Gear ratio
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Gear ratio
2001 F250 5.4 4x4 I’m about to put an 8 inch lift and run 37s, 38s when I go mudding (37s as my “daily” driver and the 38s for having fun) I plan on building a crate long block 5.4 in a few years, but my question is, what would be the optimal gear ratio for 37s/38s on a 8 inch lift? I don’t currently tow anything but, the most I plan on towing with my 5.4 is a smaller boat and possibly a pop-up camper. So, I guess I’m looking for a gear ratio that’s perfect for the 37s and 38s and for daily driving on top of fun on the weekends
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 7,460
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From: Kent Station, WA
With 35's quite a bit of 99-04 Gas guys go with a 4.30 effective ratio. Usually a 4.56 or 4.88. What is you factory ratio? 3.73 or 4.10? I'd say a 4.88 or 5.13.
Check out 4lo.com for calculators.
Why rebuild the longblock? Do you have headers, engine tuned up?
Check out 4lo.com for calculators.
Why rebuild the longblock? Do you have headers, engine tuned up?
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Bently_Coop
id have to get back to you on the factory ratio, I’m unsure what it has to be honest but, I’ll probably go with the 5.13 and be done with it. As for the long block build, my current 5.4 has the original exhaust manifolds on it (with the famous broken studs) I don’t exactly have the space, tools, or right know how to extract the studs and put headers on myself, so the cost to have a shop do it (I unfortunately don’t have anyone that can help either) plus the tune-up and other parts it needs replaced (needs an intake manifold as well and possibly heads) it would be cheaper in the long run for me to build a crate long block (roughly $3500ish when all is said and done) and that’s a fresh motor with all of the ford quirks worked out of it, with zero miles. I’ll save the original 5.4 but, I just feel like building a crate engine would be best in the long run (I could be wrong haha)
id have to get back to you on the factory ratio, I’m unsure what it has to be honest but, I’ll probably go with the 5.13 and be done with it. As for the long block build, my current 5.4 has the original exhaust manifolds on it (with the famous broken studs) I don’t exactly have the space, tools, or right know how to extract the studs and put headers on myself, so the cost to have a shop do it (I unfortunately don’t have anyone that can help either) plus the tune-up and other parts it needs replaced (needs an intake manifold as well and possibly heads) it would be cheaper in the long run for me to build a crate long block (roughly $3500ish when all is said and done) and that’s a fresh motor with all of the ford quirks worked out of it, with zero miles. I’ll save the original 5.4 but, I just feel like building a crate engine would be best in the long run (I could be wrong haha)
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 11,278
Likes: 1,658
From: Las Cruces New Mexico
5.13 and its the lowest you can go in gears in the Sterling iirc. If its auto make sure you add to the list a 6.0 transcooler and do some trans upgrades as well like VB, and a good torque converter.
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