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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Y block oil pump

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Old Apr 1, 2020 | 03:14 PM
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Y block oil pump

Hello, today I attempted to replace the oil pump on the 292 in my 64 f100. Everything went pretty smooth and it wasn’t as difficult as I had anticipated (I should have known). I finished up and fired the truck up and sure enough there was about 3-4 quarts of oil spilling on the driveway. I think I verified that the new pump functions based on the amount of oil that hit the ground in such a short amount of time.

I’m not entirely sure what I did wrong, any tips or opinions would be greatly appreciated. Also I hope everyone has been staying healthy!
 
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Old Apr 1, 2020 | 03:29 PM
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Pump to block bolts loose or forgot to install the gasket, bypass valve plug loose, warped replacement pump. Not too much it can be, if that is all you did. You should be able to see where it is coming from.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2020 | 09:49 PM
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There is a rubber ring that goes over the pickup tube that inserts into the pump if you did not put that ring on and then tighten the nut then it will leak like a sive. Also did you rember the gasket between the pump and the block?
 
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Old Apr 1, 2020 | 09:57 PM
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Part 6698 is the ring I am talking about
 
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Old Apr 2, 2020 | 08:40 AM
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1954/64 Ford Passenger Car 239/256/272/292/312 /// 1954/64 Truck 239/256/272/279/292/302/317/332:

B6Q-6619-A .. Gasket (O-ring) - Oil Pump Cover Plate / Obsolete

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 62 = 800-543-4959.
----------
B4A-6626-B .. Gasket - Oil Pump Inlet Tube Fitting / Obsolete

GREEN SALES CO. has 48.
----------
B4A-6698-A .. Seal - Oil Pan to Oil Pump Inlet Tube / Obsolete

GREEN SALES CO. has 101.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2020 | 12:37 PM
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It's been a few days since I fixed the truck, but I realized I forgot to post an update on what had happened. After reviewing the replies on here I went out and made sure the bolts were tight. I proceeded to break a bolt in half, out of frustration I went inside and took a break. I went back out and starting removing the oil pump and I realized my mistake when I took it off. When I previously attempted to install, the gasket fell off and I just threw it back up and checked for bolt hole alignment and installed it.

For anyone looking to install a Y block oil pump MAKE SURE YOUR GASKET IS ON PROPERLY. I had installed everything correctly, but the gasket was backwards and did not seal properly. I ended up getting the gasket situated right and everything seems to be running smoothly. Is 80 pounds of oil pressure normal? Seems a bit high to me. I used 10w40 oil because it's getting warmer here in TN. I normally run 10w30 in the winter time. The picture shows how it was installed incorrectly, the pump was above my head and I assumed it would seal due to the bolt holes lining up. Next time I paid much more attention when installing.

 
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Old Apr 10, 2020 | 01:03 PM
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80psi is not unusual, cold. If that is at operating temp, then it is pretty high.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2020 | 01:27 PM
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The shop manual specs are 35-55 psi HOT at 2000 RPM.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2020 | 07:59 AM
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One thing I noticed just as a FYI, after replacing the oil pump on my Y it took maybe 3 or 4 engine warmup & cool down cycles for the pump bolts to stabilize. Torque spec is 12-15 ft/lbs. "Gutentight" will work too, either will help make sure there aren't any subtle air leaks.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2020 | 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Tedster9
The shop manual specs are 35-55 psi HOT at 2000 RPM.
Thanks for the tip about retightening the bolts! I spent around three hours driving around yesterday, there’s not much to do right now during quarantine. At idle I would drop to 40 psi but running down the road I was usually around 65-70 psi. I’m considering that my gauge is most likely incorrect, but that’s what the old pump used to run at too. Oh well, I’m sure it’s probably fine.

Thanks again everyone for all of the quick replies!
 
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Old Apr 11, 2020 | 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by CJ McGee
Thanks for the tip about retightening the bolts! I spent around three hours driving around yesterday, there’s not much to do right now during quarantine. At idle I would drop to 40 psi but running down the road I was usually around 65-70 psi. I’m considering that my gauge is most likely incorrect, but that’s what the old pump used to run at too. Oh well, I’m sure it’s probably fine.

Thanks again everyone for all of the quick replies!
I have a mechanical gauge on my 292. At 600 rpm idle it is at 55 psi. Going down the road at 60 mph at about 300 rpm it is 65 to 70 psi. Your numbers look good to me.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2020 | 01:29 PM
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Is this a fresh engine rebuild? Just curious is all. Those numbers would be pretty stout for a high mileage engine or something that hasn't been gone through recently.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2020 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Tedster9
Is this a fresh engine rebuild? Just curious is all. Those numbers would be pretty stout for a high mileage engine or something that hasn't been gone through recently.
Six years ago when I bought the truck I was told it had 13,000 original miles. I didn’t believe him, but you never know. I’ve put about 40,000 miles on the truck over the last six years. It may have had a rebuild before I got it, but it was not running at the time of purchase. The seller told me he had bought the truck to restore but never actually touched anything on it. He had just bought the truck and parked it in the driveway and it sat there until I took it home. He mentioned that the original owner had purchased the truck and soon after left for Vietnam and never returned, but there was no way to verify the story.

The only things I’ve done to the motor was a new distributor and new water pump and recently the oil pump. I also put headers on it, checked valve lash, 4 barrel intake and carb swap, plugs and wires, and regular oil changes. Also new valve covers and air cleaner because all of it was missing at time of purchase along with parts of the clutch linkage. Otherwise it just maintains daily driver duty for the last 5 years because I don’t have another car.

I also believe the truck was in a flood at one point. The motor was full to the top with water, so was the transmission and rear end. The tranny and rear end have both been rebuilt, but the motor seems to be running fine. I never bothered to pull the dipstick at purchase because it wasn’t running anyways and was missing the radiator. I assumed the oil would have been drained too.
 
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