time.
For what it's worth, a 1/4 inch drive socket won't bind against the rocker arm when pulling the glow plugs.
In addition to giving better clearance, the 1/4" drive equipment is a little insurance against getting too ham-fisted and breaking the hex off the top of the glowplug. I recommend bringing the engine up to operating temperature then attempting to loosen the glowplug.
Yeah, you don't need anything more than a 1/4 inch drive socket to get them to come out, anyway. And you're right. It will save on a potentially much larger job if thing's go sideways.
If the question is what to do about fluid in the cylinder when the GP cannot come out, don't worry about it. Pull the injector and crank it over by hand to eject 90% of any fluid, follow up with suction from a rubber hose on a soap bottle pump to get the last bits.
100% leave that GP alone! If the problem is a swollen tip your efforts to remove it will break it off. Whole new level of hell to fix.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.