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I’m having a Dew-Eze bale bed put onto my 2020 F350 I ordered. It has the auxiliary cab heater. The hydraulic pump goes into the same location as one of the alternators so I will only be running one. Will my auxiliary cab heater still work or did I waste $200 on that option?
The Rapid Supplemental Heat draws 150A. It has 3 50A fuses supplying power to it. You may be able to run it, but you'll be maxing out your alternator and drawing from batteries when you use it I'd guess.
It might not if the heater still works, but rather how long the alternator lasts. Reason being, I THINK dual alternators don't simply rum simultaneously to generate more power, but rather alternately (pun intended!) so one is cooling down while the other is generating power.
It might not if the heater still works, but rather how long the alternator lasts. Reason being, I THINK dual alternators don't simply rum simultaneously to generate more power, but rather alternately (pun intended!) so one is cooling down while the other is generating power.
That may be the case during normal operation, but it's not possible while the rapid supplemental heat system is operating. With that system you get dual alternators, but they're not the same. One is a 240A the other is 157A. Obviously the 157A alternator wouldn't be capable of powering everything when the heater draws 150A(or at least close to it) alone.
The standard alternator setup on a Lariat to Platinum with the 6.7 but without any special packages(such as snowplow, supplemental heat, etc) requiring more power is a single 240A alternator. The Limited gets standard dual alternators, 175A and 157A.
Both alternators generate power at the same time, one would not keep up as stated. To the op why dont you use a trans driven pto? Basically maintenance free, the only bad thing is the pto is pricey. I up fit these trucks and the ONLY time i go with belts is when the truck was not ordered with the pto option. And.to be honest I will no longer do a belt driven hydraulic pump on a truck. Cj
I have tried to catch both alternators with clamp meters, they run the top larger first, only switch to the lower when the higher larger one gets too hot. I have the dual high output. Supplemental heaters. The OP is going to want a larger high output alternator on top, if he is loosing the lower one to this pump. I would suggest something in the 270 amp and up class would be best. That SERP belt is going to earn its keep. Check it often and keep a spare if running that hydronic pump a lot.
why not pump off the transmission, do you have the auxiliary port on it? Probably not an option if you already have the truck.
I asked about the PTO option when I ordered the truck. The guy doing the install, which is the top Dew-Eze dealer in the country, said that the PTO didn’t spin fast enough. Idk specifics but just going off his expertise. Also, this is a standard setup for these bale beds across all brands. The serpentine belt driven pump that is. I’m pretty sure the top alternator is the one that gets removed. The one more on the passenger side. Dew-Eze has a specific kit for these dual alternator trucks and they aren’t really new at this point so I trust they’ve done what needs to be done to make it work reliably. I just was wondering if that supplemental heater was going to work or not after the install.
That may be the case during normal operation, but it's not possible while the rapid supplemental heat system is operating. With that system you get dual alternators, but they're not the same. One is a 240A the other is 157A. Obviously the 157A alternator wouldn't be capable of powering everything when the heater draws 150A(or at least close to it) alone.
The standard alternator setup on a Lariat to Platinum with the 6.7 but without any special packages(such as snowplow, supplemental heat, etc) requiring more power is a single 240A alternator. The Limited gets standard dual alternators, 175A and 157A.
The lower alternator is the smaller one, and this is likely where they should be putting that pump. But there is not a lot of room down there. It’s far easier to find a much larger top alternator than it is the bottom one. You could easily switch out a top one on your own. The Serpentine belts are super fun, another thing you can do is put a slightly smaller pulley on the top alternator, this will increase its rpm relative to the engine, and produce more power.
hopefully your installer knows how to address these issues at time of install. I wouldn’t want less than a 300 amp alternator on a truck like this. But the upper 240 amp unit with an over drive pulley might work just fine. Really depends on cold starts and short runs needing faster charging up the batteries. For a reference, my 230 amp Leece Neville on my 2005(my upgrade) over the stock 140 amp unit showed a metered 170 amps on cold start up on high idle using the stock pulley. 1250 RPM was my high idle. It made a world of difference getting my batteries charged up far faster and even connected to trailer batteries, charged up faster.
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