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my setup does not use a Schrader valve. I’ve got the m10 in the glow plug hole with a female 1/8 NPT that goes to the grease whip that then goes to a 1/8 FNPT to a male 7/16 flare fitting that goes to the quick coupler that goes into the compression line.
Just below the gauge and pointed toward the passenger side of the truck, is that the pressure release button?
I’m getting pressure upstream of the quick connect (based on my putting my thumb on the unconnected quick coupler)
yes - truck running fine except for hard starts. I purchased the shim kit to see if it helps.
glow plugs and compression test were just a bonus since I was already in there. O rings are on the shelf as a just-in-case.
The only modification to the write up is the 1/8 FNPT - 7/16 JIC flare adapter. The HF kit in the writeup assumes the quick connector has a native 1/8 NPT fitting. In my HF kit, the Quick coupler has a Female 7/16 flared end.
At the risk of sounding dumb, I’ve got an idea why I’m not getting a reading on my gauge.
when the cylinder pushes upward it creates compression, it passes through the glow plug hole through the fittings and up to the gauge.
however, when the cylinder retracts, I believe the compression is lost and the compressed air returns through the same line through which it came ... until the cylinder fires again and momentarily creates pressure.
I don’t believe there is anything in my setup that holds the compressed air in the line.
There should be a check valve in the gauge. If that is faulty thwn you won't get a reading. Does the needle move at all when cranking? If not, there is a blockage somewhere.
There should be a check valve in the gauge. If that is faulty thwn you won't get a reading. Does the needle move at all when cranking? If not, there is a blockage somewhere.
thanks. I’ll have to test for that if I have the correct plumbing.
Work has been super busy but I finally got the truck engine buttoned up. I didn’t get to replace the stuck glow plug on 7 or compression test the cylinders but I did replace 7 glow plugs and inserted shims in all eight injectors. I also drilled the spacers as mine were the old style. Separately, I also installed the RiffRaff braided fuel lines that eliminate the check valve in the fuel lines.
The good news is that the truck started after about five seconds of cranking WITHOUT having to feather the fuel pedal. Even in the Southern California warm weather it hasn’t done that for quite a while. The truck also ran well right from the start. In the past, it seemed like I was running on three cylinders for the first few minutes until the truck warmed up.
I’ve seen people question whether the shims are worth it. For the $100 I spent on the shims, I would say yes.
Special thanks goes out to FordTruckNoob who was very patient and helpful. Thanks also to Sous.
You and your adventure here came into my mind the other day. Thanks for closing the loop on your project and providing your first hand experience with us.
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