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Attached are 3 pics of the ammeter and how I have it connected. I am wanting to make sure that I have it hooked up correctly because when I run the engine I get nothing out of the meter. Photo 1 is the single connection to the alternator, #2 is showing the connection to the voltage regulator, then I go to the meter itself and then out of it to pic #3 showing connection to the starter silonoid, (not spelled right,LOL).
Any assistance would be appreciated. Single connection alternator
What happens if you turn on the headlights or other significant electrical load? Does the ammeter stay near -0-?
Are those 10 ga wires? They look small. Your hookup looks OK but did you run from the ammeter loop to the circuit breakers? I assume so since the engine is getting ignition.
Have you tried rev'ing the engine to say 1500 RPM? Did the alternator kick on if you did?
Don,t have the headlights hooked up yet as fenders are still on the ground, Do not have a tach but have revved the motor without result and am using 12 ga wire.
I also installed a true one wire alternator during my re-wiring with an EZ wire kit. You should not need a voltage regulator in your set-up, as the alternator is internally regulated. One thing I did notice is that you have not grounded your alternator. That's the purpose of the other large bolt on the back of the alternator. That could be your problem.
I like ammeters but recently removed an aftermarket one installed by the previous owner. It was wired up with only 12 gauge not even automotive wiring. Just me, but I decided I did not want 60+ amperes of possible fault current passing through the cab with me in it. So I replaced it with a voltmeter. I feel it tells me more about what's going on with the charging system and it's much simpler to connect and its only hot when the ignition switch is on. Again that's just me.
Good point about the alternator ground. For that matter, how is the engine grounded?
I assume this is just temporary wiring that is to get the truck running. #12 is "OK" for a 60-amp alternator, but #10 would be better. OP hasn't said what the alternator is rated for tho, some 10Si's are rated near 100 amps. Some kind of fault protection for the main wires would be appropriate (fusible link). The stock 48-52 ammeters are not a risk at all, there is no current flowing thru them and the induction loop is insulated.
This battery connection looks sketchy, appears to have been crimped in a vise and and half the strands are broken?
