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Well OK, but a 3 way cat will need OBDII and a couple different oxygen sensors to work right.
not really. gm ran them in the mid 90s and only had the one 02 and didnt have the injection pump and still ran one free flow cat. in fact the 2 cats after an 02 sensor on a modern truck only monitor to see if the cats work. you can totally run with out them or the back 02s even. will send a cel but affects running in no way.
In my haste I described the wrong air intake. My intake was stock just as you have in the diagram but I had changed it over a year ago.
I have had several Ford trucks over the years and I was visualizing the wrong intake. I used the same location for my air inlet.
I just made a bigger fresh air inlet plus a bigger box around the air filter box. Does it help? I don't know but more air flow is always a good thing.
Here is my delete story.
I opened up the fresh air intake by getting rid of that sad little opening near the radiator cap.Think about it, a 460 trying to suck air through a hole that small. I opened up the air filter box under the filter to get more air and better air distribution through the filter. The horns in the intake tubes were already gone.
I removed everything and I mean everything except the EGR and MAP. I unplugged all of the related electric solenoids like the TAD plus whatever other thing was smog related..
I used short lengths of ? id heater hose and 1/2 inch pipe plugs on the threaded ends of the pipe going around the heads and the pipe from the cat to plug them up. The cat is going to be gutted and put back in place because I don't want to cobble together some straight pipe crap.
I will maybe positively probably maybe without a doubt get rid of the muffler and run a straight pipe because I think it may be a little plugged up.
I gutted the old crusty vacuum lines and then replaced all necessary lines with new hose and plugs where they are needed. I bought a shorter belt since the air pump is gone.I have not had an error code or check engine light.
I have 17 inches of manifold vacuum. I have the factory manuals, a breakout box and various electrical test equipment since I have a decent electronics lab.
I installed a new harmonic balancer ( major pita ) new plugs, set the timing at 10 deg btds and it runs better now than when I bought it. I think part of the rough running I used to have was due to vacuum leaks in the old lines or solenoids. And it is a torque monster now.
Did I do it the right way?? I don't know but it worked for me even though I have dain bramage.
You should write a DYI for us dummies! I build a AC 427 Cobra with a stock 5.0. Took everything off the motor, everything. Took the car to a guy in Enterprise AL., he dyne'ed the car, readjusted the ECU with a chip and the car is fast. Smells like a gas station when idling but I don't care wanted max HP and Torq.
You should write a DYI for us dummies! I build a AC 427 Cobra with a stock 5.0. Took everything off the motor, everything. Smells like a gas station when idling...
FYI: There are a lot of threads about how to delete the air injection and/or EGR systems. You can remove the vacuum hoses, leaving the TAB & TAD solenoids plugged in. That way it will not set TDCs since the computer still thinks it is a functioning system. You cannot remove “everything” from a fuel injected system. There are sensors that have to be there. Is it a speed density system or mass air? The fact that the car is so rich at idle tells me that there is something wrong with how it is set up.