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Backup light replacement (NOT JUST BULB)

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Old Mar 2, 2020 | 07:47 PM
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Backup light replacement (NOT JUST BULB)

Hey guys. Sorry for another post but I've spent the last 2 hours scouring FTE and the internet for a video/manual/instruction or anything to change the backup light housing. I was changing the bulbs and it kept turning off so while I was messing with it to find what was wrong the ground wire came out of the back so now I need to try and figure out how to replace the whole thing (which will also hopefully fix my original problem). Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2020 | 12:02 PM
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I'm going to assume that everyone is as confused as I . What exactly are you wanting to change out? the whole plug that the bulb goes into?

Just go to the wreckers , clip one out of a truck and soilder it on to yours, It doesn't have to be too complicated
 
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Old Mar 3, 2020 | 02:26 PM
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Yep just wondering if there was a video or something since I'm not that talented. If not I'll figure it out. Sorry to be confusing lol.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2020 | 12:13 AM
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I would bet that there is a pigtail for just that job.

The old catalog is the one you most likely want.

EDIT :

Use the index in the back to find the item you need and then search that page.

On the pages for the three cavity connectors look and see if this is right.
Ford # 1U2Z-14S411-DA Simple # WPT105
 
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File Type: pdf
18376 Pigtail Book 2016 Pt1.pdf (1.77 MB, 399 views)
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Pigtail part I OLD copy.pdf (2.41 MB, 14 views)
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Pigtail part II OLD copy.pdf (2.94 MB, 22 views)
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Old Mar 4, 2020 | 12:58 AM
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Awesome. Thanks I found just what I need at NAPA probably should've just started there. Now I can just plug it in with a couple of butt connectors and call it good. Sorry for all the confusion and wasted time. I appreciate the replies.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2020 | 01:27 AM
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I have both years of the pigtail catalogs saved on my computer for that odd time I need a part number.
If you look on Ebay or Amazon with the short number you have a good chance finding the part.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2020 | 02:56 AM
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Just to throw this out there in case someone comes across this in a search, both reverse lights were out in my 2006 F350 last year.

turns out the part the bulb plugs into was corroded in each one. Those parts themselves are replaceable- they unplug from the actual wiring harness. Put two new connectors in and everything worked

also put led reverse bulbs in; much better lighting

 
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Old Mar 4, 2020 | 10:30 AM
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If your are going to use butt connectors at the least make sure to get the shrink tube style ones, they can get pretty dirty up in there and it will corrode quick with that small gauge of wire

Good luck
 
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Old Mar 4, 2020 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 6point0
If your are going to use butt connectors at the least make sure to get the shrink tube style ones, they can get pretty dirty up in there and it will corrode quick with that small gauge of wire

Good luck
I guess the trucks have the void below the light too? I’m about to tackle that issue on the Excursion and fill that bottom area with expanding foam to keep the crud out of the rear of the tail lights. There’s no reason for that.

 
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Old Mar 4, 2020 | 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by SmackDaddy
I guess the trucks have the void below the light too? I’m about to tackle that issue on the Excursion and fill that bottom area with expanding foam to keep the crud out of the rear of the tail lights. There’s no reason for that.
If you live in an area where they use a lot of salt / calcium on the roads I would just be weary of the foam creating another crevice for dampness to get trapped. Similar to the rear fender wells where Ford thought it would be a great idea to add some caulk to the inside seam.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2020 | 03:18 PM
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Mastic lined heat shrink is the best way to go and if
you get the Ford pigtail kits that’s what they come with.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2020 | 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by bilter
If you live in an area where they use a lot of salt / calcium on the roads I would just be weary of the foam creating another crevice for dampness to get trapped. Similar to the rear fender wells where Ford thought it would be a great idea to add some caulk to the inside seam.
No salt here in south Texas, not cold enough. My frame has nearly zero rust.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2020 | 03:40 AM
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I've always had problems with LED because they don't draw enough current so corrosion stops them working much quicker, even a touch of dampness and they're dark.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2020 | 05:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Euroman
I've always had problems with LED because they don't draw enough current so corrosion stops them working much quicker, even a touch of dampness and they're dark.
Just about everything I own has LEDs on it including my boats. Cheap ones won’t last so either buy a few extra cheap ones or the better, more expensive.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2020 | 08:33 AM
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You're right, cheap or quality cost about the same in the end, but quality doesn't make the same problems. The entire house has LED, but not the vehicles, at least not yet.
 
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