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Look what I get to do.
Not sure exactly how to go about it being by myself (working alone) and I heard of some who cut the rivets but I really don’t want to go that route.
To My knowledge, no cutting rivets required on a 65 2wd. There are threads on here on how to do this with the radius arms in place and removed. My suggestions are to lube everything well in advance generously and, considering the poor quality of rubber replacements, go with urethane bushings.
No you dont have to cut the rivets to get them apart and replaced. You can go to your local ford dealer and get them. I have a 1966 2wd f250 and the part numbers for mine were c5tz 3b203 e and c5tz 3b203 d. These are brand new the date on the plastic bag they came in were 8-06-2018, so they are fresh new ford rubber. As I recall they were 8-10 bucks apiece. You could have Number Dummy verify the part number. The parts guy at ford said these were used all the way up to some van from the mid nineties.
To My knowledge, no cutting rivets required on a 65 2wd. There are threads on here on how to do this with the radius arms in place and removed. My suggestions are to lube everything well in advance generously and, considering the poor quality of rubber replacements, go with urethane bushings.
Originally Posted by Matt Bourgeois
No you dont have to cut the rivets to get them apart and replaced. You can go to your local ford dealer and get them. I have a 1966 2wd f250 and the part numbers for mine were c5tz 3b203 e and c5tz 3b203 d. These are brand new the date on the plastic bag they came in were 8-06-2018, so they are fresh new ford rubber. As I recall they were 8-10 bucks apiece. You could have Number Dummy verify the part number. The parts guy at ford said these were used all the way up to some van from the mid nineties.
Ok thanks and also for the P/N's.
Guess I didn't search good enough and I'll try again.
Raise and support front of truck by frame. Remove travel stops from i-beams so you can lower them enough to remove coil springs. Remove large control arm bolt and pull beams forward until you can replace bushings.
Might as well replace i-beam pivot bushings while you're at it. I cut out old rubber with a hole saw. Cut the sleeve with a hack saw. Smooth the hole and then drive in new pivot bushings.
Raise and support front of truck by frame. Remove travel stops from i-beams so you can lower them enough to remove coil springs. Remove large control arm bolt and pull beams forward until you can replace bushings.
Might as well replace i-beam pivot bushings while you're at it. I cut out old rubber with a hole saw. Cut the sleeve with a hack saw. Smooth the hole and then drive in new pivot bushings.
They also make poly bushings for the I beams that use the steel sleeve. You remove the center sleeve and rubber but leave the outer sleeve. Place the poly bushings in and press the center sleeve in.
They also make poly bushings for the I beams that use the steel sleeve. You remove the center sleeve and rubber but leave the outer sleeve. Place the poly bushings in and press the center sleeve in.
DSide completed.
Now the truck won’t bounce so much seeing the I-beam limit strap is actually doing it job and staying where it needs to be. Bushings were gone and the strap was outside the stop (new shocks help as well).
Need new bump stops as well.
NOTE: ‘65 F250 does not have a keeper for the spring at the top. Drop beam to get the spring out and make sure the top coil is in the right orientation in the cup.
1 1/8” socket on the bushing.
Had to do a little rigging for the PSide.
Could not get it to move into the bracket.
Had the same problem with the DSide but I had something to push against.
As 65Ford mentioned, raise by the chassis, I used a 4x4 the width of the front frame to include wheel blocks and stands and was able to lift entire front end and replace all the bushings for the front suspension. Suggest research whether to go with rubber or urethane bushings, I went with the later. In reassembling, for alignment purposes, torque according to spec's. If you can afford shocks suggest replace at this time.
Nice work, you will probably think youre driving a new truck after this, those original bushings were really shot. Looks like your cab mount bushings are getting bad too.
Raise and support front of truck by frame. Remove travel stops from i-beams so you can lower them enough to remove coil springs. Remove large control arm bolt and pull beams forward until you can replace bushings.
Might as well replace i-beam pivot bushings while you're at it. I cut out old rubber with a hole saw. Cut the sleeve with a hack saw. Smooth the hole and then drive in new pivot bushings.
Excellent advice. That's how I did mine. Also gives you a chance to wire brush the crud off of everything and spray it all black.
I'm late to the party here as it looks like you're almost done. Now would've been a good time to replace king pins if haven't already done so since all is apart. At least the new parts will make removal easier if/when you do them in the future.
Nice work, you will probably think youre driving a new truck after this, those original bushings were really shot. Looks like your cab mount bushings are getting bad too.
I wouldn’t know. Haven’t had it on the road yet from 2017 when I bought it for $250.00.
Sat under a Oak Tree for 15yrs and motor 1/2 apart.
getting there and thanks to all for the continued help.
Cab mounts are shot, yes. Old truck and hopefully I can get to them shortly, (good eye), I didn't even have time to look at those.
JB
