2002 E350. I put new ball joints in, Moog CC880S springs, new shocks, and added in the 0-4 degree dual adjustment alignment bushings. The alignment shop apparently has no concept of how to adjust these. They are in the exact same inner/outer position as when I installed them, all they did was rotate the outer portion. Went back, and they told me "I don't know what else I can do for you" and gave me my money back. I never thought these were that confusing, but I guess they are when you're stupid.

If I understand this correctly, knowing my current settings, and where the bushings are set at. I can use the chart to set it to where I want it to be, yes?

 

Well, not stupid, just not trained in all phases. Today's shops cater mostly to FWD cars. You need to specifically ask before letting someone have it or find a truck specialty shop.

 

So is the alignment shop stupid or is it you? Why did you take it there in the first place before knowing in advance they were familiar with customer supplied or installed parts? I think they were foolish allowing someone unknown to them bring a self-repaired vehicle in for repair---they were wise refunding your money and allowing you to seek other shops. I've done the same with customers who I can tell will be long term pains in the ****.

There are caster/camber bushings available that will accommodate a +5 caster setting which is highly recommended for the E-Series these days. The dual adjustment bushings aren't really necessary, the stock-type bushings being much much more well known and easily adjusted or changed to suit almost adjustment the customer desires.

Since there are so many YouTube videos on these DIY alignment procedures and for the most part you're correct about the dual adjustment bushings. Start from your known settings and adjust accordingly. Have your work verified by an alignment shop but don't ask them to work with what you've installed. Continue your DIY progress until you have the desired results.

 

Not sure why you would feel the need to insult the poster that he’s the stupid one ?
He took it to an alignment shop that should have the knowledge to be able to adjust the camber/caster correctly to spec or the customers desired settings !
You would hope a business doing alignments would have an ASE certified tech in suspensions performing this type of work.
“The shop was foolish for taking in a vehicle because the customer installed or supplied the bushings”, his workmanship and pride in repairing his own vehicle may be better than the person that was unable to perform a basic alignment could do.
You’re right, they were foolish to bring this vehicle in for an alignment because they have an incompetent tech that doesn’t know all aspects of suspension repairs and adjustments!
But hey you must be one hell of a profitable businessman since you can turn away work due to your keen sense of knowing which customers coming in the door will be a long term pain in the *** because YOU wont be able to meet their expectation of performing the job correctly !

 

Because it is allowed ...

THANK YOU! for bringing this up. The OP did nothing wrong. What has to be realized is that there are different grades of shops and techs. This is true even in dealerships. Those less trained demand a lesser pay rate and the bulk of the work will go to them.

 

When I got my van aligned, I had to ask a few shops about the adjustable sleeves before I found one that knew what I was talking about. I purchased them myself and the shop installed them.

 

IMO, set the bushings to a caster addition of +2 Degrees and a camber addition of +0 Degrees, tweak the toe and you are good to go.
This should give you a caster of about +5.5 degrees and a camber setting about the same as before, which to me, is close enough.

That worked for me 10 years and 50K miles ago and normal tire wear since.
IMO, caster is not a tire wear setting. Toe is the tire wear culprit, camber establishes the toe wear profile. JMO.

 

Yes , once the alignment tech measures the caster by steering the front wheels to the left then right the alignment machine will display the caster angles.
Then he can adjust the bushings to the correct position to achieve the desired caster/camber amount.
He may need to replace those bushings with different ones if they wont bring the tires into spec.
Ride height will effect the measurements, have the vehicle in a daily driven load and tire pressures set to spec.
Always request a before and after print out of the alignment so you can see that it was done correctly. A reputable shop will always provide a print out with out asking, if they wont print it out find another shop.

 

[QUOTE=Harvard;19184723]IMO, set the bushings to a caster addition of +2 Degrees and a camber addition of +0 Degrees, tweak the toe and you are good to go.
This should give you a caster of about +5.5 degrees and a camber setting about the same as before, which to me, is close enough.

That worked for me 10 years and 50K miles ago and normal tire wear since.
IMO, caster is not a tire wear setting. Toe is the tire wear culprit, camber establishes the toe wear profile. JMO.[/

Cross camber out of spec will cause the vehicle to pull to one side also.
Caster makes the steering wheel return to straight ahead position after making a turn and keeps the vehicle tracking straight down the road so you don’t have to constantly correct the wheel on the highway.

 

I specifically asked before bringing it, if they could align such a vehicle. They assured me they could. And they made ZERO recommendations on bushings. They turned the bushing that were there, then said "that's as good as it's going to get." No mention of changing bushings or anything. And they had no clue what a dual adjustment bushing was, nor did they ask me what I was talking about. Just a stupid look, then "ok" and didn't adjust them.

 

Normally, I would say that yes, they just weren't trained on such a thing. But they completely refused to listen to me, when I said it has 0-4 degree adjustable bushings. They didn't even question what I was talking about, they just didn't listen to what I was saying at all. The below pic is how I left the shop.

Anyways, I made the adjustments today, and it drives much better. The bushings were set at O/CD and N/BC. Adjusted to A/A and I/Q, based on the Moog chart.

 

The chart I have is not an original and is difficult to read.

According to my interpretation of the chart:

The Drivers side set at A/A = +4.0 * Caster
The Passengers side set at I/Q = +2.25* Caster.

Caster settings are far too lopsided for my liking.

 

Help us out a bit:

Where is O/CD and N/BC on the chart?

 

It looks as if Drivers O/CD is very close to +0.25 * Caster
and
It looks like the Passenger side N/BC is very close to -0.25 * Caster