This generator came off the 262 inline six engine in my 1963 ford f100. I have a few questions about it. As far as I know this truck would have come equipped with either a Autolite generator or a Ford generator, so I was curious if anybody could tell me which kind of generator this is. I would also like some insight as to if this generator is 30 amp. There is a picture above with a part that looks similar to a condenser, it was mounted to the block and the wire was connected to the generator. I was wondering what exactly this is and where I might be able to get a new one? Any of you your input and help is greatly appreciated.

 

Are there any STAMPING ID NOS. on the case? Usually, the AMP RATING will be stamped also.

The capacitor is used for radio suppression. See if any stamping is on either end -

 

That thing got smoked at one time. Notice the paint burned off the case and general roasted interior. Generators (and their external regulators) needed a little maintenance now and then to keep the electrons happy. The voltage cutout relay contacts in particular were prone to welding itself shut now and then due to dirty contacts, or maybe loss of polarity for some reason.

Anyhoo what happens then is the battery backfeeds voltage into the generator field windings iirc, in any case lets all the magic smoke out. A FYI for generator luddites out there - if the GEN light does not go out when engine is shut off, always disconnect the battery right away.

You'll have to decide for yourself if retaining the generator charging system is what you want to do in this situation. I wouldn't get too sentimental about that one in particular. The shop manual has a gazillion tests with an ohmeter and voltmeter you can perform and check all that stuff, were it me I'd find another generator. Once the insulation is burned off magnet wire it's done for, and generally the pole shoes are major PITA to remove, at about 900 yard/ton torque spec. That big *** square pipe fitting. Oil soaked or burned field coils are cause for skepticism. Now if it all cleans up and checks out OK that's one thing.

You can buy "new" ones but prepare to be shocked at the price. Mac's for example, has them.

 

Checking Mac's catalog seem kinda high, suggests check with local NAPA or reputable local auto parts store and take the original with you for comparison should there are any fitment issues and also no additional charge for the core. If one realy want to go the cheap route there's always RockAuto for $50.

 

It's best to pair a known good voltage regulator with a known good generator. I haven't heard too many good things about the commonly available voltage regulator replacements. Good new old stock from Autolite, or serviceable used are preferred. These pop up on that auction site now and then.

If you have the option and there's yet a motor repair shop near you it is a good plan to have them run the generator and regulator up on a test jig and can check for correct voltage and cutout as well as current. Don't let all these details scare you, they work very well for a long time but they are definitely not "plug and play".

 

Unless you have a huge sentimental attachment to the generator, I would do the conversion to an alternator.

 

regardless if you want Generator or to swap to alternator, I have a local shop that still does rebuilding in house, and he's never failed me. Check in your area for an auto electric shop.