84 f150 conversion major help
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
So it's almost time to start this beast of a project. I'm waiting on the carb, some vacuum line since all mine is cut out, and new spark plugs because the amount fuel its dumping ruined my new ones. I'm wondering more where to wire up the distributor and how to run the vacuum lines. My first thought on the power was just run it straight to the battery but now I'm starting to think that might not be a good idea because it would be live all the time and kill my battery. So does anyone have any suggestions on the vacuum lines and the wiring?
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,912
Likes: 4,123
From: Angier, NC
You can still use the factory wiring harness and make a little change to it and would be a whole lot easier than redoing the full wiring harness with after market.
You could have used the factory wire to trigger a relay (3 or 4 wires to wire up) to send a full 12 volts to that HEI.
We will see what we can do for on the wiring.
Dave ----
You could have used the factory wire to trigger a relay (3 or 4 wires to wire up) to send a full 12 volts to that HEI.
We will see what we can do for on the wiring.
Dave ----
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
You can still use the factory wiring harness and make a little change to it and would be a whole lot easier than redoing the full wiring harness with after market.
You could have used the factory wire to trigger a relay (3 or 4 wires to wire up) to send a full 12 volts to that HEI.
We will see what we can do for on the wiring.
Dave ----
You could have used the factory wire to trigger a relay (3 or 4 wires to wire up) to send a full 12 volts to that HEI.
We will see what we can do for on the wiring.
Dave ----
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,984
Likes: 2,738
From: Virginia
You still have the wire going to it correct? Go ahead and take the old coil out, but mark the wires that go to it. One of them should be white with a blue dot or blue stripe. That's the one you want.
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is that the hot I'm assuming? Or the ground
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,984
Likes: 2,738
From: Virginia
Hot wire. The other wire on the coil will leave. You should have a ground wire bolted to the side of the coil mount, going across and bolted to the engine. Keep that. That can be your ground point.
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sounds like a plan to me. Now what about the issue of vacuum line routing? I'm assuming since the new distributor is vacuum advanced unlike the current computer advance, I wont be using the stock diagram
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
Nothing will be stock. But you can pattern it off how they did it in the 60's and early 70's. I would not hook the distributor vacuum line up right away. I would get it all wired up and running, all vacuum ports you do not need plugged off. Mess with it and get it running, get it idling down close to where it needs to be, and then set the timing with a timing light. Then lock the distributor down.
Then mess with the idle mixture screw, get it idling smooth, and set the idle where it sounds the best. You can even take it for a test ride.
The last thing I would do is hook the distributor vacuum line up. With it warmed up and idling slow, start pulling vacuum caps off the carb. If the cap is sucking air, you do not want it. If you find one that is not sucking air, hold your finger over the port and then raise the engine rpms a little bit, see if it starts sucking on your finger with the rpms up, and then stops when you let it idle again. When you find the port that acts like this, use that port to run a vacuum line over to the distributor. Then take it for another test ride, make sure it doesn't rattle or ping.
Then mess with the idle mixture screw, get it idling smooth, and set the idle where it sounds the best. You can even take it for a test ride.
The last thing I would do is hook the distributor vacuum line up. With it warmed up and idling slow, start pulling vacuum caps off the carb. If the cap is sucking air, you do not want it. If you find one that is not sucking air, hold your finger over the port and then raise the engine rpms a little bit, see if it starts sucking on your finger with the rpms up, and then stops when you let it idle again. When you find the port that acts like this, use that port to run a vacuum line over to the distributor. Then take it for another test ride, make sure it doesn't rattle or ping.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Nothing will be stock. But you can pattern it off how they did it in the 60's and early 70's. I would not hook the distributor vacuum line up right away. I would get it all wired up and running, all vacuum ports you do not need plugged off. Mess with it and get it running, get it idling down close to where it needs to be, and then set the timing with a timing light. Then lock the distributor down.
Then mess with the idle mixture screw, get it idling smooth, and set the idle where it sounds the best. You can even take it for a test ride.
The last thing I would do is hook the distributor vacuum line up. With it warmed up and idling slow, start pulling vacuum caps off the carb. If the cap is sucking air, you do not want it. If you find one that is not sucking air, hold your finger over the port and then raise the engine rpms a little bit, see if it starts sucking on your finger with the rpms up, and then stops when you let it idle again. When you find the port that acts like this, use that port to run a vacuum line over to the distributor. Then take it for another test ride, make sure it doesn't rattle or ping.
Then mess with the idle mixture screw, get it idling smooth, and set the idle where it sounds the best. You can even take it for a test ride.
The last thing I would do is hook the distributor vacuum line up. With it warmed up and idling slow, start pulling vacuum caps off the carb. If the cap is sucking air, you do not want it. If you find one that is not sucking air, hold your finger over the port and then raise the engine rpms a little bit, see if it starts sucking on your finger with the rpms up, and then stops when you let it idle again. When you find the port that acts like this, use that port to run a vacuum line over to the distributor. Then take it for another test ride, make sure it doesn't rattle or ping.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Nothing will be stock. But you can pattern it off how they did it in the 60's and early 70's. I would not hook the distributor vacuum line up right away. I would get it all wired up and running, all vacuum ports you do not need plugged off. Mess with it and get it running, get it idling down close to where it needs to be, and then set the timing with a timing light. Then lock the distributor down.
Then mess with the idle mixture screw, get it idling smooth, and set the idle where it sounds the best. You can even take it for a test ride.
The last thing I would do is hook the distributor vacuum line up. With it warmed up and idling slow, start pulling vacuum caps off the carb. If the cap is sucking air, you do not want it. If you find one that is not sucking air, hold your finger over the port and then raise the engine rpms a little bit, see if it starts sucking on your finger with the rpms up, and then stops when you let it idle again. When you find the port that acts like this, use that port to run a vacuum line over to the distributor. Then take it for another test ride, make sure it doesn't rattle or ping.
Then mess with the idle mixture screw, get it idling smooth, and set the idle where it sounds the best. You can even take it for a test ride.
The last thing I would do is hook the distributor vacuum line up. With it warmed up and idling slow, start pulling vacuum caps off the carb. If the cap is sucking air, you do not want it. If you find one that is not sucking air, hold your finger over the port and then raise the engine rpms a little bit, see if it starts sucking on your finger with the rpms up, and then stops when you let it idle again. When you find the port that acts like this, use that port to run a vacuum line over to the distributor. Then take it for another test ride, make sure it doesn't rattle or ping.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,984
Likes: 2,738
From: Virginia
It's easier for me to make a list, if I forget anything someone will chime in.
1. Vacuum hose for the brake booster. This should hook right back up like it originally was.
2. Vacuum hose for the firewall plastic tree. This should go from manifold vacuum up to the tree. The tree usually had a vacuum line running over to a vacuum can and other lines that feed the HVAC system on the pass side of the engine compartment. And another line running down the backbone of the transmission if you had a c6 automatic.
3. Vacuum hose going to the PCV valve in the valve cover. This should hook back up to it's original spots on both ends.
4. Another hose going from the valve cover to the aircleaner. This is optional if you are not running the original aircleaner.
5. Short hose running from the back of the carb to the pull-off on the side of the carb. This will depend on what carb you end up running.
6. Hot air choke system lines. This will also depend on the carb. If you are running a Amazon/China carb, a lot of them come with a full electric choke, so this may not be needed.
1. Vacuum hose for the brake booster. This should hook right back up like it originally was.
2. Vacuum hose for the firewall plastic tree. This should go from manifold vacuum up to the tree. The tree usually had a vacuum line running over to a vacuum can and other lines that feed the HVAC system on the pass side of the engine compartment. And another line running down the backbone of the transmission if you had a c6 automatic.
3. Vacuum hose going to the PCV valve in the valve cover. This should hook back up to it's original spots on both ends.
4. Another hose going from the valve cover to the aircleaner. This is optional if you are not running the original aircleaner.
5. Short hose running from the back of the carb to the pull-off on the side of the carb. This will depend on what carb you end up running.
6. Hot air choke system lines. This will also depend on the carb. If you are running a Amazon/China carb, a lot of them come with a full electric choke, so this may not be needed.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
It's easier for me to make a list, if I forget anything someone will chime in.
1. Vacuum hose for the brake booster. This should hook right back up like it originally was.
2. Vacuum hose for the firewall plastic tree. This should go from manifold vacuum up to the tree. The tree usually had a vacuum line running over to a vacuum can and other lines that feed the HVAC system on the pass side of the engine compartment. And another line running down the backbone of the transmission if you had a c6 automatic.
3. Vacuum hose going to the PCV valve in the valve cover. This should hook back up to it's original spots on both ends.
4. Another hose going from the valve cover to the aircleaner. This is optional if you are not running the original aircleaner.
5. Short hose running from the back of the carb to the pull-off on the side of the carb. This will depend on what carb you end up running.
6. Hot air choke system lines. This will also depend on the carb. If you are running a Amazon/China carb, a lot of them come with a full electric choke, so this may not be needed.
1. Vacuum hose for the brake booster. This should hook right back up like it originally was.
2. Vacuum hose for the firewall plastic tree. This should go from manifold vacuum up to the tree. The tree usually had a vacuum line running over to a vacuum can and other lines that feed the HVAC system on the pass side of the engine compartment. And another line running down the backbone of the transmission if you had a c6 automatic.
3. Vacuum hose going to the PCV valve in the valve cover. This should hook back up to it's original spots on both ends.
4. Another hose going from the valve cover to the aircleaner. This is optional if you are not running the original aircleaner.
5. Short hose running from the back of the carb to the pull-off on the side of the carb. This will depend on what carb you end up running.
6. Hot air choke system lines. This will also depend on the carb. If you are running a Amazon/China carb, a lot of them come with a full electric choke, so this may not be needed.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
It's easier for me to make a list, if I forget anything someone will chime in.
1. Vacuum hose for the brake booster. This should hook right back up like it originally was.
2. Vacuum hose for the firewall plastic tree. This should go from manifold vacuum up to the tree. The tree usually had a vacuum line running over to a vacuum can and other lines that feed the HVAC system on the pass side of the engine compartment. And another line running down the backbone of the transmission if you had a c6 automatic.
3. Vacuum hose going to the PCV valve in the valve cover. This should hook back up to it's original spots on both ends.
4. Another hose going from the valve cover to the aircleaner. This is optional if you are not running the original aircleaner.
5. Short hose running from the back of the carb to the pull-off on the side of the carb. This will depend on what carb you end up running.
6. Hot air choke system lines. This will also depend on the carb. If you are running a Amazon/China carb, a lot of them come with a full electric choke, so this may not be needed.
1. Vacuum hose for the brake booster. This should hook right back up like it originally was.
2. Vacuum hose for the firewall plastic tree. This should go from manifold vacuum up to the tree. The tree usually had a vacuum line running over to a vacuum can and other lines that feed the HVAC system on the pass side of the engine compartment. And another line running down the backbone of the transmission if you had a c6 automatic.
3. Vacuum hose going to the PCV valve in the valve cover. This should hook back up to it's original spots on both ends.
4. Another hose going from the valve cover to the aircleaner. This is optional if you are not running the original aircleaner.
5. Short hose running from the back of the carb to the pull-off on the side of the carb. This will depend on what carb you end up running.
6. Hot air choke system lines. This will also depend on the carb. If you are running a Amazon/China carb, a lot of them come with a full electric choke, so this may not be needed.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,912
Likes: 4,123
From: Angier, NC
As for the HVAC vacuum hose just make sure the hose that went to the firewall vacuum tree is plugged off for now.
You say the truck has an automatic with over drive? If so then someone that knows that transmission better will have to step in on how it gets hooked up.
Dave ----