1996 F250, automatic transmission, 7.3. Around town driving the other day I noticed the alt/volt gauge was reading low. Soon after that the engine stumbled/cut out, WTS light came on and engine restarted itself immediately. Volt gauge went to normal then and I made it home fine. A few days later upon attempting to start, all I get is a click, no turn over.
Charged batteries to 100% and still only a click. Batteries are Motorcraft 2 years old.

Where to start with this?

 

Key it on, make sure in park/neutral, jump starter solenoid. It could have taken a dump or the ignition switch is dying.

 

Still just a click from the starter. What would the low voltage/stumble incident have to do with it?

 

Click means that some current is getting to the fender solenoid, but just because it's clicking doesn't mean that any current is getting to the starter solenoid or sufficient current to the starter. A failed fender solenoid can click, and still not route any current. That it clicks suggests that park/neutral safety and ignition switch are OK. Basically, ignition sends signal to fender solenoid (unless park/neutral or clutch safeties intervene), fender solenoid sends intermediate current to solenoid on the starter, which switches the high current to the starter. If you jumper the two larger terminals on the fender solenoid and it cranks, you've found your culprit. You could have other issues... failed starter, loose or corroded connections to starter, but most of those would result in weak cranking rather than no cranking.

The low voltage and stumble could be unrelated to the starting problem. These engines don't take much current to operate. They'll run quite a while just fine with a bad alternator, slowly sucking down the batteries to the point where headlights dim and eventually the starter won't turn. Yes, I did run that experiment. Out-of-town trip, volt gage drops on the interstate, 200 miles and several starts later, headlights dimming, starts getting weaker. Very weak start to drive from hotel to one of the A-places just before they closed, but engine ran fine, changed out alternator under the parking lot lights, and finally didn't have enough left in the batteries to crank. Got a jump from a Cummins, drove a while to get some charge in the batteries, and no problems afterwards. The point is that on a failed alternator I had plenty of signs I was losing battery charge, not a sudden no-start.

Other folks will be more help on the charging issues.

 

Jumped solenoid, only starter clicks, no turn over. Checked for codes, no trouble codes. I guess I can clean all connections and report back.

Thanks.

 

Hey now. My dorky Civic had a fully charged battery, yet failed a load test! You may want to load test them.

 

When you jumped the fender solenoid, the starter solenoid clicked, but no action at all from the starter? Not even a slow spin or chattering solenoid?

That suggests that your problem is one of:
1) the starter (dead starter or starter solenoid clicking but not switching the main current to the starter),
2) the high-current connection to the starter is bad (maybe a flat-out break rather than corroded connections, which should get at least some action from the starter), or
3) batteries show fully charged, but are too weak under load to spin the starter or even make the solenoid chatter (you should be seeing other symptoms like very weak lights)

 

Update: So I cleaned all battery connections and the one ground at the block I could get to. When I turned the key to start I got smoke from under the hood. Looked like from the starter area. After the smoke cleared, the starter and fender solenoid were hot to the touch. I disconnected the batteries and let things cool down.
I assume this means the starter was the problem?? If so what do you recommend?

 

Ouch! That sounds like a dead short in the starter or maybe starter solenoid. Good news is no fire. Almost certainly new starter and new fender solenoid. I don't know if the positive feed to the fender solenoid is fused or has a fusible link, or a fusible link on the starter positive feed; if so, those could be blown. Someone else will have to weigh in there. At a minimum, probably should check those wires for heat damage.

 

Starter to battery is just straight cable, EVTM shows no fusible link from battery to noid. I find that a bit odd, but that is how it is designed! I am with paddler, inspect cables. Replace starter. Do that later Super Duty unit or the Denso. With the solenoid, I would do Motorcraft only.

https://www.custombatterycables.com/...350-1987-1999/ if you need cables. I think stock Motorcraft are good too, just unsure of their current retail pricing.

 

Hit Man, I know you run a Denso, have there been any negative reviews on the TYC unit? I read some earlier posts about it.

Glenn.

 

I am unsure. I have a real Denso from Thoroughbred Diesel. Smarter move probably would have to purchased a late Super Duty unit with lifetime warranty.

 

If I buy a 2002 SD starter for my 96, would a 96 fender solenoid still work with it?

 

Yep, I THINK there are two types for the SD. You want the offset style like the Denso. $190 plus tax if you buy on Autozone website, plus receive the warranty. Cannot beat that. That is a new unit also.

 

The Duralast Gold is showing 243.99 plus core on Auto zone. Still not a bad price I guess. Would I need longer mounting bolts for this unit?