I knew you didn't mean that I figured I just let it be .....

 

It’s been crazy lately!

 

Not as much oil as passenger side.

 

Not sure how anyone can determine if the oil is from the tear down or pushed through the gaskets. Had 3 sets of filler gauges and none of them had a gauge less than 0.004". Used a straight edge and was not able to get the 0.004" gauge between the head/block surfaces and straight edge at any point of measurement. Got it all cleaned up and reassembled. Lowered the cab and tied everything back in. Cranked it Monday just to find the passenger side head gasket did not seal!

 

I had a few studs on this side that would pop during the torque sequence. Usually at the start of the torque sequence. Some would pop once then smooth pull to the torque value. One particularly would pop 2 - 3 times before smoothing out. I believe this is my issue as I recall this during the first attempt which I think would give inaccurate torque values. Has anyone had this issue while torqueing? How do you prevent it? I was generous with the ARP lube.

 

Old gasket (Top) 0.053"
New gasket 0.060"

 

Checking flatness with 0.004” is a waste of time, it didn’t tell you anything. You need an accurate straight edge and you need thin feeler gauges. McMaster has individual and kits that go down to 0.0005”, which is what I use. The individual ones run about $8 each, a full kit of individual gauges runs about $50. Century Tools 6429 is rumored to be the same as Snap On’s Ford recommended, 0.0002” per foot. You can find them for $80 to $100. I would look for places I can return, then buy 3 so you can check against all and keep the one you want. McMaster sells straight edges too, but they are expensive.

Interesting you got two different thickness.

I can’t speak for the studs, but creaking is a sign of poor thread lubrication, or something not going together well.

 

Mine never creaked or popped until I was removing the nuts. That engine is a mess, all kinds of stuff getting in the cylinder bores.

 

Are those machining marks on the deck in the first pic?

Did you thoroughly clean the threaded holes in the block for the studs?

 

Not expecting everyone to take investigative pictures .....

But if I play with the attributes I think you can see more detail.

 

Did some research on the studs popping. Found that this is not uncommon and most that have experienced this issue tried loosing off the nut and re-torqued or removed the nuts and washers, cleaned and applied more lube just to have the same issue. To solve the issue they removed the ARP lube and used Lucas oil additive. Some even said their studs were scattering but caused not issues. So...…. I called ARP and talked with their tech Sam and explained the issue I'm experiencing. He agreed that the popping or as he called it "scattering" is causing inaccurate torque values. He explained that the studs were twisting then releasing causing the popping. He suggested that I clean the lube from all mating surfaces and install the washers dry and only apply a glob of lube to the top of threads. Also to run the studs to the bottom hand tight then back them out 1/8" off the bottom. Then to use a boxed-end wrench and a hex key to preload the studs while preventing them from turning. Then torque them in 3 steps of 40 - 150 - 210 ft-lb waiting 5-10 mins between torque cycles. He also said if any of them scatter during the torque sequence to loosen it and re-torque it. I had a few to scatter and following Sam's instructions to the "T" I loosened and re-torqued without any scattering. One exception was that 2 kept scattering so I removed the nut and washer, cleaned the surfaces again and repeated the process. Took a break and enjoyed a cold refreshment (actually a couple) for about an hour then checked the torque values and actually found a couple to be about 10 ft-lb off. I repeated the check cycle until all stud torque values were 210 ft-lb without any moving to achieve torque value. I've put 150 miles on the truck without any sign of oil leakage or degas puking!!!!!

Thanks to all for the suggestions, information, education and most of all your help with trying to figuring this out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Any suggestions on how to prevent anything from getting into the cylinders while pulling the heads? I've watch several videos of techs pulling the heads where water and oil were present in the cylinders. I put rags in them before blowing the stud holes out to prevent anything else from entering them and thoroughly cleaned them before reassembly.
There were several raised rusted areas on the block that I was not able to clean. So it went back to the machinist for surfacing.

 

Any time I pull heads I have the engine on a stand. Twice now and it is so nice having full access to everything instead of laying on top of an engine working with flashlights, telescopic magnets and all kinds of socket configurations to access fasteners. Hopefully the last time was the last time on my engine. I like to have all fluids drained completely, the engine blown off with compressed air and everything clean before I start pulling parts off. Just a little grit can severely impede longevity of an engine. I’m just more OCD than most techs, sometimes it causes me to take longer than most to do a job but usually end up with fewer issues. I used to run a hurricane shutter fabrication and installation crew and the owner always complained about how long I took to get a job done and how many extra fasteners I used...but 15 years later he ran into me in a store and we got to talking and not one of my jobs had to be revisited when his newer jobs were costing him lots of profit on call backs. Do it right, do it light. Do it wrong, do it long!
I’m glad you got it figured out and she’s running nicely.

 

When you pull heads off an active motor coolant and oil go everywhere. It's all about the cleanup afterward. You do as much as you can beforehand.

Before I put my studs in, I'll be talking to ARP.

The term scattering typically means inconsistent tension between all the fasteners. I've never heard it used for the release of a fastener twist. Unless they meant the release of the twist was causing scattering.

The release of the twisting does reduce tension, it's backing off the threads and it's well known. Ideally, you want to minimize twisting of the fastener, which is what I thought this ARP lube was supposed to do, better than any other. I think in Mac's thread I asked or stated the studs should be marked as well as the nuts so you can see if there is any twisting of either afterward. That's actually common practice on critically tensioned components. In my first professional job, I used to work with guys that built the hatches on the Space Shuttles - that's critical fastening.

One thing I was planning on talking to ARP about which relates to this is to not lube the threads in the block for higher frictional loading within the threads, and the possibility of using low or medium grade Locktite in the block threads to "plant" the studs. You don't know if the release of the twist is occurring at the block or at the nut.

Some engineers state 40% of the torque is used by the thread friction, and 50% used in the nut to washer friction. This is why I've always been amazed that ARP uses a torque value, not even putting into the equation of torque wrench inaccuracy. This is why angular tensioning was put into practice; you know the thread pitch, so with an angular rotation it's easy to determine the degree of stretch (clamping force) you have achieved by rotating 360º or whatever. It's doesn't matter the frictional forces or the accuracy of the torque wrench.

Can you provide links to where this discussion has come up before in your research?

 

Jack, both times I torqued my same studs I didn’t have any popping and I used the ARP lube. I coated the washers both sides then a little lube on the threads then hand tightened the nuts then ten step torque to 225.