When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I've recently pulled one of the pistons out of my 302 to replace broken rings. I've noticed that the other pistons have a lot of carbon buildup on them. I'd like to clean all of them off, and I've had someone reccomend to me that I hone out the cylinders while I have the engine apart.
What I am wondering: If I hone the cylinders will I have to get oversized rings, or does honing just clean off glaze from the cylinder walls?
Also, is it bad to clean varnish off of the connecting rod bearing surfaces? I read that you shouldn't clean off any varnish from the main bearing surfaces on the engine block, and I'm wondering if its the same for the connecting rods...
hey siphor, you were told right to hone the block, but first you should cut the ridge out with a ridge reamer, then hone. To answer your question no you will not need oversize pistons or rings it just cuts the glaze out. If you have never honed a block before I would suggest you find a bottle brush type hone they are alot easier to use. As for your second question Ive heard that you shouldn't clean off any varnish but for the price I've always just replaced the bearings
Yes, hone the cylinders and you shouldn't have to use oversized rings. Make sure you get a 45 degree crosshatch. The reason you do this is so the new rings seat properly.
I went ahead and pulled the pistons today, and the cylinders definitely need that cross-hatching. Do you think I should just replace the rings anyways even on the cylinders that have good compression?
If you have any ideas about cleaning off the carbon I'd appreciate that too, there is a LOT on them, I was trying some carb cleaner but it really isnt doing the job.
Yep, if you pulled the pistons, hone them out or they won`t seat proper and put new rings in, as for carbon get it all off and make sure you clean out the ring grooves, heck, for the price go a head and throw in bearings and an oil pump, (((MAKE SURE))) if you install new bearings to prelube them.
Not doubting your abilitys but my advice is to have an experienced hand help you if you`ve never done this before, I`m embarrassed to mention my first engine attempt in`78, put one of the main caps on backwards (OUCH)
Honing a cylinder in the vehicle is never a good idea, but if you gotta do it, get a Flex-Hone, aka dingle ball hone. You'll do less damage with one of those, and they're easy to use.
Cross-hatch should be between 30-45 degrees, but you'll probably have a hard time getting good results. Proper honing is tricky, and hard to do outside of a machine shop.
Good luck, anyway. And don't forget honing oil.
Alright, with a wide consesus of my freinds telling me to just pull the engine, I went ahead and did that. So now I'll be able to get the honing done easier.. when you say "Honing Oil" is there a specific kind of oil I should be using?
How far are you tearing down the engine? If you have the block stripped, run it down to your friendly neighborhood machine shop and have them stick a bore gauge in it to tell you the general condition of the bores, If you're good to go, they can hone it far better than you can. You can't match the performance of a $35,000 semi-automatic hone with a drill motor and elbow grease.
If it's just one hole, maybe they have a portable rigid hone that will work. It takes some practice to get good with one of those, so maybe a machinist can do it. Just a suggestion.
Honing oil is specifically for honing cylinders. It acts as a coolant, flushes debris from the stones and prevents chatter.
I don't know what flex hones use for oil, since I've never used one on an engine cylinder. Seems kinda weird to use it dry, so I imagine they gotta use something.