explorer 96
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Junior User
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From: Santiago Chile
explorer 96
Became new owner of an explorer 96 and seems highly unstable above speeds of 70 mile/h in the highway when slightly turning the steering wheel. Something very weird I haven´t see before on other vehicles. The vehicle have been checked all over . Has any of you noticed same thing. Could it be a flaw in the suspencion design?????
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From: Santiago Chile
Hi c96drumm thanks for the reply. The way my 96 explorer behaves is no way near my 97 ranger does. The ranger is very smooth and stable. My shocks on the explorer seem too hard and maybe they are gone. You feel every little crack in the pavement and they are inflated to recommended preasure (around 28 psi) I have tried with lesser preasure and more preasure too . Reckon maybe I´ll change the four schocks. Then I´ll let you know how it goes. Cheers Richard
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Our 96 is fine at those speeds. Get an alignment from a good shop, as that can sometimes do wonders for the feel of a vehicle. If shocks are original, I'd replace them. We went with Monroe Reflex and they're much better for handling. After all that, what tires do you have on it? They can affect the feel of a car considerably.
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From: Santiago Chile
Our explorer has 85 k/miles and only two front tires were replaced the spare is new and left two good looking originals in the rear all of them recently fully balanced. In asfalt rd it feels absolutely great but very sentive to steering knocs and cement imperfections. Maybe a good alingment in a good shop will do good too all though alingment was checked sometime ago. Thanks for your reply Minaw.. Richard
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ok i have a 95 xlt 4 door with best shoks i can find
tires 265\60\15 255\60or 70\15 are good too ore 16 depends on rim size and im telling u it handles like a pro even if i take a turn at a high speed my car doesnt lean on one side smashing u on the window is more stable and harder to flip
get shoks and stabilizers for now!!
next tires 255 i recomand.......i have 265 works good for me but 255 i seen on some explorers is more recomanded some shops dont install more then 235 go to a goodyear shop are cheap estimate 300 with instalation too and some small detail
tires 265\60\15 255\60or 70\15 are good too ore 16 depends on rim size and im telling u it handles like a pro even if i take a turn at a high speed my car doesnt lean on one side smashing u on the window is more stable and harder to flip
get shoks and stabilizers for now!!
next tires 255 i recomand.......i have 265 works good for me but 255 i seen on some explorers is more recomanded some shops dont install more then 235 go to a goodyear shop are cheap estimate 300 with instalation too and some small detail
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From: Santiago Chile
O.K. Lads I fixed my problem with my Explorer 96 shocks. I sort of went into an argument at the shocks store, I even took the skocks off myself to find that the are indeed double action and, ¡Gas filled! Oil filled is a thing of the past buddy they told me. Finally I gave into a set of Monroe sensatrack and every noise in the truck dissapeared and and am enjoying a very smooth ridenow. Strange but the shocks I took off seemed O.K. But the guy at the counter told me they were busted without even looking at them..?????? Maybe they were gien in a little.¡ cheers !Karslake
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Colorado, U.S.A!
Thanks for the update and glad it's fixed!
BTW, shocks do still have oil in them. The gas charged ones are pressurized with gas, (nitrogen, I think) instead of just unpressurized air. The oil being forced through valves and orifices is still what provides the damping action, just as it always has.
BTW, shocks do still have oil in them. The gas charged ones are pressurized with gas, (nitrogen, I think) instead of just unpressurized air. The oil being forced through valves and orifices is still what provides the damping action, just as it always has.
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Other than the feel of driving, how can you tell if it's time to replace shocks?
I have a 96 Explorer XLT w/ 115k miles, and thought I had some front suspension issues (possibly lower ball joints) but reputable local shop said all checked out okay. The noises/knocks started when it got warmer earlier this summer, and have gone away now that it's colder.
If it is the shocks, what's a rough estimate to have them replaced?
I have a 96 Explorer XLT w/ 115k miles, and thought I had some front suspension issues (possibly lower ball joints) but reputable local shop said all checked out okay. The noises/knocks started when it got warmer earlier this summer, and have gone away now that it's colder.
If it is the shocks, what's a rough estimate to have them replaced?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Colorado, U.S.A!
I got my 96 at about 80K miles and the factory shocks were shot. No noises or leaks, but it had a scary feel to it when cornering, particularly on highway curves. I put Monroe Reflexes on it and it drives like a new truck.
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From: Santiago Chile
Kingswell:
That´s right I should assume that above 80 K miles no shock will be good or get better and that is a rule. My former new car drove 70 K mile and the shocks went at that mileage. Mind that it is quite possible that the owner will not be well aware of it due to being acustomed in paved road . But once in dirt road he will sure note the difference than when new.
Best is to go to a shock shop or you trusted workshop or service shop and buy the best you can for your toy, and that is a rule too. Won´t repent. Cheers Karslake
That´s right I should assume that above 80 K miles no shock will be good or get better and that is a rule. My former new car drove 70 K mile and the shocks went at that mileage. Mind that it is quite possible that the owner will not be well aware of it due to being acustomed in paved road . But once in dirt road he will sure note the difference than when new.
Best is to go to a shock shop or you trusted workshop or service shop and buy the best you can for your toy, and that is a rule too. Won´t repent. Cheers Karslake
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Thanks for the information. Sounds like I'm overdue.
From what I've seen in other messages, it seems like this is a fairly straightforward do-it-yourself job, too. So, question is, just how straightforward?
I've seen some posts that say tire removal is necessary, others saying it's not. Would someone with little auto experience (and few tools) be able to tackle this? Or would it make more sense to let a shop take care of it?
Thanks.
From what I've seen in other messages, it seems like this is a fairly straightforward do-it-yourself job, too. So, question is, just how straightforward?
I've seen some posts that say tire removal is necessary, others saying it's not. Would someone with little auto experience (and few tools) be able to tackle this? Or would it make more sense to let a shop take care of it?Thanks.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Colorado, U.S.A!
The front ones are real easy. The rears are kind of tough at the top mounts due to clearance issues. Probably need to drop the spare tire. You need vise grips and open ended wrenches, if I remember right. And some penetrating oil. And patience. A good arsenal of cuss words can't hurt, either. 
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From: Santiago Chile
Explorer 966 schocks removal:
backwards: Must drop the spare tire and there is also a funny box with some riculous stwisted pcv pipes that must also be removed. 13 m/m spanner. Rest is a piece of cake.
Front ones: Only by the side. No open bonnet in your explorer. Must take the wheels out .Must use a strong socket for inferior bolts which I found real tight, and the upper nut can by taken easily provided you use a second spanner to hold the shaft I believe a 17 m/m just underneath the rubber wascher to prevent the shaft from spinning. As cd96drumm recomends rust loossener is welcomed wd40 and let wait for a few minutes. Also a piece of cake. Final recomendation. May want to take them to the supplier in order to get the same format, or at least studdy the type of ends as back and fron are not the same. as otherwise may get a sad surprise if these are not the same as original spares. Salesman say they don´t make mistakes but it has happened me a few times mayby due to my own mistake. Only an idea. Cheers
karslake
backwards: Must drop the spare tire and there is also a funny box with some riculous stwisted pcv pipes that must also be removed. 13 m/m spanner. Rest is a piece of cake.
Front ones: Only by the side. No open bonnet in your explorer. Must take the wheels out .Must use a strong socket for inferior bolts which I found real tight, and the upper nut can by taken easily provided you use a second spanner to hold the shaft I believe a 17 m/m just underneath the rubber wascher to prevent the shaft from spinning. As cd96drumm recomends rust loossener is welcomed wd40 and let wait for a few minutes. Also a piece of cake. Final recomendation. May want to take them to the supplier in order to get the same format, or at least studdy the type of ends as back and fron are not the same. as otherwise may get a sad surprise if these are not the same as original spares. Salesman say they don´t make mistakes but it has happened me a few times mayby due to my own mistake. Only an idea. Cheers
karslake