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I like tools and in particular scanning tools. After looking around for some more advanced scanners for OBD1 I found a Snap On Mt2500 and a Snap On MT2400 locally at a reasonable price (Mt2500 for $150 and the MT2400 for $200 asking price). The MT2500 is missing the connector(s) for Ford (I think I can get them on eBay?). I know nothing about either tool other than watching some YouTube videos. Which tool would you prefer and why? What other options are out there?
Note that a 1987 does not output data.
Check the data link connector for its pins to see if it does.
Note the CP9190/9185 will also read all of the codes for OBD-1 & OBD-2.
Example of the CP9190 output for OBD1:
Example of the CP9190 output for OBD1, 1994 F53 460:
Thank you. I forgot about those. The Actron's have the advantage that I could use them on my other vehicles. I may just go for the MT2400 and an CP9185. That would be a good combination I can use on a variety of vehicles wouldn't it?
The CP9185 will work on about any make OBD1 or OBD2 from the 1980's or 1990's and some into the 2000's.
I do not know anything about the MT2400 but have seen some posting on here using there friends Snap-On scanners with out finding their problem.
All I currently have is a basic HD multimeter and the basic Inova code reader. I learned the limitation of the MM checking my O2 sensor. I'm also looking at some oscillosscopes.
I don't want to spend too much but trying to learn more to really test parts. In the long run good tools easily pay for themselves but since I'm not a pro it needs to be somewhat reasonable and justifiable. But I have an awesome wife that likes good tools just as much as I do.
Quick update. I am still looking for a code reader but in the meantime I got a Hantek 1008 scope. The reason for the scope was simply because I always wanted one and can use it also for other projects as well. So far I used it with the app for android which works reasonable well. Getting the supplied software from Hantek installed is a challenge though. The certificates for the drivers are outdated and Windows 10 will not install them (there are ways around it but they were too complicated for me and I have fairly decent computer knowledge). I was lucky getting an old windows 7 laptop from work though. Yesterday I managed to install the software and drivers and may have a chance to run some ignition tests this afternoon. Scopes are cool and I'm looking forward to learning how to use them.
I have an OTC Monitor 2000 from the 80's, but is supported until 1993 with the cartridge I have and a 1995 cartridge would be $15. It works on a 1995, and would even work on a later OBD1 250/350 but it adds a digit to the codes. However it has Ford Star scanner capability for those older models.. I think I gave $60 for it 10 years ago or so when I had a 1992 Ranger littered with codes
Got a chance to play around with the scope and took some screen shots checking secondary ignition. The square wave is from the ignition module. The yellow wave from the plug wire. Now I need some help understanding what this all means. First 4 pictures are from cylinder 2 but all cylinders are looking similar. The second set is from the coil wire to the distributor.
The truck idles rough and has high fuel consumption. Edit: forgot to mention the only code I get is 25 / knock sensor KOER.
In the bottom 4 displays the height of the yellow spikes show the resistance on each of the plug wires.
The same plug wires seems to keep changing their resistance. So I would think the fuel mix keeps changing in each cylinder.
If the same plug wire keep the same high spike then you think it was a bad plug wire or plug or the plug gap.
But this is not the case here.
Would a bad O2 sensor cause this behavior? Reason I am asking is a few weeks back I tested my O2 with a multimeter and replaced it. The readings where all over the place and frequently went negative. That was actually the reason I bought the scope to be able to run better tests. I may find time to check that tomorrow.
Could this be caused by something else like the distributor or a bad coil? When you look at the 3rd picture of Cyl 2 it looks like the cylinder was firing out of order. Like I said I'm new to this (and new a mechanic by trade) but it struck me as odd. I found the same pattern on other cylinders as well.
Edit: I forgot to mention that the scope was $74 on Amazon including the software and probes. If you get the software installed it is a very good deal. If you don't you are stuck with an Android app which seems to be good but you also really need to know what you are doing. The Hantke software has presets for testing which allowed me today to have a good reference point to start from.
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