Hi Guys, looking for suggestions concerning the door lock switch on a 2000 Ranger XLT. Neither switch would work to lock/unlock the doors, so replaced driver side door. No joy, same thing. Could hear it trying to lock/unlock but locks stayed as they were. Have not replaced passenger side door but @ $62 per, kinda dicey to just try. Any thoughts?

 

There is a small plastic piece that attaches parts together. It connects the key cylinder to the linkage. If it breaks, (mine did), the linkages can hang around and bind things up. The other thing to do is make sure everything is clean and lubed where needed.

 

If you've replaced one of the lock solenoids without joy, it sounds like a voltage drop problem to the lock solenoid. So use your multimeter on the 20VDC setting to back probe / measure what the operating voltage the lock solenoids are seeing, both off & on.
Make sure the battery is at a full state of charge.
Had wimpy door locks & power windows on my 94 Taurus years ago. Removed the drivers side master switch console, opened the snap together switch assy halves using jewelers screwdrivers to hold the tangs open, so I could slide the two halves apart & access the switch contacts. Cleaned them All with CRC MAF Sensor cleaner, a plastic safe, non residual product & some 600 grit wet rated sand paper. Others have used the spray & a NEW dollar bill to buff the contacts & spray to clean debris off them. One guy on the Taurus forum didn't have a New Dollar bill, so he cut up a $100 dollar bill in strips & used the CRC product. Anyway, cleaning my driver side power locks momentary switch contacts Really woke those puppies up, now they operate with Gusto, like never before, so I think the Taurus contacts were contaminated from the factory. Yup the spray soaked $100 bill strips worked to buff his contacts clean & fix his problem too & he was careful not to damage the serial numbers, so the bank replaced the cut up one!!!
If no joy cleaning the switch contacts but voltage drop out of the switch is ok, wiggle, or open the electrical connectors along the way to the offending door, to check pins, sockets for damage or corrosion on them & wimpy wire crimps to the contacts for looseness or corrosion. Also check the lock system in cabin ground points, they need to be clean, bright & tight.

Use, borrow, or come by a ELM scan tool & running FORScan diagnostic freeware on the viewing device of your choice, as discussed here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-scantool.html as this combo can scan All of the vehicle computer / controllers, like the body controller & GEM for trouble code clues that might be able to focus the trouble shoot, then post All trouble code Numbers.

More thoughts for consideration let us know what you find.

 

Thanks guys for the info! Have ordered both L/R door lock actuators and will advise after installation to see if problem solved.

 

A number have found that opening the actuator & shorting out the faulty current limiting thermistor, will restore Robust action. There are numerous threads from years past on how to do it. The thermistor was put in so that kids playing around & holding the lock button, or window button down After the lock solenoid had actuated, or a window had reached its limit, wouldn't over heat the lock solenoid, or window motor. If the thermistor goes bad, lock action will weaken with additional button pushes. wiring a jumper across the thermister restores Full operating voltage to that puppy & it really wakes up. So don't toss the old ones, just rework them & put aside for spares for when the replacements act up. Or, cancel the order & rework the old ones now.
More thoughts for pondering.

 

Thanks again pawpaw, but being as I purchased the truck in 2004 and all kids had moved on, don't think that would be problem. And at 82 years old, no more kids in the picture to do same. Order is on the way and again, the truck is 20 years old, actuators probably need replacing anyway.

 

Ok, let us know if you get joy replacing the lock actuators.

 

Not a chance of me hogging all the glory of installing 'em, already have someone lined up to take ALL the credit!

 

OK, your not out of the woods yet, kinda seems to me maybe you never completed the back probe under load voltage drop tests At the lock actuators electrical connector, so right now you don't know if replacing them will likely bring joy. So, lets see what Murphy's Law has to say about the assumptions!!!! Will be interesting to hear how it goes.

 

Forgot to mention that voltage HAS BEEN checked and it does measure up to snuff. I didn't do it, but the fellow that is going to do the install did and that's when the decision was made to replace 'em.

 

Ok, if he performed a Under Load voltage drop test at the actuators electrical connector & no operating voltage drop was measured when the lock button was pushed, maybe Murphy wont pay a visit & you'll get some joy, so let us know how it goes

 

My daughter is driving my late fathers 2000 Ranger 4x2 Supercab 3.0 V6 auto XLT. Has power locks, windows and mirrors. 245,000 miles.
Same problem here..

Looks like a real pain to access the actuators. If replacing the actuators doesn't fix issue, where too next?

Thanks

 

UPDATE: Actuators removed and replaced. Everything working as it should, but the fellow that did the job had no nice names to the engineer that designed the door locks. He really had a time getting them to fit like they should and from what he described to me, was a very difficult install. Just glad I didn't have to do it myself! But cannot print what my guy had to say about whoever it was that thought he did a good job of inventing these door locks.

 

OK, good feedback & to hear all seems well with the replacement door lock actuators. Thanks for closing out your thread.