Alternator 3 wires
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 883
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From: New-brunswick,Canada
Alternator 3 wires
Alternator. I switch engine and now i cant remember Where the 3 wire goes back on the alternator. 1979 f250 ranger xlt 4x4 351m. Can someone can show me a picture of the back alternator ?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 9,597
Likes: 1,172
From: San Jose, CA
I don't have a picture, but are you using the same alternator? Or at least the same type?
If so, there should be the large Black wire that goes to the largest stud that's marked BAT nearby. Usually has a red insulator.
The Orange wire goes to the stud marked FLD and though the originals used orange insulators, I think most are now black instead.
The White w/black stripe wire goes to the stud marked STA.
If you are still using the original harness with it's large molded rubber wire strain relief, make sure to use the little metal tab/ring to attach it to one of the case studs. Some are marked GRD (for ground) but not all are. In my experience most of the time you attach it to one of them that is not marked, but is obviously the same function on the case.
If you do not have that stock harness any longer, make sure to run a small ground wire from one of those case studs over to one of the mounting screws for the voltage regulator.
Paul
If so, there should be the large Black wire that goes to the largest stud that's marked BAT nearby. Usually has a red insulator.
The Orange wire goes to the stud marked FLD and though the originals used orange insulators, I think most are now black instead.
The White w/black stripe wire goes to the stud marked STA.
If you are still using the original harness with it's large molded rubber wire strain relief, make sure to use the little metal tab/ring to attach it to one of the case studs. Some are marked GRD (for ground) but not all are. In my experience most of the time you attach it to one of them that is not marked, but is obviously the same function on the case.
If you do not have that stock harness any longer, make sure to run a small ground wire from one of those case studs over to one of the mounting screws for the voltage regulator.
Paul
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 883
Likes: 7
From: New-brunswick,Canada
I don't have a picture, but are you using the same alternator? Or at least the same type?
If so, there should be the large Black wire that goes to the largest stud that's marked BAT nearby. Usually has a red insulator.
The Orange wire goes to the stud marked FLD and though the originals used orange insulators, I think most are now black instead.
The White w/black stripe wire goes to the stud marked STA.
If you are still using the original harness with it's large molded rubber wire strain relief, make sure to use the little metal tab/ring to attach it to one of the case studs. Some are marked GRD (for ground) but not all are. In my experience most of the time you attach it to one of them that is not marked, but is obviously the same function on the case.
If you do not have that stock harness any longer, make sure to run a small ground wire from one of those case studs over to one of the mounting screws for the voltage regulator.
Paul
If so, there should be the large Black wire that goes to the largest stud that's marked BAT nearby. Usually has a red insulator.
The Orange wire goes to the stud marked FLD and though the originals used orange insulators, I think most are now black instead.
The White w/black stripe wire goes to the stud marked STA.
If you are still using the original harness with it's large molded rubber wire strain relief, make sure to use the little metal tab/ring to attach it to one of the case studs. Some are marked GRD (for ground) but not all are. In my experience most of the time you attach it to one of them that is not marked, but is obviously the same function on the case.
If you do not have that stock harness any longer, make sure to run a small ground wire from one of those case studs over to one of the mounting screws for the voltage regulator.
Paul
Same alternator. Only the white one is not plug but Its changing at 14v. Did the white one go there?
i plug the orange one on the white insulator. The positive from the selenoid on the red insulator
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 9,597
Likes: 1,172
From: San Jose, CA
If your truck has the full gauge package in the dash (means it has an ammeter instead of just a battery light) then the White wire is not needed for charging. It's only for the electric choke on the carburetor.
But yes, it goes to one of the studs if you still have an electric choke.
I never trust my memory anymore as to which one goes to black and which one goes to white, but since you say it's charging at 14v when running, then I'd say you have it correct and the remaining stud gets the White w/black wire.
Judging by the pics though, I would take the alternator off and wire-brush the studs to clean them up a bit for better performance.
By the way. What's the Red wire for?
Paul
But yes, it goes to one of the studs if you still have an electric choke.
I never trust my memory anymore as to which one goes to black and which one goes to white, but since you say it's charging at 14v when running, then I'd say you have it correct and the remaining stud gets the White w/black wire.
Judging by the pics though, I would take the alternator off and wire-brush the studs to clean them up a bit for better performance.
By the way. What's the Red wire for?
Paul
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 247
From: Stanley, VA
There are four wire in the harness, three are visible, the fourth "hidden".
Black goes to BAT
Orange goes to FLD
White/black trace goes to STA
The fourth "hidden" wire is the ground. It's the metal tab that connects the strain relief to the alternator. That one goes to GRN
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