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You should be able to program your fuel-air ratio to whatever you want either add fuel or remove it with an aftermarket system.
Im not sure on the sniper. lot of the aftermarket systems now a days don't have the ability to manually change settings. I know the Terminator X has the ability to self learn as well as be manually tuned but I don't think the Sniper has the ability to be manually tuned outside of setting displacement, camshaft, and redline.
Im not sure on the sniper. lot of the aftermarket systems now a days don't have the ability to manually change settings. I know the Terminator X has the ability to self learn as well as be manually tuned but I don't think the Sniper has the ability to be manually tuned outside of setting displacement, camshaft, and redline.
Yes they all have the ability to be tuned even the sniper. I had a quick look over the tuning software manual for the sniper and it is one of the easier ones to change and modify the config files.
So yes it can be tuned, all aftermarket EFI's can be tuned as all manufactures have software available that allows you to change the config files..
Yes they all have the ability to be tuned even the sniper. I had a quick look over the tuning software manual for the sniper and it is one of the easier ones to change and modify the config files.
So yes it can be tuned, all aftermarket EFI's can be tuned as all manufactures have software available that allows you to change the config files..
Well that's good to know. I was looking at the comparison on holley`s site and it was listing how some of them had external tuning and internal tuning and some just had only internal tuning.
Well that's good to know. I was looking at the comparison on holley`s site and it was listing how some of them had external tuning and internal tuning and some just had only internal tuning.
Here is a link to the tuning manual forgot to provide it in the initial post.
Interesting it looks like I could set cruise to be on the leaner side for economy and then set the load side around 12.3 for the most torque production. Atleast that is what my chart I have saved is showing the best torque range is 11.5:1 to 13.2:1 with 12.5:1 being for best power. I don't know if I would try to shoot for 16.3:1 for best economy. I think that is pushing it a little lean in my eyes I would probably move it around 15:1 if I have to go into the system and make physical changes.
I will let the self learning aspect to play through first and then make changes where need be.
What do you think about this solution? Only 1 wire to mess with. The price may actually be close if you figure the cost of the duraspark II distributor, ignition box, and the wires. This has it all built into it.
mine has an electric choke on it now but its wired to the ignition coil. When I swap to the hei i wont have that anymore
You will still have that. The wire that you run to power the HEI distributor is a 12v hot in run wire, you can splice into that to run your choke also if you want to keep it as is. Power to the old coil, power to the HEI, same thing, same wire. Keep that in mind when you do the swap, label that old coil wire.
You will still have that. The wire that you run to power the HEI distributor is a 12v hot in run wire, you can splice into that to run your choke also if you want to keep it as is. Power to the old coil, power to the HEI, same thing, same wire. Keep that in mind when you do the swap, label that old coil wire.
sounds like it would be simpler to wire it to the hei and kill the old module completely since it wont be doing anything
sounds like it would be simpler to wire it to the hei and kill the old module completely since it wont be doing anything
The old module? That will be gone, it's mounted to the old distributor.
All those wires going to the old distributor? Follow them back. You will find sensors and other wires along the way. Solenoids, relays, and it will all finally go through the firewall to the computer. All gone. All those colored vacuum lines. Gone.
The old module? That will be gone, it's mounted to the old distributor.
All those wires going to the old distributor? Follow them back. You will find sensors and other wires along the way. Solenoids, relays, and it will all finally go through the firewall to the computer. All gone. All those colored vacuum lines. Gone.
yeah I was planning on stripping the computer out completely. I figured it was only for the engine, unlike modern cars where even your headlights go through a god forsaken computer
You will still have some wires running around. One for the temp gauge, one for the oil pressure sending unit, couple to the new distributor, the one to the choke, etc.
You will still have some wires running around. One for the temp gauge, one for the oil pressure sending unit, couple to the new distributor, the one to the choke, etc.
yeah I know I'll still have a few. But it should be nearly as much
So it's almost time to start this beast of a project. I'm waiting on the carb, some vacuum line since all mine is cut out, and new spark plugs because the amount fuel its dumping ruined my new ones. I'm wondering more where to wire up the distributor and how to run the vacuum lines. My first thought on the power was just run it straight to the battery but now I'm starting to think that might not be a good idea because it would be live all the time and kill my battery. So does anyone have any suggestions on the vacuum lines and the wiring?
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