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Besides the post / pin weather strip be good to push the door out a little to keep the door from rattling.
I got to say with good posts / pins, new weather strips and window seals a little peel & seal on the inside of the doors outer panel my truck has no rattles.
Most of the noise I get is from not having any type of carpet / padding or rubber mat & padding on the floor, can really tell when you hit a water puddle and wind noise.
The wind noise is from the top front of the doors window frames. There is a weather strip on the later truck that fits in there that is to stop this I just have not installed it yet.
I would like to see what the OP comes up on the door panels.
After he drives the truck for a bit he may want to rethink the arm rest.
I have wood ones someone made in place of the factory ones and I can tell you where they put the cut out to grab to pull close has a sharp edge and digs into your elbow when driving.
If all the clips are on the door panels they will not rattle either.
Dave ----
Post a spoiler tag next time, I haven't looked at mine yet.
But its fun to spoil some things lol.
Originally Posted by BigBlue2
Are you using a pex bushing? What kind of material are you using that you only get 7 months use out of it?
My original nylon bushing is shattered, but before it came apart I wrapped it a few time with black electrical tape. When the tape end came loose I contact cemented it back down. I've been like that for about a year now...and the black tape has held up to the abuse of the latch jaws very well so far. I wish I would have superglued the shattered pieces together before wrapping the tape. But hindsight is 20-20.
Not sure what material, they are just plain old replacement dorman bushings in the pack that states "GM/Ford" on it. I slice them length wise then I have to cut them down to make them shorter as they are too long to fit my striker. I believe they fail cause the clasp grabs on the cut or its the material they are using now. I remember the first time I did it I got about 4 years before it finally broke apart but it seems now I get about 6 or 7 months now. The door isn't out of alignment as the door closes great and opens great with no force needed. If I can get the washer off without destroying the threads on the striker itself then I need to figure out if I have to shorten the bushing down or if its supposed to be crushed down to lock the bushing in place.
I also might just hit up my parts and illustration guide and see if there is any NOS units available that I could compare bushing length to.
Not sure what material, they are just plain old replacement dorman bushings in the pack that states "GM/Ford" on it. I slice them length wise then I have to cut them down to make them shorter as they are too long to fit my striker. I believe they fail cause the clasp grabs on the cut or its the material they are using now. I remember the first time I did it I got about 4 years before it finally broke apart but it seems now I get about 6 or 7 months now. The door isn't out of alignment as the door closes great and opens great with no force needed. If I can get the washer off without destroying the threads on the striker itself then I need to figure out if I have to shorten the bushing down or if its supposed to be crushed down to lock the bushing in place.
I also might just hit up my parts and illustration guide and see if there is any NOS units available that I could compare bushing length to.
On length, I'd cut them so they just fit the length of the pin. It should roll on the pin but very little slop fore and aft once it's on. I would also glue the cut you make to fit the bushing on the pin after you get in on. Superglue might be good enough. Then wrap it with a couple layers of a good grade electrical tape. If the tape comes loose on the end glue it back down. I think you'll get a Lotta years out of your next repair.
On length, I'd cut them so they just fit the length of the pin. It should roll on the pin but very little slop fore and aft once it's on. I would also glue the cut you make to fit the bushing on the pin after you get in on. Superglue might be good enough. Then wrap it with a couple layers of a good grade electrical tape. If the tape comes loose on the end glue it back down. I think you'll get a Lotta years out of your next repair.
I might try that. I might also look up the OE part number for the striker and see if I can find a NOS one. A NOS one would last way longer I bet.
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