I was looking at them and no play.
99k on the OD bought form OOwner.
I am going to put tires on the truck and I’ll look/check again at that time.
Tired.
Good tip.
Thanks.

 

Thanks for this topic . I've been thinking about how to replace mine...Mine are almost as bad as yours were Rollbar. And I too didn't want to drill out the rivets

I too have just a couple of jacks to work with on the ground...I don't even have concrete pad to work on...a thick sheet of plywood brings my shop floor where ever I can drag it ha.

I'm thinking going rubber...softer and no squeek as poly can sometimes. Original ford parts is nice, I didn't know they could be had. Just ordered shocks, and working up to this. Oilboy had a good post about replacing his a few months ago. Both these posts have given me confidence. Thanks guys.

 

Bought my bushing at NAPA in 2017.
First time I did this as well and thanks to the crew here for the help.
I did use a ratchet strap on the PSide (2) to pull the arm back in once it was out of the bracket.
NOTE: I did use a ratchet strap to the bumper to help pull the arm out of the bracket (just lower it enough below the other etc.).
DSide I leaned against the garage and pushed and it popped in.
Note: Arm under pressure when pulling it out but doesn't move far toward the outside of the frame.
MAKE sure you put the big washers on the right way (one has a big hole, one a small and should go one way anyway).
I used WD-40 and sprayed as I did the job.
The old cotter pin took the longest to get out so I had to take a flat-head screwdriver and try to knock it out and it cut the loop end. So I worked at it and got one 1/2 of it out, then the other side of it came out-just work at it.
1 1/8" socket for the '65 nut.
11/16" for the limiter nut and 5/8" for the bolt head.
9/16" for the shock tower and I think it was 3/4" for the bottom of the shock bolt.
NOTE: Once the arm is in, just put a nut on the end (1/2 the bushing is already on the arm)(it's not going anywhere, but) and then lower to put the coil spring on, then jack it to where it is needed for the shock, THEN install the new outer bushing and nut 90ft.lbs and then I had to go just a 1/16 more to get the cotter hole lined up.
IF you don't do it this way, then you will have to do as I did on the PSide and push down on the arm to get the spring in (note the end of the spring rides into a groove molded in the top cup).
Double check before putting the tire on and your good to go.
P.S. I really like the shocks I got (Rock Auto), really helped tighten up the front/no bounce at all.
Just a side note besides DC/Mac's etc is that Rock Auto and O'Reilly's had most of my parts as I fix the truck mechanically.
Hope this helps.

 

Thanks Rollbar. This forum and you guys are so helpful.. I'll post when I get er done

 

Good choice on the shocks, I'm running the KYB's as well.

 

Yes recommended from some on this forum of the FBook forum.
Really helped the front-end.
Gonna get a set for the rear soon.
I like them and the cost was cheap at Rock Auto.

 

I replaced my Radius arm bushings. Made a good difference. No more clunking on rough roads..even the steering feels more stable. and I changed front shocks. Did one side yesterday afternoon and one today. I recruited help getting the arms back into the mount hole..tough alone for me. Happy with it behind me. Good confidence boost, one more thing checked complete on my fix list. I love this 65






Thanks for all the tips. I wouldn't have tackled this on my own without all the great info from you guys

 

Check your toe in!

 

Will do...if this message is for me.... what makes you suggest this ?! Is it the way the front bushing seems more squished than the rear bushing? I wondered about that, but since both sides were like this, I supposed that they would equalize after some driving.
Bought truck had been sitting for 8 years with 4 flat tires. The wear on the front tires was consistant even though tires old and flat.

 

Looking at the photo in post #22 appears to be a significant difference with the original bushings to the replacement which may account for a difference in alignment. Since I replaced all of the bushings in the front suspension I made sure the components were torqued to spec's and still required some minor adjustment using my cheap alignment tool.

 

OK.....I now see where I've maybe messed up Dave. I didn't torque the radial arm nuts. I cranked on them TIGHT. So I will loosen them and torq to 90 ft pounds...yes? should do this with weight off or on each tire when I do this?

And rdixiemiller, I think you made a good catch here. I measured the toe in with tires on ground. The difference between front and rear on tires and there is a 1/2" difference .....Towed OUT 1/2" in thew front!

So I'll torque first then check toe in again. If bushings too tight ..it might pull the toe out?? Anyhow I appreciate your picking up on this guys Thanks.

 

You want them toed in not out.

 

Yes.....in not out. I had to do some reading to make sure which...ha I've not changed them at all since getting truck

Thanks Christmas...so if they are still towed out after torqueing bushings....is correction done by splitting the difference and adjusting each tie rod end?

 

You need to adjust the tierod. I use a couple of 4' levels bungeed to the wheels about a third of the way up off the ground. Tape measure front and rear and adjust the tierod so the front has about 1/2" less than the rear.

 

With my front disc brake, I used 1976 values but I believe they are the same as earlier models?
Radius Arm to frame: 90 ft-lbs
Radius Arm at I-Beam: 240 ft-lbs** Suggest confirm seems a bit high??
Shocks: 22 ft-lbs.