Brake line leaks
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Junior User
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Brake line leaks
Backed my 96 f-150 out of the garage yesterday, only to notice that the brake pedal was way soft, and brake and abs lights are on. Pumped a few times, and I can see the approx area where the leak is coming from. It’s raining down onto the emergency brake cable right where they split off - in front of Left rear wheel. I guess the line is tucked up in the frame? Haven’t had a chance yet to really take a look yet. I was up there last week, tucking the cable for my backup camera into the wire loom, perhaps I did some damage?
what are best options for replacing that line? Any thing to watch out for, or tricks to know? For my previous projects - scout and cj, I bought the pre bent kits from inline tube. Sort of pricey, but I suppose convenient. And I must be spatially challenged, because if I have to bend a line, I always seem to botch it. Anyone use the f150 kits, and if so, worth the price? Or easier to just buy a roll, and bend it to shape?
looking at some utubes, I need to remove the spring from the abs pump to bleed? Where is that thing even located? Thanks.
what are best options for replacing that line? Any thing to watch out for, or tricks to know? For my previous projects - scout and cj, I bought the pre bent kits from inline tube. Sort of pricey, but I suppose convenient. And I must be spatially challenged, because if I have to bend a line, I always seem to botch it. Anyone use the f150 kits, and if so, worth the price? Or easier to just buy a roll, and bend it to shape?
looking at some utubes, I need to remove the spring from the abs pump to bleed? Where is that thing even located? Thanks.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2012
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Just find your line and where it terminates. Replace with nicopp and never do it again. Keep going until you have good lines everywhere. You won't need inline tube as easy as that stuff bends ( by hand if your careful )
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2015
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I used one of their kits on my ‘89 F-150. When I bought my truck the line from the ABS hydraulic unit to the rear hose rusted through behind the front gas tank. I wanted to replace all the lines and be done with it. Sure I could have bent and flared my own but it was faster to use the preformed kit and the SS will outlast the truck. If you are only going to replace the one line then nickel copper is probably the way to go.
I had the right front line blow out on my Bronco (4wheel abs) while driving. A shop made a NiCu line to get me back on the road. It was like that for a few years but I eventually replaced them all with a stainless steel kit.
I had the right front line blow out on my Bronco (4wheel abs) while driving. A shop made a NiCu line to get me back on the road. It was like that for a few years but I eventually replaced them all with a stainless steel kit.
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Where is the abs unit located? Haven’t really had a chance to look over my lines yet, hopefully later today. Do I need to pull the spring out of the abs unit to bleed the brakes? Or do anything with the proportioning valve? I am assuming I have a valvle somewhere, as I have drums in the rear?
I ordered a cd with a shop manual, hopefully it will clear some of this up for me.
I ordered a cd with a shop manual, hopefully it will clear some of this up for me.
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2015
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Where is the abs unit located? Haven’t really had a chance to look over my lines yet, hopefully later today. Do I need to pull the spring out of the abs unit to bleed the brakes? Or do anything with the proportioning valve? I am assuming I have a valvle somewhere, as I have drums in the rear?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Mexico, Missouri
It is on the driver’s frame rail below the firewall. It is a “sealed” unit. There is no spring. I’m not sure what video you saw but it is completely wrong. One line in from the master cylinder and one line out to the rear brakes and a bleed screw. You bleed the system RR, LR, ABS, RF and then LF. There is no proportioning valve. The residual pressure valve is on the master cylinder
In the RABS unit itself, there is a spring. Remove the 1 1/8 or 1 1/4 nut and the spring will come out. But in doing so will render the RABS disabled.
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Thanks, tried to get started on it today, but could not get to it. Maybe tomorrow night.
the video I watched claimed you could not bleed the rear brakes if you didn’t pull the spring. that isn’t true, right ? I also saw other things on YouTube that I knew were bs, so hard to know who to believe.
the video I watched claimed you could not bleed the rear brakes if you didn’t pull the spring. that isn’t true, right ? I also saw other things on YouTube that I knew were bs, so hard to know who to believe.
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Darn YouTube, some other joker had a video where he bled the brakes entirely at the master cylinder, never went anywhere near the wheel bleeders. Not sure how that would work, and it took him about five times longer than it took me to hit all four wheels.
Thanks everyone for the replies. Replaced about seven feet of line today, bled it, and brakes are perfect, hard pedal, no lights on. I surely broke the rusted line when I was running the wire for the reverse camera.
Now I just need to figure out where the hose, that is maybe a vent line for the differential, goes. It was laying on the garage floor when I finished up.
Thanks everyone for the replies. Replaced about seven feet of line today, bled it, and brakes are perfect, hard pedal, no lights on. I surely broke the rusted line when I was running the wire for the reverse camera.
Now I just need to figure out where the hose, that is maybe a vent line for the differential, goes. It was laying on the garage floor when I finished up.
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robin22m
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Nov 27, 2006 08:47 PM